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Top Review
29
21 Conduit Street, Mayfair
The Jovoy company has chosen a noble plaster for its London branch: Mayfair - perhaps the most expensive square on the local playing field. Consequently, the assortment is no less exquisite and almost as distinguished as in the somewhat larger headquarters in Paris (see commentary on "Rêve en Cuir"). The in-house creations are by no means the focus of attention in both branches.
All over the UK the masques are only available here, I was assured. Without pride, but with that demonstrative serenity that knows no doubt about the self-evident. After all, such a shop is at eye level with its customers. Which - again like in Paris - did not prevent the Touri from being accommodating with a red backpack and sports shoes as well as his 13-year-old daughter. However, with all due respect, she also looked quite professional, how the not-at-all-small girl kept her accurately labeled test strips fanned out in her left hand, sniffed at them alternately and made her (quite plausible!) judgments. What was Dad proud of!
Back to the masques: the finely engraved marlin quickly turned the well-formed bottle from an eye-catcher into a hang-grip. The seller declared 'Hemingway' to be the best vetiver fragrance he had smelled in a long time. That sounded good, especially since Jovoy also sold Malles 'Vétiver Extraordinaire', to which certain parallels could be found in terms of vetiver width. On request there was a small sample (made of glass!) without any problems, stuck with a cleanly printed label on the spot. That's what Art has. So I could test at home in peace.
Vetiver. Right from the start. Characteristically concise, yet mild in appearance. Neither ginger nor rhubarb would have come of its own accord and even with an announcement they hardly leave the sphere of imagination at this stage. Instead, the stronger ingredients of the base already flash out, Patchouli can quickly be guessed at and plays with its proximity to leather, which on the other hand also has tary-smoky roots. Or better: seems to have, because the aromas circle, like swaths, around each other. Fresh, slightly moist soil, warm, spicy, herbaceous touches, an almost sweet nutiness. The grass offers all its facets on and on its edges are skilfully and carefully applied some rounding flavors.
One shortcoming is the imminent retreat. Already after three hours - at least on a warm summer day - the scent is on the skin. Funnily enough, a hint of fruitiness penetrates for a while, as would have been expected for the beginning. In general it remains exciting. The Patchouli puts a toe in the chocolate (bitter bitter, of course) and at noon the still missing Vetiver varieties appear, as if there were: a distinctive, gentle salt note, which enriches the earthy smoky part, as well as a trace of acidity, as some Vetivers show. Today, however, we also want to believe that rhubarb is involved - only for the sake of the pyramidal order.
After about six or seven hours, the fragrance gently lands on fine wood, which has both light and dark aspects and no synthetics that I can feel. On the second day of testing I notice the document much earlier, but it remains very enigmatic into the afternoon. This end comes a little more polished than the rest and radiates a more uniform noblesse. Noblesse, though. An overall worthy conclusion.
Conclusion: A vetiver fragrance without any fuss around it. Hemingway' successfully relies on the central ingredient and its variety of flavours. The result should not go untested by any Vetiver friend.
Top Notes 
Ginger
Rhubarb
Heart Notes 
Vetiver
Base Notes 
Java vetiver
Cedarwood
Haitian vetiver
Leather
Patchouli
Ceesie
Pepdal
TheDunkPapa
NicheOnly
Dne
