Was it really a good idea to order this anniversary scent from Patricia de Nicolaï (hereafter referred to as PdN) blindly?
With "Baïkal Leather Intense," the great perfumer is celebrating her 30th anniversary this month. Since I have counted myself among her admirers since the beginning of the millennium and also love leather scents, plus I have even been to Lake Baikal (a little personal sentimentality on the side), I thought I would take no risk and ordered 30 ml for 59 euros (plus 16 euros shipping from Paris - why is it so expensive anyway?) to my home.
For hours now, the new PdN scent has accompanied me, sprayed on in the morning, refreshed at noon, sprayed again in the evening, and now, at this late hour, still on my skin.
My daughter and my partner are, of course, very used to my "olfactory territory" (I better remain silent about other areas of life) and like to comment on my perfumes.
In this particular case, my daughter (17! Yes, I am proud of her...) even drew comparisons to a PdN scent she once wore but then returned to me because it was too strong for her (PdN's "Patchouli Intense").
Her reaction to the new one: "Intense is different in my mind. Doesn’t smell like PdN." "Yeah, it’s okay, but where’s the leather?"
The man by my side took note of the new PdN much more positively. Right upon greeting, he said: "Hmm, you smell particularly good today."
Well! (So he could take the scent from me).
Because I myself am quite disappointed.
Oh, what am I saying, I am shocked.
This scent does not meet my expectations at all.
The experts among you know the whole range of leather scents... I don’t need to bore you with comparisons, starting from Cuir de Russie to Bandit to Juri Gutsatz or Tom Ford to products from Rossmann.
But perhaps even the Rammstein fragrance has more leather notes than this product from an independent French niche brand.
And what has happened to the Guerlain genes in PdN's nose? I don’t even want to talk about that.
So, what was Madame de Nicolaï thinking when she released such a tame, adapted scent for her anniversary and then also named it "Baïkal Leather Intense"? Yes, there is a PdN Facebook page in Russian, but does the company really rely so heavily on customers from the Russian Federation? Or on old fans like me, who are hoping for an exciting leather scent?
At first, I really hoped, was very positive, because the top note is fresh, practically exploding, and fun.
By the way, I absolutely cannot perceive saffron, which is supposedly included in the top note. Instead, there’s a lot of green, a pleasant freshness.
Then comes... no leather.
Gentle tones follow, as if a singer's voice has given out after a run from high C.
She is no longer a radiant soprano but somehow breathily and shyly croaks out a middle range. You want to throw her a microphone, but now you notice that the music has already settled into a pleasantly droning "Muzac-Level," that musical background noise of an average shopping center.
Which flowers are responsible for this now - I really don’t care, and hopefully, you don’t either. Supposedly rose, violet, and iris. The usual suspects, indeed.
After an hour, the scent completely crashes into the anonymity of a generic men's fragrance of newer design. PdN apparently does not use ambroxan, but a lot of musk and tonka bean. That’s nice, but if I’m looking for a sweetish men’s scent in that style, I can find much better in the mainstream.
At Lake Baikal, certainly as well; I remember a small place, Listvyanka, where there was a shop that carried some typical scents, e.g., "Russian Forest." Available for three euros. Or you can opt for a copy from China, for example, "12 Million" or "La Nuit d'Yves."
By the way, from the shores of Lake Baikal, you can see Mongolia in good weather...
Lake Baikal stands worldwide as an example of a multitude of endemic animals and plants whose existence is threatened.
PdN once stood for innovative and tasteful French perfumery... whose existence is obviously also threatened.
Madame de Nicolaï has truly provided a great analogy with her naming.
Well, those were the days...
I bid PdN a wistful "Adieu" and dig out my old bottle of "Sacrebleu."