If you think of a prominent phenomenon that has become established in the perfume industry in recent years, it's flankers. Flankers wherever you look. It feels like every new DNA gets at least one flanker thrown at it over time. Whether this is good or bad is something everyone has to decide for themselves.
It's no different with Issey Miyake, which is my favorite house by the way. First the original DNA
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Eau de Toilette. Then the Intense version (
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Intense), followed by
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Sport. These versions were at least roughly in the original categories.
However, with the next release,
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré, Miyake turned on his heel and created an incredibly good oriental-spicy fragrance that, to be honest, has NOTHING to do with the original DNA. In addition to it, we should also mention
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Or Encens, which also bears the original name, but is a rosy-smoky fragrance. Here, too, there is not much (not a bit) of original DNA left. I would like to emphasize this again: I have only listed the most relevant flankers here. There are WAY more. If you don't want to believe me, just take a look at the house here at Parfumo and see for yourself. It's absurd!
With the current release, Miyake is once again changing direction and finally returning to the original DNA: a fresh, slightly citrusy opening.
After spraying on, the original DNA is immediately noticeable. In fact, the fragrance is noticeably more potent and denser right from the start. However, subtle differences can be recognized on closer inspection:
The pepper gives the opening a spicier note than the original and at the same time makes it somewhat fresher, which is actually somewhat paradoxical.
Throughout the entire fragrance, the scent has a floral note, but this cannot be captured exactly.
The lavender is also new and now has a new undertone and is a little more "mainstream". Unfortunately, the fragrance no longer smells as unique as the original, which is a real shame.
As the fragrance progresses, the woods join in noticeably. The fragrance recedes with the projection after around 5 to 6 hours, becoming closer to the body and much woodier, but not completely losing the top note. I think the balance here is well achieved!
What can also be said about the original can also be said about the longevity and sillage: OK to good for a freshie, but not outstanding. I would rate it a little stronger and longer lasting than the original. If you are looking for a performance monster here, you should rather look at the "flankers" such as
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Or Encens or
L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Noir Ambré. They really roar, but they also have nothing to do with the original DNA :'D
What can be said about the price can also be said about (almost) every Miyake: Go for it! No joke, in terms of price/performance, Issey Miyake is really sweeping some houses under the carpet.
To summarize, I can say that a solid flanker has been created here, which is a little more intense and "modern" than the, now somewhat older, original. But it doesn't reinvent the world either.
Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
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