When I read that one of the new Pineward EdTs presents itself as an apple soliflore, my interest in a natural green apple scent for my collection was piqued.
With this expectation, I ordered the fragrance blind. After the first spray, I was initially puzzled: where is the apple? Then I was startled by the unexpected and pronounced presence of the benzoin-sandalwood combination. Slowly, but increasingly stronger, the green apple emerged.
Even though the apple lingers throughout the first hour, I perceive the fragrance more as if the apple was built around the wood-resin core rather than (as hoped) the other way around.
Akero has a linear and relatively unremarkable scent progression. Not much really changes, except that the apple noticeably recedes after about an hour but remains perceptible. However, this is not a negative critique, just an observation.
As I already hinted in my statement: it’s not necessarily an apple soliflore for me, as it is stated on the Pineward website. For that, the green apple would need to be more at the center and fully dominate the fragrance, which it does not.
I would have wished for this quite beautiful watery-transparent, yet juicy and fresh-sour, cool Akero Green Apple to have significantly more restraint from benzoin and sandalwood. After the first few minutes, the apple-benzoin-wood combination dominates, rather than the green apple alone. This pulls the entire fragrance and the beautiful crisp apple into a warmer spot through the wood and especially the resin, instead of remaining fresh & fruity-cool. Therefore, I would place Akero in the cooler spring and the tail end of autumn.
I had hoped that Nicholas Nilsson would bring a similarly brilliant natural apple here, like the mealy red apple in
Apple Tabac, just without the spicy - or in relation to Akero, resinous-woody - "disturbances." But of course, that is a matter of taste and expectation management :)
A nicely crafted indie scent that deserves further chances. The apple is, as mentioned, quite well done. Although not as authentic and natural as the red one in "Apple Tabac | Pineward." Wood and resin (sandalwood & benzoin) are too loud for me in Akero, which is a shame, but that's how it is with expectations. One should better not have any.
The entire fragrance becomes more harmonious and woody for my nose after about 1 hour. The drydown on my skin is stable: whether one likes it or finds it challenging is something everyone must decide for themselves.
The fragrance has a beautiful natural color, and I really like the 37ml formats from Pineward. At this point, I can't say anything about the H/S/P, but I will add that later.
The fragrance should definitely be tested multiple times and on the skin, because the impression after the first spray can be quite different from the second and third times. On paper, the apple breaks down quite (quickly), so really test it on the skin.
Cheers!