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Notes10/29/2021
Jakoparfum
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Omani Chypre
This fragrance represents the essence of the new millennium for Amouage.
The fragrance consists of a "classic" and vintage DNA combined with strong Omani elements (frankincense and myrrh). The inspiration for the fragrance comes from perfume classics like Femme Rochas and Mitsouko, but also from Diorella (for the top notes) and Champagne (for its fruity and peachy notes).
There are other similarities to Sikkim by Lancome (for its dry yet green base) and Shocking by Schiaparelli (for its slowly diffusing amber aura).
The opening has very intense notes of great impact, with aldehydes present from the start. (Without any reference to soap), bergamot and cumin, which immediately give the fragrance a distinct carnality and sensuality; in other words, it is a cumin very similar to the great Eau d'hermes and Femme de Rochas of 1989 (reformulated by the great Oliver Cresp). After a few minutes, the myrrh note emerges: a strongly resinous, warm and imposing myrrh. The myrrh note is combined with Omani frankincense of the best quality: dry, citrusy and penetrating. These are exactly the elements that Amouage has introduced on the basis of other fragrances from which it draws inspiration.
The heart note of the perfume is a lovely ylang-ylang note that is soft, round and sensual and combines well with warm myrrh. The result is truly surprising. To add further elements of opulence, the rose peeks out without ever overpowering the ylang note.
After a few hours of the fragrance unfolding its best notes (all perfectly balanced), an ambery, dry yet round and enveloping aura emerges (hence the similarity to Shocking by Schiaparelli). The perfume becomes ambery through myrrh, patchouli and ylang ylang with the davana note simultaneously adding a green and dark aspect. The fruity component (although it is never mentioned in the pyramid) never disappears throughout the duration of the fragrance, it is a velvety peach, warm and ripe, very similar (thanks to the combination with the cumin note) to the smell of human skin when warmed by the sun. Most likely, the peach note was reconstructed using the old method of C-14 aldehyde (gamma undecalactone), the same note found in Rochas Femme and in many other perfumes.
All these aspects (typical and less typical of Amouage) are combined in a fragrance that is breathtaking for its opulence, its beauty, its perfect balance and its richness of notes.
For a spicy chypree lover like me, this is liquid gold, an amulet with which to master any situation in life. A fragrance formulated to be noticed but not too overbearing, a golden opulence called Amouage. I don't recommend it to those who like "new generation fragrances."
For me, it remains one of the three best perfumes I've ever owned!
The fragrance consists of a "classic" and vintage DNA combined with strong Omani elements (frankincense and myrrh). The inspiration for the fragrance comes from perfume classics like Femme Rochas and Mitsouko, but also from Diorella (for the top notes) and Champagne (for its fruity and peachy notes).
There are other similarities to Sikkim by Lancome (for its dry yet green base) and Shocking by Schiaparelli (for its slowly diffusing amber aura).
The opening has very intense notes of great impact, with aldehydes present from the start. (Without any reference to soap), bergamot and cumin, which immediately give the fragrance a distinct carnality and sensuality; in other words, it is a cumin very similar to the great Eau d'hermes and Femme de Rochas of 1989 (reformulated by the great Oliver Cresp). After a few minutes, the myrrh note emerges: a strongly resinous, warm and imposing myrrh. The myrrh note is combined with Omani frankincense of the best quality: dry, citrusy and penetrating. These are exactly the elements that Amouage has introduced on the basis of other fragrances from which it draws inspiration.
The heart note of the perfume is a lovely ylang-ylang note that is soft, round and sensual and combines well with warm myrrh. The result is truly surprising. To add further elements of opulence, the rose peeks out without ever overpowering the ylang note.
After a few hours of the fragrance unfolding its best notes (all perfectly balanced), an ambery, dry yet round and enveloping aura emerges (hence the similarity to Shocking by Schiaparelli). The perfume becomes ambery through myrrh, patchouli and ylang ylang with the davana note simultaneously adding a green and dark aspect. The fruity component (although it is never mentioned in the pyramid) never disappears throughout the duration of the fragrance, it is a velvety peach, warm and ripe, very similar (thanks to the combination with the cumin note) to the smell of human skin when warmed by the sun. Most likely, the peach note was reconstructed using the old method of C-14 aldehyde (gamma undecalactone), the same note found in Rochas Femme and in many other perfumes.
All these aspects (typical and less typical of Amouage) are combined in a fragrance that is breathtaking for its opulence, its beauty, its perfect balance and its richness of notes.
For a spicy chypree lover like me, this is liquid gold, an amulet with which to master any situation in life. A fragrance formulated to be noticed but not too overbearing, a golden opulence called Amouage. I don't recommend it to those who like "new generation fragrances."
For me, it remains one of the three best perfumes I've ever owned!
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