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Eau de Gloire Édition Millésimée - Cologne pour l'Hiver

7.1 / 10 10 Ratings
A perfume by Parfum d'Empire for men. The release year is unknown. The scent is citrusy-green. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Citrus
Green
Spicy
Floral
Fresh

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
BergamotBergamot Citrus notesCitrus notes OrangeOrange Judicial SandpaperJudicial Sandpaper
Heart Notes Heart Notes
Floral notesFloral notes PetitgrainPetitgrain Violet leafViolet leaf
Base Notes Base Notes
CivetCivet MatéMaté MuskMusk SandalwoodSandalwood WomphlezarkWomphlezark

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.110 Ratings
Longevity
5.79 Ratings
Sillage
5.88 Ratings
Bottle
7.311 Ratings
Submitted by Feylamia · last update on 12/16/2021.
Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Aéroplane by Detaille
Aéroplane
Eau Sauvage (Eau de Toilette) by Dior
Eau Sauvage Eau de Toilette

Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Cravache

64 Reviews
Translated · Show originalShow translation
Cravache
Cravache
Top Review 0  
Adventure, Freedom, Bomber Pilots, and Eau Sauvage
Badertscher Jürg (in Switzerland, the surname is placed first - Klaus Kinski is referred to as Kinski Klaus) stands by the window. He is satisfied with himself. CFO of a medium-sized company, the numbers are good. From his spacious office (top floor, with art prints of paintings by Miró Joan and a picture of Tell Wilhelm on the walls), Badertscher Jürg can overlook the runways and hangars of the nearby airport. And in the tinted glass, he can see his reflection. White shirt by Dior Christian, dark blue slim-fit suit by Ford Tom. Badertscher Jürg is also satisfied with this. Even if the suit doesn’t fit as snugly as Kern Christian’s. But he is not doughy like Trump Donald, that is not Badertscher Jürg.

As Badertscher Jürg walks through the lonely hallway of the top floor (those in lower floors are not allowed access to the top floor), he leaves a fine scent trail. Eau Sauvage by Dior Christian, which his wife, Badertscher-Kummer Vreni, places next to his white shirt every morning. Badertscher Jürg is satisfied. With his numbers, with his suit in the reflection, with Badertscher-Kummer Vreni. And of course, also with his scent from Dior Christian. But on this brilliantly beautiful Friday in November, Badertscher Jürg lingers a little longer at the window. His gaze does not wander over the snow-capped peaks of the pre-Alps; he looks at the nearby airfield.

Even though Badertscher Jürg hasn’t spoken to anyone who doesn’t hold a management position in a long time, he feels like a friend of the blue-collar worker - at least if he knew any. Sometimes he regrets not encountering them at his golf club by Lake Zurich or during his ski vacation in St. Moritz. The chypre aura of his scent from Dior Christian makes Badertscher Jürg feel melancholic today. To the surprise of his assistant Kneubühler Livia, Badertscher Jürg shortly thereafter leaves his office without a word (even the daily glance at his assistant’s behind is absent today, much to her irritation) and gets into his limousine.

In a luxury department store on Zurich's Bahnhofstrasse, he seeks distraction when he is jolted from his thoughts by a sonorous voice with a French accent. "Would you like to test a perfume?" asks the young perfume saleswoman, whose name tag reads Martineau Sophie, and she beams at Badertscher Jürg. After a brief inspection, Badertscher Jürg decides to accept the testing offer. "It smells like Eau Sauvage. That’s also my father’s perfume! I’ll show you other perfumes from the Eau Sauvage universe!" Badertscher Jürg is satisfied. With the distraction, with the sight of the distraction, with himself, and the testing suggestion. And so Martineau Sophie conjures three flacons onto the counter next to the cash register: Aéroplane by Detaille, Aigues Vives (Perfume) by Galimard, and Eau d'Aviateur by Flou Atelier.

Badertscher Jürg immediately recognizes a kinship of all three scents to his Eau Sauvage. Aéroplane reminds him of his vintage flacon of Eau Sauvage from 1994. Deeper, spicier, herbaceous than his current Eau Sauvage - and more gasoline-like. More precisely: aviation fuel. Badertscher Jürg shakes his head. Aviation fuel? That won’t score points with Badertscher-Kummer Vreni, vice-chairwoman of the Greens in his municipality. "The whole flying Mallorca party crowd is destroying the environment. Flying needs to become more expensive again!" Badertscher Jürg recalls his wife’s grumbling in the first-class lounge when he flew with her to New York for shopping last Christmas.

Next, he turns to Aigues Vives (Perfume). His melancholy has vanished. This is partly due to the charm of Demoiselle Martineau, but also to the scent. "This is Eau Sauvage with the sun of southern France. Three-day beard. And Corsican joie de vivre! This is the real Eau Sauvage perfume, not the one Dior Christian sells under this name," Badertscher Jürg thinks to himself, recalling the first vacation in Avignon with Badertscher-Kummer Vreni, who was still Kummer Vreni back then - and for primarily career-related reasons was married to Badertscher Jürg seven months later. "Badertscher, you can’t wear that in the office! That’s a scent for carefree deputy directors or daydreaming humanities scholars." And so Badertscher Jürg dismisses Aigues Vives as well, although he feels a certain wistfulness.

After another brief inspection, Badertscher Jürg turns to the last test candidate. Eau d'Aviateur. Badertscher Jürg also detects a kinship with Eau Sauvage here, although Eau d'Aviateur reminds him a bit more of Aéroplane.

In the top note, Badertscher Jürg identifies his Eau Sauvage. Garnished with a bit of orange and enlivened by the graceful, sun-drenched lemon from Monsieur Balmain (un-reformulated version from 1990 by Becker Calice). Petitgrain projects the citrus scent into a kaleidoscope, giving Eau d'Aviateur a texture of soft citrus clouds in southern French yellow and green tones.

The floral heart of Eau d'Aviateur is herbaceous and green, somewhat less musty than in Aéroplane. The heart is framed in gentle light wood, natural, soft, and carried with subtlety.

Badertscher Jürg likes what he smells: his Eau Sauvage, a petroleum-free variant of Aéroplane, and the citrus joie de vivre of Aigues Vives, although not as exuberantly. Badertscher Jürg pulls out his company credit card and treats himself to the scent.

Badertscher Jürg is back in his office. Just before his lunch at the golf club, he assesses the further scent progression of Eau d'Aviateur. He misses the oakmoss note of Eau Sauvage a little, which in the current formulation is noticeably richer, crunchier, and darker green. The green, slightly smoky leaf note (probably mate) in Eau d'Aviateur is not a full substitute.

Badertscher Jürg stands by the window for a while and observes the aircraft mechanics at the nearby airfield. Suddenly, he believes he can smell the gray-blue overalls of the mechanics. Overalls that are human, a hint of fresh, metallic sweat, a bit of oil on their hands. A scent of adventure, freedom, satisfaction from a day’s work completed. Civet and white musk. Civet, like a tiger wandering across a lonely plain under a milky sky in the damp, cold snow. Musk, like soft cloud castles in the sky over the South Sea.

When Badertscher Jürg arrives home in the evening, he is welcomed by Badertscher-Kummer Vreni. "You smell familiar. Like back in Avignon," Badertscher-Kummer Vreni beams at her Badertscher Jürg.

And when Badertscher Jürg sometimes stands at the window of his office, looking into the clouds, wearing Eau d'Aviateur, he imagines himself in a leather lambskin jacket of the adventurous pilots of the 1930s, somewhere over the Atlantic, flying through cloud castles, without a specific destination.

It is surprising that Eau d'Aviateur is not more widely known on Parfumo. It would actually be a Parfumo scent. Eau Sauvage universe, niche, a hint of civet, moderately priced - and a fantastic flacon. Heavy like a full steel gasoline canister, crafted with great attention to detail. If Eau Sauvage had this civet note or Eau d'Aviateur had the oakmoss note of Eau Sauvage, then this would be my perfect scent.
32 Comments
Jpg153

101 Reviews
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Jpg153
Jpg153
5  
...is not juice and not a cocktail
Eau d'Aviateur is often presented as a summer fragrance - fresh and fruity - based on the scent pyramid and the description on the blog at www.alzd.de.
So it is at Spülmanns in Krefeld.
And indeed, during the test on the narrow paper strip in the perfumery, I thought I recognized parallels to Monsieur Balmain.
However, a comparative test clearly showed that this is definitely not the case.
Monsieur Balmain is much juicier, more sour, more citrusy, brighter, sharper...

A first test on the skin went about as Jensemann described below:
A drop on the back of the hand - a brief orange, a bit of flower and herb, dull finish - quite quick!

At this point, it was already clear that this is certainly not a light summer scent, nor a summer cologne.

What to do? Courage!
So, one spray in the elbow creases, one on the chest, and two on the neck.
And it was good!
The top note is citrusy but orange, not lemony. It has only a slight sharpness and almost no acidity. It doesn't jump out at me. Initially starting with a slightly alcoholic note, it then gives a muted, almost slightly oily impression.
Floral notes from the heart note then join in, along with herbs, and it also becomes a bit bitter.
I couldn't initially identify the herbal note, but I believe it is the violet leaves.
Kiton Men - which I tested a bit later - has a similar note in the scent development. And the only similarity is something with "violets." I also consider this quite plausible, as violets can certainly smell anything but sweet.

The scent gains width in the heart without becoming heavy. The projection always remains limited, except for the top note, which of course flies a bit further.
This scent development up to this point takes place within a short hour.
With the transition to the heart note, but already hinted at in the head, a scent note emerges that I have not known before, which makes it difficult for me to categorize.
However, I am now quite sure that it must be civet. I believe I have sniffed a similar note in one of the Chanel classics or other classics in a similar form.

This scent is not woody, not floral, and not fruity. Perhaps animalistic is correct.

In any case, this component mixes into the heart note and becomes more dominant as the flowers fade.
Initially, the herbal component still remains, but later this note takes center stage.
Besides that, I can still perceive musk. I cannot find the tea or the wood, however.

Just now, a few minutes ago when I returned to the office (solitary confinement, no air conditioning, hence the windows are closed - outside it is certainly 10°C warmer), I noticed a slight, tea-like scent in the air.
But that could also be imagination.

Now, after about 5-6 hours, the flyer is indeed running out of steam. On the skin, only a very faint skin-like scent remains, somewhat soft-aromatic - perhaps still wood?! - and with movement, I occasionally catch a whiff of this animalistic scent (can this also be described as "pulling scent"?).

In this respect, yes, clearly a scent for warmer days - I might also try it in winter - but it is not a light summer breeze.
This is much more a classic men's perfume in a Chypre-like cut!

What I note: Atelier Flou perfumes should be applied a bit thicker! I have already observed this with Monsieur Mon Amour as well. 3x only on the chest is a waste, as it is almost ineffective!

Eau d'Aviateur - aviator water!
It doesn't quite fit with the modern captains of Airbuses or Boeings.

It fits with the "daring heroes in their flying crates" - with gasoline and oil smell, exhaust-grayed, sun-tanned skin, flying between the teeth, and bird droppings on the glasses...
1 Comment
Jensemann

217 Reviews
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Jensemann
Jensemann
2  
Cool Pilot
"Eau d'Aviateur"... the scent of the pilot. What might a pilot from Lufthansa, for example, wear as a fragrance? This one from Atelier Flou? Why not, it would be quite a pleasant perfume for him.

Right after spraying, it smells like a bath additive. With an orange as a base note, which then gains more dominance. After 2 minutes, the orange evaporates and the flowers come in. I also believe I can perceive a kind of musk. However, after not even 5 minutes, I can’t smell anything at all. Like it’s extinct. After another spray, the same thing happens. A mustiness also sets in. The orange seems to be done for now. On a spot where I haven't sprayed, the same thing occurs as before. About 5 minutes and it’s game over.

The longevity is quite poor for me. For spring and summer, I find it a nice scent, if only there were at least a little projection for a few minutes. But on my skin, it unfortunately falls apart way too quickly.

So the pilot was cool, but could he safely bring all the passengers down...? :)
4 Comments

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