Sleth

As a JPG fan, I had to jump in blindly once again. And just like with the others, here comes my review.

After a week with the fragrance, I still don’t know what to make of it. The OG Elixier is one of my favorites in winter; I even have a backup bottle. I don’t think that will be the case with the new Elixier Absolu; I don’t even know if I will keep the scent.

If you expect something louder, sweeter, and more intense than the Elixier: forget it. It goes completely in the opposite direction.

I would describe the scent as follows: 3 spritzes of Scandal pour Homme Absolu for the plum (Mirabelle is also a type of plum), 2 spritzes of Le Mâle Le Parfum for the lavender, and 1 spritz of Le Mâle Elixir for a subtle Tonka sweetness in the background. But each of these fragrances does its specific point better; in Elixier Absolu, it feels like a bit of everything, but nothing really stands out. It’s more tamed, where I expect JPG to hit hard in the face :D

Additionally, I noticed that the plum comes out much better on clothing; on the skin, I don’t perceive it at all, which makes the scent completely different. Skin is more of an Elixier & Le Parfum mix, while clothing is a Scandal Absolu & Le Parfum mix.

Now, as someone who owns all JPG fragrances, I ask myself: What do I want with Elixier Absolu? It’s the tamer, quieter version of the OG with fruit. If in doubt, I could also layer and probably achieve a similar result.

On its own, it’s not a bad scent, but it feels very redundant if you already have almost all JPGs (or at least the three mentioned), as the facets of Elixier Absolu are represented there.

Therefore, the release is certainly not a bad one, but personally, I find it disappointing.
If the regular Elixier is too much for you, buy the Elixier Absolu; if the regular Elixier is good for you (and you’re looking for something stronger), skip the Elixier Absolu.

I have been really into perfume for just over a year now, to the point that I call it a "hobby" or passion. This also coincides with my activity on this platform here. Today, I finally did it. I filled in the "Signature Scent" section on my profile page.

And as you can probably guess, it has become "Gaultier² (2022) | Jean Paul Gaultier." Why? Let me explain! In the meantime, a steadily growing number of fragrances have found their way into my collection. But I keep reaching for Gaultier2. It works every time. Many fragrances remind me, in whole or in parts, of other scents. I have never smelled Gaultier2 anywhere else; the scent is unique to me (unfortunately, I don't know the original; I don't need to since I like this one just as it is).

It is wearable everywhere and at any time, not too loud, not too quiet, and it doesn't clash. In short, it's an "always-on" scent when you can't decide, don't want to think, or don't feel like anything else; suitable for any time of day or year.

However, I can't really describe the scent. For me, it feels more like a composition rather than individual notes that I perceive. A sweet floral gentle creaminess that wraps around you cleanly. Linear, without significant changes over time. I can really smell the scent for a long time, even on my clothes the next day. In the first few hours, it is a bit louder, but not a beast. After that, it surrounds you gently. And actually, I don't like floral scents at all, but here they are perfectly composed. I just feel good with it when I wear it.

The only thing that bothers me: It is (more or less) a limited edition and only available directly from JPG, which of course triggers FOMO. I already have a backup bottle in stock, but I think the tendency is towards getting another bottle if I can find it at a good price here in the souk. The aging process from sitting around does it quite well. My first usable bottle is from spring '23 and has matured nicely by now.

I am curious to see if I will get to sniff more scents like this during my fragrance discovery journey. Because many are great, but only a few are truly brilliant.

The third JPG release this quarter; I'm going to be broke :D

Scandal pour Homme and Scandal pour Homme Le Parfum are both in my closet, so of course I had to get the new one as well. I prefer the OG of the first two, as it is simply a bit fresher, more on point. The development in Le Parfum didn’t add much value for me. Unfortunately.

I was all the more excited about the new Absolu. The notes sounded definitely intriguing. And upon spraying it, a wide grin appeared on my face: “I know what you did there, JPG!” I thought to myself.

The Mirabelle opens very boozy and reminds me of liqueurs from former Yugoslavia. Slivovic, Krucovaz, Julischka? Something from that. Or all of it together. This, in turn, reminds me a lot of Kismet Angel aka "Angels' Share | Kilian", just without the apple/cinnamon theme.

The fresh, clean undertone along with chestnut and sweetness reminds me on the other hand of Stronger With You, especially Emporio Armani - Stronger With You Absolutely due to the boozy note.

So it wouldn’t surprise me if, due to their successes, JPG has now looked towards SWY X Angel's Share for inspiration. The original Scandal DNA, that is sweet caramel-toffee, is hardly present anymore. Good for those who didn’t like it, bad for those who expected it prominently. In fact, Absolu is surprisingly "not sweet" (especially compared to the two predecessors). Fruity, yes, boozy, yes, but sweet? Only minimally sweet. Just subtly. Even less than in Le Parfum for my nose and rather fruity-floral with honey sweetness instead of pure caramel/toffee sweetness.

In the middle phase until the end, the fragrance becomes creamier. Probably due to the sandalwood/patchouli combo. The boozy note fades a bit, but remains more pronounced than in SWY; it continues to be fruity-fresh clean, subtly sweet, but in terms of sweetness and earthiness, it doesn’t reach the SWY A.

In terms of longevity, I would rate it similarly, slightly behind SWY A. Easily 6-8 hours, even longer on clothing. For the first 2-3 hours, it has good projection. It’s a bit of a shame, as one would have hoped for a bit more from the "Parfum Concentre," as JPG calls it.

And now the most important part: I like it a lot, of course one could say here: JPG is just adapting big hype fragrances (lines) and making them his own. But once again I say: Better well stolen (inspired) than poorly done oneself. I'm glad I ordered the 150ML right away; I will definitely rock this fragrance. Because yes: I actually like it a lot and it is for me a slightly fresher version of SWY, as it has a fruitier boozy note instead of rum. SWY feels a bit darker, more grounded, more mature. Absolu is more open, fruitier, lighter. Due to this different presence, it stands out a bit less than SWY, which is also reflected in the perceivability of the fragrance (and the longevity). Absolu lacks a bit of the deeper, darker fullness that SWY has. On the other hand, it offers a "summery" version of SWY A.

For me, it has everything for a mainstream hit. Connoisseurs may complain that it is too similar to SWY A and thus not very innovative, and that one wouldn’t recognize it as Scandal because it doesn’t remind of the two predecessors. I don’t care. Meanwhile, I’m celebrating a new fruity boozy fragrance that can also be worn in spring/autumn and summer evenings. Because I don’t really see SWY there. However, the two women in the house were both unanimously more convinced by SWY A. Nothing you can do about that as a man.

A new year, a new Le Male flanker.
For me as a JPG (Bisch) fanboy, that's not bad news, as my fan heart jumps a little higher with joy. I just love JPG, let me be!

Currently, the fragrance is still relatively hard to get, as it is not available through the German JPG website or German online/offline perfumeries. And although I have seen some video and text reviews from mostly English-speaking critics in the meantime, which have all been rather mixed, I thought to myself, "Oh come on, what the heck, I'll just order it quickly from Italy and test it myself."

Said and done, and to give a little preview: I'm glad I did. Because no review has yet captured the scent for me as I perceive the new Le Male Lover. And we will get to that now.

Right when I sprayed it, it shot through my mind: "Huh? You know this scent? I wore it a lot in winter?!" Confused, I tried to connect the smell with a fragrance from my collection. And then it clicked: "Invictus Victory Elixir | Paco Rabanne"! The opening and the middle remind me of a slightly fresher version of Rabanne's Victory Elixir. The same vanilla/coconut note that reminds me of some vanilla-scented candles. For me, it's incredibly great, just a bit fresher than the "original." If you don't know the Rabanne scent: Cool Water Intense also goes in this direction, but the Rabanne scent is much closer than the Cool Water, as it has more vanilla than coconut.

In the middle to dry down, my nose also picks up a bit of "1 Million Parfum | Paco Rabanne," fruity bubblegum sweetness with a slight peppery freshness that smells minimally minty. Great combo.

Imagine Mentos. A new flavor of Mentos: Vanilla Coconut Mentos. And they consist of 3/6 vanilla-coconut, 2/6 are the old classic fruit Mentos, and 1/6 are the classic mint Mentos. And voila: Le Male Lover Mentos is created.

I like it, because I really enjoy both 1M Parfum and Victory Elixir and consider them the best of their respective (commercially available) lines.

But Rabanne doesn't seem to fare well in general, judging by comments and reviews; I just wonder how the fragrances manage to be so mainstream when no one likes them; but that's another topic. After I had sampled the V Elixir, I immediately had to get a bottle. I find the vanilla note in it very great, and even my wife, who is really the number one critic when it comes to fragrances, approved of the scent because it reminds her of scented massage candles for adult use and thus associates something pleasant with it. What more could a man want :D

But back to Le Male Lover: Actually, this is not surprising at all, because Rabanne and JPG share some of the same perfumers with Raynaud and Bisch. So I simply claim that 1M was created with Le Male as a model, Bisch then refined 1M Elixir into Le Male Elixir, and now finally found "inspirations" in Victory Elixir and mixed it with his 1M Parfum into the new Le Male Lover. Do you believe this story is true? On the other hand, it could also...

While everything from Rabanne comes across as "coarser," the JPG fragrances seem a bit finer and more balanced to me. The only downside is: Rabanne seems to be setting the trend now (or the perfumers are experimenting), and JPG picks up the ideas and refines them. Of course, mass-appeal DNA is its great-grandfather, but: not very innovative.

On the other hand: Le Male Lover replaces two Rabanne perfumes (Victory Elixir and 1M Parfum) for me in one fell swoop. Because honestly, I would prefer to wear Le Male Lover over either of the two, as it simply comes across as more interesting and refined, not so youthful and in-your-face.

I see Le Male Lover in spring/fall and possibly still in winter, rather than in summer. For summer, then only in the evenings/nights, during the day the scent might be too heavy/sweet even though it radiates a bit of tropical vibes. Longevity for me is more than okay with 6+ hours for the price of 85,- (including shipping) for 125ml, and it lasts significantly longer on clothing. In the first hours, it also has good projection (about 2-3 hours). Here, the two Rabannes unfortunately have the edge, but they are also significantly sweeter and less fresh. So it's somewhat understandable.

Did JPG do themselves a favor with the packaging and presentation? Because it rather reminds me of a blue, fresh aquatic; and in my opinion, you get 0.0% of that here, as the scent is vanilla/coconut/fruity sweet and only offers minimal freshness through the mint. I believe a different branding like Le Beau (tropical green) would have suited it better. Although the original Le Male is already green (and Aviator) and would probably have raised false expectations again... And the name itself is somehow... difficult? If someone were to ask me what I'm wearing, I find the answer with that name somehow "unintentionally funny." Especially since "Lover" also suggests that one loves Le Male and it might be a homage/reissue to the OG; which it definitely is not. Le Male Tropical, Le Male Springbreak or something along those lines would have been more sensible names. For marketing, this time it's a flat 6, fail, missing the point.

To sum up: Le Male Lover is for me a great spring/fall scent and is indeed the link between Elixir (winter) and Le Beau Paradise Garden (summer). Not innovative at all, but for me the better version of the two originals from Rabanne. Unfortunately, Le Male Lover has little Le Male DNA (except for minimal peppery mint subtly in the background of the vanilla/coconut/fruity bubblegum sweetness) and rather reminds me of a very good Rabanne scent. If you want Le Male, you will be disappointed; if you want a good, mass-appeal scent: Cheers Le Male Lover.

One thing is as certain for me as Amen in church: I need at least 1-2 bunker bottles of this limited edition. I would be quite sad if it ever runs out and is no longer available, and I haven't said that about InTheNavy, Aviator, and OnBoard. However, Le Male Lover is also not an Eau Fraiche. Those expecting that will also be disappointed. But for anyone wanting a "Best Of" Rabanne for spring/fall from the house of JPG: You are in the right place. Puig won't care anyway, they own both :D And I'm just happy that I like a scent, innovation or not, because as the saying goes: Better well stolen than poorly made yourself.

Since Le Mâle Le Parfum led me here at the end of 2022 and I really dove into the world of perfume, JPG has held a special place in my heart.

It's simply the brand I like the most; we can vibe together. Certainly, there have been a few mediocre releases (OnBoard, Aviator) that I picked up due to my new hobby, but they were just as quickly discontinued here in the souk.

It's rather rare for me to dislike a fragrance from JPG. This happened with Le Mâle Pride Edition and unfortunately also with "Le Beau Le Parfum | Jean Paul Gaultier," which brings me to this review.

I really like the classic Le Beau; it's a simple coconut scent, but that's exactly what I love about it. I was really looking forward to Le Parfum, but then I had to realize that I don't like pineapple in perfumes at all. Headache potential. So, unfortunately, Le Parfum had to go to the souk.

I was all the more curious about the new "Le Beau Paradise Garden | Jean Paul Gaultier," where thankfully (Eureka!) the pineapple is absent and instead a fig note comes into play.

And this fruity, sweet fig accompanies you from the opening to the end, even though it diminishes a bit over time. From the middle, the salty sea notes come through a bit more, just like the creamy coconut. The scent doesn't change much until the end.

Mint, as in many Le Mâles, I don't actually perceive here as such, nor do I notice any spiciness from the ginger. What I do perceive is something fresh and "ethereal," which "opens" the nose and cools a bit. I suspect it's one of these two notes (or both in combination). This is, for me, after a brief opening where the freshness comes out a bit more, just "there," subtle in the background, and hardly noticeable unless I take a deep sniff of the fragrance. So no worries, the freshness is not exaggerated here.

I describe it as Le Parfum without pineapple, but with fig and a bit of salty sea breeze in the background, still nestled on coconut. Not quite as sweet as Le Parfum, as the fig also brings a certain tartness, which captures the sweetness well, especially with the counteracting freshness. It's simply a fruity-fresh sweet, sour-salty creamy fig/coconut scent. Exotic, playful, just what I would expect from a Le Beau as a summer fragrance. I like it extremely well, and after the disappointing EDP, it is finally the upgrade to the original EDT that I had hoped for with the EDP.

Just like Le Parfum was an EDP, so is Paradise Garden. I tested it on the first day in the morning on a test strip and left it in the study. The whole apartment smelled of it in the evening when we came home!
My wife asked, "Do we have any fruit somewhere that's starting to rot?" At first, I couldn't place the smell until it hit me like a ton of bricks: that was Paradise Garden filling the room! And even though my wife's description might sound negative, the idea of sweet, juicy fruit that is starting to ferment slightly and thus drifts into the sour is not such a wrong association to describe the fig note.

The test strip still smelled the next morning, and not just a little, but really intensely! On the skin, I also perceive it for 12+ hours, with very good sillage in the first 3-4 hours. That's quite impressive for a summer fragrance, in my opinion, as the classic EDT Le Beau is significantly inferior.

Paradise Garden is the best Le Beau for me, and I am seriously considering whether the EDT will even be used anymore. Unless it's 40°C at the beach for swimming, I honestly wouldn't know when I would reach for the EDT, because in almost all other situations where the sun shines, Paradise Garden fits just as well. Plus, it fits not only during the day in summer but also at night, where I don't see the EDT as much. The Le Parfum, on the other hand, would never have been wearable for me during the day in summer and would have been a dedicated evening scent. Paradise Garden now unites day and night for me.

For me, a successful release and the summer perfume of 2024 and a strong upgrade to the EDT! My inner "JPG-Bisch-Fanboy" is satisfied; now we just need summer. There's always something.