Byerley is not a well-known fragrance from PdM; and that's exactly what motivated me to review it. I thought that I might discover a hidden gem here. Well, the fragrance is dedicated to one of the three horses (Byerley) that are considered the founders of thoroughbred racehorses. Exciting, and yes somehow it piques the interest.
Well, what does the scent smell like?
- The opening is a fresh, spicy burst of juicy bergamot and intensely spicy coriander. There's a lot of barbershop vibe in this initial phase and for some, the intensity of the cardamom can be a little difficult, almost bitter-green and spicy. As it progresses, a deep woodiness is added; you feel like you've been catapulted into a coniferous forest. Somehow green, resinous, but also fresh and above all balsamic.
- In the drydown, this spicy-balsamic-fresh and green character calms down a little, the fragrance gains in earthiness through the vetiver; the balsamic is still perceptible but is given a slightly resinous and creamy texture by the amber. This subliminal eucalyptus scent could effectively come from the myrrh tree; but strangely enough, it is also sometimes processed. The fragrance then lingers on this base for a good few hours...before it becomes skin-deep.
- The longevity is effectively mediocre; not quite PdM like as usual. The projection is also rather mediocre, absolutely fine, but with the notes you would expect more power.
Overall, the fragrance just seems "horsey" to me - without being disrespectful. Horses are majestic animals yes, but when they kick around wildly, flailing uncontrollably, they lose their elegance... and
Byerley gives me this impression. Even if the fragrance can somehow be explained, the concept is a bit chaotic, to be honest. You can't find a path, the interplay is inharmonious in parts and the transitions are also somehow difficult to understand.
Absolutely not a BlindBuy candidate for me. Very special yes, but definitely something you have to test extensively first.