Akowa was one of my most challenging test candidates so far. A quiet and unspectacular - in the sense of: un-spectacular - perfume that reveals enormous depth and soulful dignity in return. Moreover, it has a singular presence. I am very taken with it. Not every phase of the scent appeals to me equally, which is why I hesitate to award the highest scores. However, it is damn close.
At the same time, I found (and still find) it very difficult to approach the scent, to even put it into words. After all, I have blocked its escape routes, encircling it with the placement of other fragrances. No scent twins, that should be emphasized. But rather, those from which I hoped for vague insights that would help me understand Akowa better.
The first: Monsieur. by Frederic Malle. Related in its dark calm to the types of wearers, although the two have little else in common besides the patchouli.
The second: APOM by Francis Kurkdjian. Until now, I had not really tested it beyond "quickly in the store," but it reminded me of a woodsy-resinous framed, thus somewhat domesticated orange blossom, which might help me get closer to the colleague in Akowa. Consequently, a reasonable test of APOM was quickly prioritized. However, in APOM, the orange blossom is at the center, while for Akowa, it is a tool.
The third: Reflection Man by Amouage. Due to the temporary laundry-freshness that Akowa offers in the late morning - see below. This is also attributed to the white floral faction.
Unfortunately, all these approaches ultimately do not make it easier to describe Akowa. I could try to be objective:
After a brief aquatic-metallic opening (a first greeting from the orange blossom; even a hint of lavender-metal seems conceivable to me), a mélange of unsweetened cocoa, Tipp-Ex incense, and freshly cared-for fine leather from the patchouli corner emerges. Within half an hour, the metallic note - as hinted - reveals itself as orange blossom. Green and wood become stronger over time, but never dominant; every other mentioned ingredient remains on board in a variable and gradually diminishing weight share. In the afternoon, vanilla increasingly delivers sweetness.
Well, does that make your mouth water? Of course not. Such sober words are completely unsuitable for hinting at the effect of the scent.
Let me try it more lyrically:
It opens with a short-fresh start, already permeated by the cocoa-patchouli. It does not come across as bergamot-bitter or -harsh, but rather mild. In style, it resembles a more mature mandarin. The cocoa stays on this side of the chocolaty and is surrounded by a clerical-white incense impression à la Cardinal.
Beneath the surface, leather and a bit of green stir. Very delicate leaf green, which only shows itself at this early time upon repeated testing of the scent. It runs through the entire fragrance, often more as a hint than as certainty. I do not find the scent green; I find it brown. Soothing natural brown, a barren landscape at dusk. The last red-golden rays of the sun flow, the warmth of the day wafts away from the earth.
Already after half an hour, a hint of seriously unsweet vanilla appears. I could sink into it. Absolute tranquility. Not a lazy, sleepy calm, but rather a powerful, self-assured serenity. This is magnificent.
In the second hour, Akowa experiences a touch of sweetness. Yet it continues to ground that patchouli note bordering on the chocolaty, which never quite reaches it. Soon, I feel reminded from afar of Reflection Man, in this combination of creamy wood and floral, which there created a kind of laundry-freshness "in reality," meaning not the scent that the marketing department of Henkel would like to suggest to us, but the one that emanates from a freshly opened washing machine drum when the detergent might have been slightly overdosed. In a way, I feel something similar here, only sweeter, more intimate, and more flattering. And above all, less intrusive.
No. The entire paragraph does not quite capture it. The path to Reflection Man is - literally - a wooden path. Against Akowa, the Amouage seems downright…primitive. Let’s forget this trail. Figuratively: "Whatever you do, do not think of a pink elephant!" Such things, of course, do not work. Well, a repressed-distant thought of Reflection Man may linger. Nothing more.
Just as the scent seems to lose tension, it frees itself from the laundry drum. In the fourth hour, the dark, earthy parts become stronger again, without fully returning to their old form. It remains brighter and friendlier. An airy cedar note emerges around midday, surrounded by the aforementioned brown-green charm, which (at least for me) makes the uniqueness of Akowa.
In the eighth hour, Akowa is seeeeeehr quiet. Indeed, the longevity is a small downside, although around six hours gives no cause for greater complaint. The overall picture does not seriously diminish that anyway. Give it a try!
I thank DaveGahan101 for the sample.
Updated on 06/10/2024