12/01/2022

Elysium
858 Reviews

Elysium
Top Review
11
Splendour And Decadence Of A Myth
Chypre is one of the most complex perfume accords, crisp, robust, and rugged, invented by Cypriots perfumers on the Cyprus island and planned for a masculine Eau de Chypre. Later, French perfumers adjusted the formula according to Parisian taste, making it more modern. It features five facets: citrus, floral, woody, mossy, and amber. The original formula, dark and rich, has grown over the years, and today we have a more transparent accord with hints of fruity, woody, earthy, musky, and leathery nuances. Combining these raw materials, such as citrus, floral, and mossy forms the backbone of all Chypre perfumes. Oakmoss is a key ingredient in Chypre perfumes, contrasted by citrus bergamot, floral rose or jasmine, earthy patchouli, and green labdanum; without oakmoss, it is difficult to consider a perfume as a chypre. So, this type of fragrance has an embedded complexity that matches people embracing it; it is not a crowd-pleaser. Refined, modern Chypre scents still evoke an ethereal and abstract emotion. In case you missed it, chypre has the scent of autumn, when the leaves fall from the trees and crunch under your feet, releasing that warm earthy aroma of nature.
While in the past, I have always avoided Chypre perfumes, as that accord was like a punch in the stomach and headache-inducing. Over the years, I have learned to appreciate them, although I am not a total sucker for Chypre scents. Besides, the resemblance to #Aramis intrigued me so much that I blindly ordered the modern EDP version online, even though I already have the vintage EDT edition in my collection.
First, Cabochard EDP 2019 is a leathery chypre with a massive masculine lean. If an anonymous bottle contained the perfume, testing it, nobody would think that it is a fragrance conceived and designed for a female audience or with a side-leaning feminine. Cabochard is a stunning Chypre for men, believe me, or not. It is not aggressive, and in this concentration, the green, mossy, earthy, and animal note of oak moss stands out above all and is affordable even for people like me who are not into Chypre accord. The perfume opens with a blast of amped, soapy aldehydes, a herbal tinge from aromatic sage, and an overdose of green galbanum. It is a little sour, musty, and bitter, and the cloud of aldehydes blends with some darker notes from the bottom. It is fresh; the freshness is akin to Aramis Eau de Toilette, no doubt. Sitting in the back row, mellow ylang-ylang fuses with creamy sandalwood. I like to imagine the charismatic and slightly androgynous actresses of the past millennium wearing this beauty, such as Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich and Bette Davis, all divas with a forceful personalities. In addition, even some actors like Marlon Brando, Burt Lancaster, Cary Grant or Clark Gable all heartthrobs with their ultra-manly appearance.
Quite a few hours later, the sparkling clean top calms down, and other performers come to the fore. I catch a smokiness from a cheeky cigarette, although a tobacco note is never mentioned. There is a hue of rose; figure out a room with a rosy bouquet on a table after someone smoked a cigarette. The smoke is lingering in the still air. Besides, other flowers bloom and the honey-like shades of the exotic yellow blossom are clearly perceivable, likewise the indolic and sweet jasmine. There are only a few floral hints in the middle, as they blend very well with the green and mossy accords. The flowers here are never a dominant feature or on display. The middle stage is idyllic, a real green chypre.
Cabochard becomes mossier and almost animalistic as it dries, rather than getting greasy and sour. The creaminess of the sandalwood gets shadowed by the mossy facet. On my skin, I get a deep yet smooth leatheriness. The leather is discreet, a mossy-floral suede, very elegant and not rugged. Likewise, patchouli is tamed and does not prevail. Indeed, oakmoss is the backbone of this fragrance, perceivable throughout its lifetime.
Of course, it is a Grès creation. It surprises me to find such high quality in a real bargain, natural with no synthetic notes. The 100ml cost me less than €20, which is ridiculous. This recent EDP seems a little more masculine in its temperament than the previous Cabochard (1995) Eau de Toilette I own; not that plentiful but modern and transparent. Very suitable for autumn and perhaps winter, rainy and misty days. I think the low temperatures highlight and deepen the dark notes. It has a moderate projection, but it lasts quite a long time on me and my clothes. When I went to bed late last night, it engulfed my nose when I took my T-shirt off. The evernyl replacing the oakmoss is of first quality here.
I base my opinion and review on a bottle I have owned since November 2022.
-Elysium
While in the past, I have always avoided Chypre perfumes, as that accord was like a punch in the stomach and headache-inducing. Over the years, I have learned to appreciate them, although I am not a total sucker for Chypre scents. Besides, the resemblance to #Aramis intrigued me so much that I blindly ordered the modern EDP version online, even though I already have the vintage EDT edition in my collection.
First, Cabochard EDP 2019 is a leathery chypre with a massive masculine lean. If an anonymous bottle contained the perfume, testing it, nobody would think that it is a fragrance conceived and designed for a female audience or with a side-leaning feminine. Cabochard is a stunning Chypre for men, believe me, or not. It is not aggressive, and in this concentration, the green, mossy, earthy, and animal note of oak moss stands out above all and is affordable even for people like me who are not into Chypre accord. The perfume opens with a blast of amped, soapy aldehydes, a herbal tinge from aromatic sage, and an overdose of green galbanum. It is a little sour, musty, and bitter, and the cloud of aldehydes blends with some darker notes from the bottom. It is fresh; the freshness is akin to Aramis Eau de Toilette, no doubt. Sitting in the back row, mellow ylang-ylang fuses with creamy sandalwood. I like to imagine the charismatic and slightly androgynous actresses of the past millennium wearing this beauty, such as Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich and Bette Davis, all divas with a forceful personalities. In addition, even some actors like Marlon Brando, Burt Lancaster, Cary Grant or Clark Gable all heartthrobs with their ultra-manly appearance.
Quite a few hours later, the sparkling clean top calms down, and other performers come to the fore. I catch a smokiness from a cheeky cigarette, although a tobacco note is never mentioned. There is a hue of rose; figure out a room with a rosy bouquet on a table after someone smoked a cigarette. The smoke is lingering in the still air. Besides, other flowers bloom and the honey-like shades of the exotic yellow blossom are clearly perceivable, likewise the indolic and sweet jasmine. There are only a few floral hints in the middle, as they blend very well with the green and mossy accords. The flowers here are never a dominant feature or on display. The middle stage is idyllic, a real green chypre.
Cabochard becomes mossier and almost animalistic as it dries, rather than getting greasy and sour. The creaminess of the sandalwood gets shadowed by the mossy facet. On my skin, I get a deep yet smooth leatheriness. The leather is discreet, a mossy-floral suede, very elegant and not rugged. Likewise, patchouli is tamed and does not prevail. Indeed, oakmoss is the backbone of this fragrance, perceivable throughout its lifetime.
Of course, it is a Grès creation. It surprises me to find such high quality in a real bargain, natural with no synthetic notes. The 100ml cost me less than €20, which is ridiculous. This recent EDP seems a little more masculine in its temperament than the previous Cabochard (1995) Eau de Toilette I own; not that plentiful but modern and transparent. Very suitable for autumn and perhaps winter, rainy and misty days. I think the low temperatures highlight and deepen the dark notes. It has a moderate projection, but it lasts quite a long time on me and my clothes. When I went to bed late last night, it engulfed my nose when I took my T-shirt off. The evernyl replacing the oakmoss is of first quality here.
I base my opinion and review on a bottle I have owned since November 2022.
-Elysium