Fleur Poudrée de Musc

Fleur Poudrée de Musc by Les Néréides
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Controversially Rated Scent
 
3.2 / 10 23 Ratings
A perfume by Les Néréides for women. The release year is unknown. The scent is powdery-floral. The production was apparently discontinued.
Pronunciation
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Main accords

Powdery
Floral
Animal
Synthetic
Spicy

Fragrance Notes

MuskMusk
Ratings
Scent
3.223 Ratings
Longevity
6.917 Ratings
Sillage
4.910 Ratings
Bottle
5.317 Ratings
Submitted by Hermessenz, last update on 03/07/2021.

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Reviews

2 in-depth fragrance descriptions
2.5
Bottle
5
Sillage
7.5
Longevity
8
Scent
MemoryOScent

37 Reviews
MemoryOScent
MemoryOScent
0  
absolute musk stinker
So what is my absolute musk stinker? This little benign romantic perfume from Les Néréides. A jewellery company that started producing hand crafted off beat, happy designs back in 1980 and at some point expanded to perfume. Their designs have become more conventional but they have created a different line, N2 jewellery, that still has some of the initial spirit of the brand. Their perfumes have remained under the radar however, selling at very reasonable prices. And they are good! Very good! Old fashioned, romantic, bohemian like the jewellery but of very good quality. This one in particular is a quirky little piece.

The name, Powdered Musk Flower, pretty much is a note list by itself. But the opening packs a fistful of animalic, dirty, urinous musk. It is bold and scary but after the initial shock for some strange reason it makes me go back and sniff my wrist again. A totally primeval urge to experience the repulsion again and again. Or just the primeval attraction to musk? Before I know it I start to like what I smell. It is a sensual and human smell that smiles like a naughty child, poking its nose: “Look how nasty I am!”. The softest and most playful flowers join the elfish musk into a combination that has the proverbial “old lady” vibe but this old lady is a cheerful Miss Havisham, dressed in a pretty white wedding dress, picking up flowers in the garden. In the last phase I can also smell the powder that she uses on her cracked face. The musk becomes less aggressive towards the drydown, shedding most of the associations with urinals but it never goes into synthetic or white musk territory.

The picture of the perfumed old lady that I am drawing might look pitiful in your eyes but there is a very intelligent decision in the composition of this perfume: nothing is done in great seriousness. Everything floats in the air lightly and light-heartedly. The volume is exactly at the right level. It develops into a delicate floral skinscent with the most realistic musk note I have ever smelled in a perfume. It doesn’t claim breaking new ground but rather it digs up in the old attic for forgotten treasures. In a way, Fleur Poudrée de Musc reminds me of Amouage Gold pour Homme. I know this comparison can make me turn into a pillar of salt but given that I can still type, let me explain myself. Both fragrances use pissy musk, white florals and powder to make a statement. But where the cheap Fleur Poudrée de Musc creates a playful, light romantic feminine aura, the uber-expensive Gold pour Homme uses these old fashioned notes attempting to create something relevant in a bombastic “look at me” way that made me run to the sink. Unfortunately Fleur Poudrée de Musc is now discontinued as well as Impérial Opoponax, my second Les Néréides bottle, but I suspect their remaining releases are equally good.

Fleur Poudrée de Musc is a very feminine scent with a very dirty musk. I never wear it when I am going to meet unsuspecting noses but it holds a place in my heart because it is daring and delicate at the same time. It offers me the chance to enjoy musk at its wildest but it knows when to stop. It smells like a fairy tale and I know exactly which one: the Snow-white. The only difference is that this version of the tale showcases a very naughty Snow-white and all seven dwarfs!
0 Comments
jtd

484 Reviews
jtd
jtd
Helpful Review 2  
bullies MKK
The name, the quaint bottle, the label (you really have to see the label.) It all tells you that this will be a powder-puff of a perfume designed for the sort of woman who tiptoes through her life as if La Sylphide and Giselle were living role models. The label even has a pair of symmetrical putti fluttering about carrying the name of the perfume on a banner you might find at the renaissance fair.

Don’t let the preciousness fool you, the topnotes make the opening of Luten’s Muscs Kublai Khan seem like a fresh rose on a pillow. Have you ever undressed somebody after a long day of winter sport, all those layers amplifying the scent of skin that’s sweated then dried multiple times? Remember that scent, then imagine some powder on top. That’s Fleur Poudrée.

Fleur Poudrée has all the sweet waxiness that the ‘skin musks’ have, but it also lays out a foul/powdery dichotomy that says proudly, “Embrace the unwholesomeness!” The flowers and musky berry-sweetness only serve to fill in the narrow middle between the boulder-like bookends of powder and funk.

Fleur Poudrée captures utterly what I love about musk-based perfumes. It tells you we’re animals and we in fact want to sniff each other. But it also tells you that much of what we learn from infancy onward, starting with ritual cleansings/circumcision/initiation ceremonies, is to keep others at arm’s length. The ‘personal space’ bit actually just means you stink and I stink and if human stink bothers you, you’ll never actually find a solution.

Fleur Poudrée exaggerates the carnal at the same time that it amplifies the classic defense against our own odor: powder. It’s the torrid disguised as the proper. Unless you’re in on the joke, Fleur Poudrée must be unsettling.
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