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Boring Baïkal, Bonjour (and goodbye)
Was it really a good idea to order this anniversary fragrance from Patricia de Nicolaï (called PdN below) blind?
With "Baïkal Leather Intense" the great perfumer celebrates her 30th company anniversary this month. Since I've been one of their admirers since the beginning of the millennium and love leather scents, I've even been to Lake Baikal (small personal sentimentality on the edge), I thought I wouldn't take any risks and ordered 30 ml for 59 Euro (plus 16 Euro shipping from Paris - why so expensive?) home
For hours now the new PdN fragrance has accompanied me, sprayed in the morning, refreshed at noon, sprayed again in the evening, now still on my skin at night sleeping time.
My daughter and my partner are, of course, very used to me in the "olfactory field" (I'd better not talk about other areas of life now) and like to comment on my perfumes.
In this particular case, my daughter (17! Yes, I am proud of her...) could even draw comparisons to a PdN scent that she once wore but then gave back to me because it was too strong (PdN's "Patchouli Intense" )
Her reaction to the new one: "I imagine Intense differently. Doesn't smell like PdN." "Yeah, okay, but where's the leather?"
The man at my side was much more positive about the new PdN. As a greeting he said: "Hmm, but you smell especially good today."
After all! (So he could take the scent off me).
Cause I'm pretty disappointed myself.
Oh, what do I say, I'm shocked.
This fragrance does not meet my expectations at all.
The cracks here among you of course know the whole range of leather scents... i don't have to bore you with comparisons, from Cuir de Russie to Bandit to Juri Gutsatz or Tom Ford to products from Rossmann.
But maybe even the Rammstein - fragrance has more leather tones than this product of an independent French niche brand.
And what happened to the Guerlain genes in Pdn's nose? I don't want to talk about that at all.
So, what was Madame de Nicolaï thinking of bringing out such a tame, adapted fragrance for her anniversary and then calling it "Baïkal Leather Intense"? Yes, there is a PdN Facebook page in Russian, but does the company really rely so much on customers from the Russian Federation? Or to old fans like me, who are hoping for an exciting leather scent?
At the beginning I was really hoping, was very positive, because the top note is fresh, explodes formally, is fun.
Saffron, by the way, is absolutely imperceptible and is supposed to be contained in the top note. But a lot of green, a pleasant freshness.
Then come... no leather.
Soft tones follow, as if a singer had failed her voice after a run from the high C down.
She is no longer a radiant soprano, but breathes her way hoarse in the middle position and hushes you up. One would like to throw her a microphone, but now one notices that the music has already settled on a pleasantly splashing "Muzac level", this musical background noise of an average shopping center.
Which flowers have to be blamed now - I don't really care, hopefully you do too. Supposedly rose, violet and iris. The usual suspects.
After an hour, the fragrance falls completely into the arbitrariness of a more recent generic men's fragrance. PdN obviously doesn't use ambroxan, but lots of musk and tonka bean. That's quite nice, but if I look for a sweet men's scent like that, I can find a lot better in the mainstream.
At Lake Baikal I remember a small place, Listvyanka, where there was a shop with some typical scents, e.g. "Russian Forest". For three euros. Or you can use a copy from China, for example "12 Million" or "La Nuit d'Yves".
From the shore of Lake Baikal you can see Mongolia when the weather is good...
The Baïkal is a worldwide example of a large number of endemic animals and plants whose existence is threatened.
PdN once stood for an innovative and tasteful French perfume art... whose existence is obviously also threatened.
Madame de Nicolaï herself has really delivered a great analogy with her name.
Well, those were the days...
I call PdN a wistful "Adieu" and dig out my old bottle of "Sacrebleu"