03/12/2015

Rickbr
190 Reviews

Rickbr
A non obvious Tresor descendant
It might not seem, but X for Women descends directly from one of the most influent fragrance in the feminine fragrances, the fruity floral made by Sophia Grosjman for Lancôme, Tresor. The main Tresor structure is here, tough not in the same proportion; i feel that the musk and iso e super influence are reduced or masked to fit the cleaned patchouli, without the typical earthiness of this material, which gives the fragrance a typical touch of a modern chypre fragrance. The sweet violet aroma of ionones (synthetic molecules used to create both violet and iris accord) is also smaller here, what makes it difficult to see clearly the Tresor Influence. This way what ends standing out more for me is the fruity and milky touch from the aldehyde C14 (which is really a lactone instead of an aldehyde), very used to create this silky peach touch. The jasmine aroma here is luminous, light, abstract, typical of compositions where hedione is used, filled here with some synthetics or an accord that modify this floral part and also give a spicy floral aroma, something that reminds me in some angles a carnation aroma. Certainly this is a quite beautiful fragrance, hot, of excellent performance and evolution on skin, but this is another Clive creation clearly commercial disguised in a luxury fragrance, using the same synthetics and saying that uses precious materials (it might even be used here, but only in small amounts). Certainly, it's a good example of a)when you purchase an expensive fragrance, 50% of the price is probably the exclusivity aura and b) a luxury fragrance doesn't need to be expensive in its composition, but has to look like it is.
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