Beetroot is a tuber that could give sensory problems to the sense of smell, very emotional issues that depend significantly on experience. Once removed from the soil and washed, the tuber still has an organic-type odour similar to the ground but more concentrated or enhanced. Besides its unique appearance, the root vegetable has a sweet and earthy taste due to a compound called geosmin produced by the plant. This substance gives off the earthy smell we all know. You know, after a storm, we smell this earthy smell coming from the ground? It is caused by a substance in the soil, in this case. So it gives this not-too-sweet vegetable a touch of sourness.
Everyone doesn't like or appreciate beetroot, which can be a polarizing tuber. Given that I like it, it has never happened to me before to come across a fragrance with this note among its ingredients. This bizarre element led me to make a blind purchase, which was a wise decision.
First, Kyoto is a fragrance with balanced incense, rose and vetiver scents. It belongs to the rosy, earthy, rooty, musky, smoky, and unconventional categories. However, as soon as I smelled Kyoto, I couldn't help but imagine something earthly, the smell of damp autumn foliage. Call it what you prefer: Frondescence, leafage, or foliage — but that's what I feel. Kyoto gives off a very intense herbaceous scent, dizzying, reminiscent of freshly picked field vegetables. There is a decadent rosy scent that overlaps the earthy, a bit sweet, a tad tart, and a hint of a floral smell. The Turkish rose emerges undaunted, slow but astonishing, bittersweet and slightly peppery. I don't remember any other perfume with this fantastic opening, an earthy rose raised to the umpteenth degree. Not outdated, not the ordinary rose, but spicy and green, a genuinely revolutionary rose. As well as being earthy, the opening also has a slightly metallic undertone. This could be due to the rose petals and beetroot tubers immediately coming to mind.
A dry incense, austere, very faint, with lemony hints, fills the heart of Kyoto. While I find the slightly clerical incense appealing, it appears airy and sober as a feather. It mixes with the rose and takes on musky tones. Bursts of incense flutter throughout Kyoto's development. But the real magic is the sweet earthiness of the beetroot; it changes everything. If you are fond of incense, this might not be what you're looking for. In this movie, it is not one of the principal actors but an extra who serves to fill the scene without dominating it. It blends seamlessly with the rose and gives the vetiver a smokier undertone.
The dry-down reveals a smooth, vegetal, grassy, and slightly astringent vetiver, only a touch. The same vetiver that we also find in the homonymous Guerlain, very fickle, is sometimes sweeter and earthy and other times more herbaceous and peppery. Towards the end, the incense floats above everything. On my skin, it begins earthier and then floral but then becomes musky and animalic, with fresh vetiver balancing the rose from becoming too overpowering. Including a tinge of white musk in the concoction would not be unreasonable.
Floral, earthy, loamy, and smoky, Kyoto is a fragrance that is very sensitive to temperature and humidity. There are a lot of changes in the scent throughout the day, which I appreciate in a perfume. This scent has a moderate projection and lasts for a long time on the skin and even more on clothing. It screams cold weather, fall, and a great day and evening scent. If it were embroidery, the beetroot would be the thread covering the warp from all the other notes.
I base the review on a bottle I have owned since October 2022.
-Elysium