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Ghassan90
A step up..even in luxury
Crazy! i always thought there was no way to better thr DNA of the original Reflection Man since it’s a great smell, easy to pull off and loved by everyone around. But when I got my hands on Reflection 45, I realized how delusional I was..RF45 has become more than a fragrance to me, it’s a personal statement, a signature that marks my presence even after I’ve left the room. This aromatic masterpiece with an outstanding 45% concentration of perfume’ oil, creata a whirlwind of captivating scents. It starts off bold and spicy, softens into a heart of textured florals, and lands of deeply resonant base that’s both grounding and mystic on my skin. What sets it apart for me though, is its performance. It’s as potent as it is enduring - a single spray echoes throughout the day, drawing attention and leaving a trail of intrigue. It doesn’t just linger, it dominates the space, becoming an integral part of my identity. Reflection 45 isn’t merely a fragrance I wear, it’s an expression of who I am - bold, sophisticated, and unforgettable.
Myrtillajus
Stunning
“You go under the green lime trees on the promenade.
Lime trees smell good on June evenings!
The air so sweet, it makes you close your eyes"
These words by Rimbaud, in their apparent simplicity, perfectly describe what this fragrance is: the term I would give it is ecstatic.
Linden flowers’ aromahave refers to simple things, to passing by while walking and always being surprised by the smell of its flowers, by the heart shape of its leaves, and, for a moment, thinking about how beautiful nature is, thinking how beautiful the things are that we often take for granted.
Tilia is a wonderful fragrance, with lime tree in all its parts, even the sweet and honeyed one, sustained by jasmine, heliotrope and woody notes that make it an elegant and delicate symphony.
Stunning, to always wear, it never gets boring, just like the aroma of the lime tree flowers.
Exceptional performances.
It makes me go into ecstasy and causes a feeling of extreme well-being in me, just like Monet's “The Water Lilies”.
Lime trees smell good on June evenings!
The air so sweet, it makes you close your eyes"
These words by Rimbaud, in their apparent simplicity, perfectly describe what this fragrance is: the term I would give it is ecstatic.
Linden flowers’ aromahave refers to simple things, to passing by while walking and always being surprised by the smell of its flowers, by the heart shape of its leaves, and, for a moment, thinking about how beautiful nature is, thinking how beautiful the things are that we often take for granted.
Tilia is a wonderful fragrance, with lime tree in all its parts, even the sweet and honeyed one, sustained by jasmine, heliotrope and woody notes that make it an elegant and delicate symphony.
Stunning, to always wear, it never gets boring, just like the aroma of the lime tree flowers.
Exceptional performances.
It makes me go into ecstasy and causes a feeling of extreme well-being in me, just like Monet's “The Water Lilies”.
Kokokoko
Signature Scent
This scent is warm and slightly sweet and perfect as an everyday soft delicious scent. My go to scent is either a vanilla or a sweeter floral, but I’ve been wanting to try out scents that are a little less sweet and a little more grown up and this fits that perfectly. It’s feminine and comforting and it stays on for about half a work shift before starting to fade for me. I am not great at describing scents, but I just want to say that I have bought literally 5 of these to stock up because I am afraid I won’t be able to match its simple perfection once it’s limited edition run ends.
A Love-Hate Relationship
Ok, hear me out..this is a fragrance that you’d love after you hate it for a long time. I mean, no fragrance got me confused the way Kalan did.
To start with, I get why people get so polarized about Kalan, I mean that opening is the absolute worst I have ever smelled but wait for it..
I got a 10 ml sample that I almost used it all trying to understand Kalan’s DNA and I didn’t like it so I gave up on it and threw the sample into the drawer I almost never open.
Months later, on a cold December night, while I was cleaning the same drawer, I decided to empty the sample and I sprayed what’s left of it before going to bed (a weird habit of mine) and man, I was so lucky to understand the DNA with the last sprays I had left. Next morning, I woke up to an amazing smell that I have never ever smelled anything like before.
I was so dazzled by the uniqueness of Kalan’s scent, the blood orange and piercing black pepper are pushed back and are replaced by the beautiful orange blossom and a hint of lavender with some shy notes of wood and oak-moss but somehow it’s more than that, there is this alluring note that I don’t know what it is but it’s breathtaking (some people describe it as solar note but don’t know how accurate that description is)
Of course, I ordered a full bottle on the same day to add to my 30+ full bottle niche fragrances collection but the story doesn’t end here. I decided to wear it in December (even though it stroke me as a summer scent) and man, I got compliments like no other fragrance EVER got me. It radiates off my skin like magic and the sillage is way better than when you try to smell it up close.
To end this very long review, don’t give up on Kalan, give it time and spray it every now and then to test it, and when you get its DNA, start wearing it and you will smell like no other man out there!
To start with, I get why people get so polarized about Kalan, I mean that opening is the absolute worst I have ever smelled but wait for it..
I got a 10 ml sample that I almost used it all trying to understand Kalan’s DNA and I didn’t like it so I gave up on it and threw the sample into the drawer I almost never open.
Months later, on a cold December night, while I was cleaning the same drawer, I decided to empty the sample and I sprayed what’s left of it before going to bed (a weird habit of mine) and man, I was so lucky to understand the DNA with the last sprays I had left. Next morning, I woke up to an amazing smell that I have never ever smelled anything like before.
I was so dazzled by the uniqueness of Kalan’s scent, the blood orange and piercing black pepper are pushed back and are replaced by the beautiful orange blossom and a hint of lavender with some shy notes of wood and oak-moss but somehow it’s more than that, there is this alluring note that I don’t know what it is but it’s breathtaking (some people describe it as solar note but don’t know how accurate that description is)
Of course, I ordered a full bottle on the same day to add to my 30+ full bottle niche fragrances collection but the story doesn’t end here. I decided to wear it in December (even though it stroke me as a summer scent) and man, I got compliments like no other fragrance EVER got me. It radiates off my skin like magic and the sillage is way better than when you try to smell it up close.
To end this very long review, don’t give up on Kalan, give it time and spray it every now and then to test it, and when you get its DNA, start wearing it and you will smell like no other man out there!
Beardy
Tigerlily by Suzy Le Helley
Writing stream-of-consciousness:
Opening blast highly reminiscent of the aldehydes employed in Minneapolis 5.3 by Spyros Drosopoulous. This, however, quickly calms down and transitions into a metallic, almost grape / blackberry like accord, further smoothed out by an underlying violet. People are referencing the salmon pink at the bottom of the bottle; however, I see almost more fuchsia as opposed to magenta. This is a bit more transparent than 5.3, but this does indisputably reference detergent/fabric softener. This is metallic, tongue tickling aldehydes that verge on the tuning-fork-to-the-skull effect, but really calm themselves down to a background presence within a reasonable amount of time - the persistence of the effervescence seems quite astonishing and is quite enjoyable (the same sort of happy feeling I get with Cristalle Eau Verte) - personal preference may vary.
The overall fragrance now 20 or so minutes in wears relatively moist, as opposed to say the chalky dry down of No 5 L’eau. Unlike L’eau though, this is not aggravating my sinuses regardless of me placing my nose close to the skin or retaining distance from my arm. The detergent association is inescapable, but this is not dusty - quite fresh, uplifting, and less (imo) crass compared to the more recent MFKs.
This smells “icy” without being “cold”. Hence I believe the references to No. 22. Perhaps a bit of bubblegum too - that pink rose bubblegum feeling that FilipMurray references below reminding us of CDG Concrete - nothing too juvenile. My wife commented on a slight smokiness in the background, in our opinion attributed to the frankincense - that sort of cool, smoky, grey feeling to it. There is no watermelon in this, but I do get that sort of proto-aquatic fruity/salty freshness in the dry down akin to Aramis’ New West for Him (vintage, not that abomination Gentleman’s Collection version).
The fragrance is perhaps traveling down a linear path, but there are a few swerves here and there - the fragrance feels fluid instead of static. It retains interest - I keep wanting to discern the scent subtleties. The deep dry-down brining incensed sandalwood rubbed over with a vanilla balm - not sweet, not different, just a continual smoothing of the opening.
This reminds me more of the quality/pace of the brand with Eau De Magnolia, say as opposed to earlier produced Iris Poudre - make of that what you will.
This makes me happy.
Owning Lys Mediteranee (my wedding fragrance and first Malle), Bois d’Orage, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Cologne Indelibe, and Eau De Magnolia, I can genuinely see myself reaching for my wallet for this far sooner than for either Rose & Cuir or Heaven Can Wait.
I think a lot of the contempt for this fragrance is due to Malle retiring and this being a collaboration that “appears” more low-browed compared to Dries Van Noten and Alber Elbaz - I believe wholeheartedly if this had a black label marked with Suzy Le Helley’s name and was given a conventional title (let’s randomly steal “Tigerlily” from Natalie Merchant’s debut solo album) this would be less attacked and more appreciated for what it is.
In fact, it’s a crime that Suzy doesn’t get her name plastered on this - just as Bruno for Dries and Dominique for Superstitious . For her first all-on-her own fragrance? Bravo!
Opening blast highly reminiscent of the aldehydes employed in Minneapolis 5.3 by Spyros Drosopoulous. This, however, quickly calms down and transitions into a metallic, almost grape / blackberry like accord, further smoothed out by an underlying violet. People are referencing the salmon pink at the bottom of the bottle; however, I see almost more fuchsia as opposed to magenta. This is a bit more transparent than 5.3, but this does indisputably reference detergent/fabric softener. This is metallic, tongue tickling aldehydes that verge on the tuning-fork-to-the-skull effect, but really calm themselves down to a background presence within a reasonable amount of time - the persistence of the effervescence seems quite astonishing and is quite enjoyable (the same sort of happy feeling I get with Cristalle Eau Verte) - personal preference may vary.
The overall fragrance now 20 or so minutes in wears relatively moist, as opposed to say the chalky dry down of No 5 L’eau. Unlike L’eau though, this is not aggravating my sinuses regardless of me placing my nose close to the skin or retaining distance from my arm. The detergent association is inescapable, but this is not dusty - quite fresh, uplifting, and less (imo) crass compared to the more recent MFKs.
This smells “icy” without being “cold”. Hence I believe the references to No. 22. Perhaps a bit of bubblegum too - that pink rose bubblegum feeling that FilipMurray references below reminding us of CDG Concrete - nothing too juvenile. My wife commented on a slight smokiness in the background, in our opinion attributed to the frankincense - that sort of cool, smoky, grey feeling to it. There is no watermelon in this, but I do get that sort of proto-aquatic fruity/salty freshness in the dry down akin to Aramis’ New West for Him (vintage, not that abomination Gentleman’s Collection version).
The fragrance is perhaps traveling down a linear path, but there are a few swerves here and there - the fragrance feels fluid instead of static. It retains interest - I keep wanting to discern the scent subtleties. The deep dry-down brining incensed sandalwood rubbed over with a vanilla balm - not sweet, not different, just a continual smoothing of the opening.
This reminds me more of the quality/pace of the brand with Eau De Magnolia, say as opposed to earlier produced Iris Poudre - make of that what you will.
This makes me happy.
Owning Lys Mediteranee (my wedding fragrance and first Malle), Bois d’Orage, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Cologne Indelibe, and Eau De Magnolia, I can genuinely see myself reaching for my wallet for this far sooner than for either Rose & Cuir or Heaven Can Wait.
I think a lot of the contempt for this fragrance is due to Malle retiring and this being a collaboration that “appears” more low-browed compared to Dries Van Noten and Alber Elbaz - I believe wholeheartedly if this had a black label marked with Suzy Le Helley’s name and was given a conventional title (let’s randomly steal “Tigerlily” from Natalie Merchant’s debut solo album) this would be less attacked and more appreciated for what it is.
In fact, it’s a crime that Suzy doesn’t get her name plastered on this - just as Bruno for Dries and Dominique for Superstitious . For her first all-on-her own fragrance? Bravo!
FilipMurrayPerfect
This perfume is very emotional for me.
It's beautiful, clean, and fresh, yet somehow slightly dirty from floral notes. It's airy, long-lasting, and has excellent projection.
Aldehydes, musk, peach, orange blossom, sandalwood, and a hint of frankincense. Like the most beautiful and potent fabric softener. Sounds simple - but it's not.
It partly reminds me of Superstitious because of the aldehydes, but they are still completely different. Acne Studios is not sour, it's much easier to wear... The drydown reminds me of CDG - Concrete, probably because of the sandalwood...
Perfection!
After the sad news that Frederic is leaving the brand - I can say that he left EDPFM with style. I already see this one in my top 10.
It's beautiful, clean, and fresh, yet somehow slightly dirty from floral notes. It's airy, long-lasting, and has excellent projection.
Aldehydes, musk, peach, orange blossom, sandalwood, and a hint of frankincense. Like the most beautiful and potent fabric softener. Sounds simple - but it's not.
It partly reminds me of Superstitious because of the aldehydes, but they are still completely different. Acne Studios is not sour, it's much easier to wear... The drydown reminds me of CDG - Concrete, probably because of the sandalwood...
Perfection!
After the sad news that Frederic is leaving the brand - I can say that he left EDPFM with style. I already see this one in my top 10.
Mlleghoul
a Chuck Tingle eucalyptus
Koala from Zoologist is an aromatic-green-soapy incense-balsamic black tea-geranium sandalwood cologne with eucalyptus and pine. It’s dapper somehow, but the ironic dapper of a 25-year-old in 2013 with a handlebar mustache and a pork pie hat. It’s the refreshing, relaxing scent of a spa, but these dapper, ironic hipsters run the entire spa. And I don’t even know if I want to call it irony or absurdity or even farcical, but after a while, it doubles back on itself, and it’s almost painfully earnest, it’s got a genuine “love is real and I was pounded in the butt by my sentient spa experience” Chuck Tingle title vibe. I don’t know what that means. I’m all over the place for what is probably a very approachable and wearable perfume. That’s kind of wild, that I have no problem describing the weirdies, but the normies are the ones that give me pause. Anyway, I think this is both a sincere and sardonic eucalyptus scent. That’s my final word on it.
real doll uncanny valley vibes
I know better than this, but I purchased a bottle of Fantomas from Nasomatto without having sampled it first, and I'm surprised to say...I actually rather enjoy it? It reminds me of ELdO's Ghost In The Shell, that bit of speculative lactonic peach, but I then realized what I was smelling in Fantomas was more along the lines of those Japanese milky honeydew melon hard candies. There's also a bit of sterile, plastic-y musk and digitally-rendered powdery porcelain heliotrope, and the more I sniff my wrist, the more I am convinced that this creamy floral/vinyl musk is what the uncanny valley of a really expensive sex doll smells like. I've not smelled any sex dolls, either of the budget or the big-spender variety, but I have got a big imagination, and I'm pretty sure I know what I know. Anyway, I like it!
Cris80
Horses, desert and palace
The opening is a veritable animalistic fragrance, although to me it is more reminiscent of a herd of horses running on heated sand, iris in the initial phase does not have any powdery, lipstick-like overtones, but in a delicate way sweetens the emerging skin, which in the embrace of oud has a downright mystical character,The first impression I had was of a leather tent of some nomadic people of the desert conjuring horses, inside there is a scent of light sweet flowers, and after a longer stay, we can smell a slightly powdery (here we can already smell the well-known iris) fading skin smoothed with sandalwood, so it is the sheikh himself who came to the tent.The final phase has a truly palace-like overtone, a great fragrance, the parameters at the beginning very strong and after two hours very intimate personal but well perceptible with every movement.
more My Little Pony collection than noble winged steed
Parfums de Marly's Pegasus Exclusif, and maybe I am extrapolating a bit from the brand’s copy, promises a ride on the back of a flying stallion, a journey into a realm of masculine virility and exhilarating power. But I think we need to temper our expectations; the description would have us believe this is the fragrant equivalent of a noble winged steed, all myth and muscle, soaring through the heavens, presumably being the fantastical equine embodiment of toxic masculinity. I'm not saying that I actually wanted any of that, but instead, what we are presented with is a pastel carousel pony, all heliotrope powdered sugar and cracked porcelain. Now, there are some things I am not up to speed on here, which is to say that Pegasus Exclusif implies the existence of a Pegasus not-so-Exclusif, and if that is the case, I haven’t smelled that yet, and maybe that one is a dusty plastic marzipan macaron as well… so I am not sure how this one differs. And unlike other reviewers, I don’t get anything complex or dark or rich out of this perfume; the promised depth and complexity and woods and spices never materialize, leaving a one-dimensional sweetness and a sense of artificial whimsy that smells more like a My Little Pony collection than the epic journey of a majestic beast.
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