My search for a Chinese herbal medicine store perfume began a few months ago. I am Chinese-American and have been looking for something that would evoke that particular smell of roots, fruit peels and incense - an herbal scent that is so familiar to me and comforting, I could smell it in my dreams.
I went on Reddit and found a few recommendations.
Shennong - discontinued, expensive, and impossible to get. Something by Proad that I never found. And, Ching Shih by Marissa Zappas. I purchased a sample from a decanter and tried it out for two months.
Firstly: This is that TCM store I was looking for. There are powdery roots, fragrant spices (probably clove), smoky incense - very similar to the frankincense note in
L'orpheline - and a touch of sweetness. It is centered around a surprisingly tart and metallic osmanthus.
There are no oranges but I was reminded on first sniff of a tart orange cooked with spices.
The spicy-herbal aspect of this perfume is most apparent if you dab it, not spray it. It is heavier and deeper this way. I get some camphor from it too. This is what I prefer.
If you spray the perfume, the lighter floral scent of osmanthus becomes more apparent, floating out over the spices, and the herbal scent withdraws into the background. It is prettier and easier to handle this way.
There is one additional element which might polarize some. It's the gunpowder note, which can either be exciting and smoky or screechy, metallic, and sour. Be careful of this before buying a full bottle, always sample first.
Additionally, the color of this scent experience is orange and deep brown. Not a safe blind buy, not something everyone will like. But gorgeous for people looking for a deep sensory experience. Described by Perfume Room podcast host Emma Vernon as "so sexy," described by my mom as "beautiful and sophisticated," and described by me as "the ultimate pirate scent." A scent for a dangerous woman to wear!
Unfortunately, this perfume is overly expensive. The price is set at almost 200 USD for 50 mL, which is quite high.
Myrrh
Osmanthus
Gun powder
Incense material
Iris
Spices
Misericorde
Noturfave
Cassrdgwy
DLou
ElAttarine
Can777
