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03/16/2021
Intersport
62 Reviews
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Intersport
5
Modernistic microdosing
While Chanel and Dior each launched a classic in the late 80's / early 90's with Egoiste and Fahrenheit respectively, YSL has set up a wide spectrum, which with Jazz, Jazz Prestige, Rive Gauche pour Homme, Body Kouros and M7 represents an incredibly productive section of YSL's perfume division. Kouros Cologne Sport was released at the same time as a first edition of Kouros Eau d'Ete, which seems like a harbinger to the peak time of Flanker Chaos, though it does set itself apart in design. The Cologne Sport bottle is so elegant and reduced that it could easily have been borrowed from a sketch by Adolf Loos or Josef Hoffmann and their glass works, or now from an architectural model by Junya Ishigami or SANAA. I can't think of any other flacons of the time that used silver plus transparent to create such lightness either. This theme continues in the fragrance and Kouros Cologne Sport manages to do what only perfume does so well. Heavy is made light, solid is made permeable, and a whole host of other laws of nature that characterize the excellent original Kouros are simply turned on their heads. Kouros aficionados will possibly see this as pure heresy, such an idiosyncratic alpha fragrance does not tolerate stragglers, and if so only the Eau Fraicheur! I take a more relaxed view, the Cologne Sport contains a light, even homeopathic pinch of Kouros essence that is still uniquely recognizable as Kouros even in this lightweight version. What Francis Kurkdjian has managed to do, by means of an intriguing aldehyde hairspray accord (Helmut Lang's first cologne version had something similar in the top note), Cologne Sport wanders far enough away from the original that is quite its own. Unfortunately, the perfume has been discontinued in favor of the summer versions soon again - the first of these 2003/2004 are still very very close, indeed almost identical to Cologne Sport, but the special lightness is only given by the grandiose packaging of Kouros Cologne Sport.
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