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HubertG01/20/2022
Elysium
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Elysium
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Essay on Exoticism
One of the many colognes that I foolishly ignored during and after the launch was Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium Pour Homme. I don’t remember trying the fragrance in the past, and I missed it while loving and knowing its female counterpart very well, but I think what prompted me to buy it was reading the reviews that precede me, both for the EDT and EDP versions. Yes, silly as it may sound, I simply liked the way other people outlined this masterpiece. And now I can state it is divine. Having not smelled the original, the release I have is incredibly appealing.
To begin with, let me say that despite its name, there is no trace of opium poppy in the notes or accords. The name just suggests the mystery and exoticism of the Far East, and that’s it. Opium pour Homme Eau de Toilette and Opium (1977) Parfum are two perfumes apart. I do not get any affinity between the two right off the bat. If, on the one hand, it disappoints me a little, I like it because this allows me to own two masterpieces and not two copies, each a reflection of the other. Opium pour Homme is oriental, spicy, mellow, classic, powerful, with a spicy and powdery duel. Compared to Opium, the masculine one is more elegant less aggressive. Perhaps it takes off all too harshly, but then it lends mild and cosy.
Opium pour Homme unfolds with an explosion of the powdery and acidic accord, made of bergamot and lemon, and I bet lemongrass, so clearly noticeable on my skin. The citrus is so potent that, for a moment, I wonder if Opium pour Homme was a scent for hot weather. I let the harshness lower slightly, and a light, fruity, woody note emerges with a somewhat animalic touch. This is black currant, with its bittersweet forest green vibe. I feel it is very fruity, juicy, mellowed, and it could cause the initial citrus accents. This captivating scent interacts with the spicier star anise, which goes well with it, but doesn’t get on the scene, as happens in renowned powerhouses like Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette. Here the nuance of anise is tame, like Gai Mattiolo Uomo Eau de Toilette, for example, not cloying or annoying. I even seem to catch the purplish lavender blossom.
A heart full of fresh spiciness comes after a bunch of minutes. The black currant note quickly fades into the background. Here the key actors are galega, which is nothing but a variety of the ginger root, and my beloved Szechuan pepper, all sweet and piquant all the way. That triplet provides an exotic spiciness and freshness to what otherwise could become a warm, almost medicinal mess.
The more it progresses, the more I notice the balmy edge and how its thick warmth envelops the entire concoction. Thanks to the powdery vanilla, it takes on a sweeter aroma, which is wrapped in that same balsamic note of the tolu and sitting on top of a cedar base. The tolu balm gives it a syrupy sweet, spicy smell, whereas the cedar provides more strength and occasionally releases its pencil shavings essence. A powdery and balmy trail remains stuck to my body. I think I have a penchant for resinoids, be they plant exudates or animal secretions. I think so because perfumes based on these ingredients, like tolu balm, give me a feeling of well-being, inner calm, comfort.
All in all, Opium pour Homme is excellently blended, never tilting the balance too much over the edge. Projection wise, the sillage is excellent before settling down to more moderate wear, and the longevity is average or above, as it lasts many hours, with no problem. If the original suits nightwear, the recent release mostly suits the daytime and evening out. The spicy and balmy facets make me reach for it in cold weather; it is utterly great all the way. What I like most about Opium pour Homme is that it genuinely embodies what I think of when I hear the words exotic, oriental, gummy. Let me give it some more tries, and I am sure I will find out more about this.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since January 2022.
-Elysium
To begin with, let me say that despite its name, there is no trace of opium poppy in the notes or accords. The name just suggests the mystery and exoticism of the Far East, and that’s it. Opium pour Homme Eau de Toilette and Opium (1977) Parfum are two perfumes apart. I do not get any affinity between the two right off the bat. If, on the one hand, it disappoints me a little, I like it because this allows me to own two masterpieces and not two copies, each a reflection of the other. Opium pour Homme is oriental, spicy, mellow, classic, powerful, with a spicy and powdery duel. Compared to Opium, the masculine one is more elegant less aggressive. Perhaps it takes off all too harshly, but then it lends mild and cosy.
Opium pour Homme unfolds with an explosion of the powdery and acidic accord, made of bergamot and lemon, and I bet lemongrass, so clearly noticeable on my skin. The citrus is so potent that, for a moment, I wonder if Opium pour Homme was a scent for hot weather. I let the harshness lower slightly, and a light, fruity, woody note emerges with a somewhat animalic touch. This is black currant, with its bittersweet forest green vibe. I feel it is very fruity, juicy, mellowed, and it could cause the initial citrus accents. This captivating scent interacts with the spicier star anise, which goes well with it, but doesn’t get on the scene, as happens in renowned powerhouses like Azzaro pour Homme Eau de Toilette. Here the nuance of anise is tame, like Gai Mattiolo Uomo Eau de Toilette, for example, not cloying or annoying. I even seem to catch the purplish lavender blossom.
A heart full of fresh spiciness comes after a bunch of minutes. The black currant note quickly fades into the background. Here the key actors are galega, which is nothing but a variety of the ginger root, and my beloved Szechuan pepper, all sweet and piquant all the way. That triplet provides an exotic spiciness and freshness to what otherwise could become a warm, almost medicinal mess.
The more it progresses, the more I notice the balmy edge and how its thick warmth envelops the entire concoction. Thanks to the powdery vanilla, it takes on a sweeter aroma, which is wrapped in that same balsamic note of the tolu and sitting on top of a cedar base. The tolu balm gives it a syrupy sweet, spicy smell, whereas the cedar provides more strength and occasionally releases its pencil shavings essence. A powdery and balmy trail remains stuck to my body. I think I have a penchant for resinoids, be they plant exudates or animal secretions. I think so because perfumes based on these ingredients, like tolu balm, give me a feeling of well-being, inner calm, comfort.
All in all, Opium pour Homme is excellently blended, never tilting the balance too much over the edge. Projection wise, the sillage is excellent before settling down to more moderate wear, and the longevity is average or above, as it lasts many hours, with no problem. If the original suits nightwear, the recent release mostly suits the daytime and evening out. The spicy and balmy facets make me reach for it in cold weather; it is utterly great all the way. What I like most about Opium pour Homme is that it genuinely embodies what I think of when I hear the words exotic, oriental, gummy. Let me give it some more tries, and I am sure I will find out more about this.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since January 2022.
-Elysium
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