Top Notes 
Tarragon
Ylang-ylang
Lemon
Rose
Heart Notes 
Davana
Frankincense
Labdanum
Base Notes 
Myrrh
Musk
Amber
Vetiver
Patchouli
07/14/2012
jtd
484 Reviews
jtd
Helpful Review
6
Fruit Skin
Amouage Jubilation 25
Jubilation 25 demonstrates the richness and time evolution I associate with classical, French perfumery. To call it a spicy, floral, oriental, herbal, fruity chypre would capture a lot of the ground this fragrance covers, but it doesn’t really narrow things down. Though classical in style, Jubilation 25 is tough to capture in traditional nomenclature. The rose in the topnotes suggest a grand chypre, but frankincense standing in for labdanum hints at unpredicatbility. Its expansive opening reminds me of Tauer’s Incense Rosé, but the top really just ushers in a balsamic, woody set of notes that hum like a chorus. The fruit matches the woodiness. It’s a plumy, peachy scent with both the skin of a fruit and the ripe flesh. The ripeness has a strong ‘flavor’, but doesn’t have that feeling of turning fruit as in Rochas Femme and Dior Diorella. Like these two Edmond Rounitska classics, the fruit ties this scent’s upper register with its drydown.
Disclosure: I love fruity chypres. The best fruity chypres (the above, plus, YSL Y and Yvresse, Prescriptives Calyx, Bond no 9 Chinatown, Guerlain Diorella, Chanel Cristalle) are balanced and expressive, holding together contrasts that other genres cannot.
Fruity chypre is where Jubilation 25 winds up. Moss, fruit and wood triangulate and balance is more accurately a set of counterpoints just held in check. Everything I love about the drydown of fruity chypres, Chinatown in particular, is here, but Jubilation 25 keeps its own identity. The classic ambery drydown of a chypre is inflected with frankincense, making the final hours of Jubilation 25 dry and confidently stark. This concise drydown makes me feel like the circus-like opening belonged to another fragrance entirely, but one that I’d love to try again.
from scent hurdle.com
Jubilation 25 demonstrates the richness and time evolution I associate with classical, French perfumery. To call it a spicy, floral, oriental, herbal, fruity chypre would capture a lot of the ground this fragrance covers, but it doesn’t really narrow things down. Though classical in style, Jubilation 25 is tough to capture in traditional nomenclature. The rose in the topnotes suggest a grand chypre, but frankincense standing in for labdanum hints at unpredicatbility. Its expansive opening reminds me of Tauer’s Incense Rosé, but the top really just ushers in a balsamic, woody set of notes that hum like a chorus. The fruit matches the woodiness. It’s a plumy, peachy scent with both the skin of a fruit and the ripe flesh. The ripeness has a strong ‘flavor’, but doesn’t have that feeling of turning fruit as in Rochas Femme and Dior Diorella. Like these two Edmond Rounitska classics, the fruit ties this scent’s upper register with its drydown.
Disclosure: I love fruity chypres. The best fruity chypres (the above, plus, YSL Y and Yvresse, Prescriptives Calyx, Bond no 9 Chinatown, Guerlain Diorella, Chanel Cristalle) are balanced and expressive, holding together contrasts that other genres cannot.
Fruity chypre is where Jubilation 25 winds up. Moss, fruit and wood triangulate and balance is more accurately a set of counterpoints just held in check. Everything I love about the drydown of fruity chypres, Chinatown in particular, is here, but Jubilation 25 keeps its own identity. The classic ambery drydown of a chypre is inflected with frankincense, making the final hours of Jubilation 25 dry and confidently stark. This concise drydown makes me feel like the circus-like opening belonged to another fragrance entirely, but one that I’d love to try again.
from scent hurdle.com
1 Comment
BertolucciK
Violenza
Kurai
Aarseth
