Alberto Morillas is primarily known for airy-light, fresh, transparent fragrances and consistently creates wonderful works in this area.
Here he has taken on vetiver, a note that is rather atypical for him, and manages to create a very agreeable, fresh yet distinctive scent that blows away the musty sides of the sweet grass.
It opens with a very fresh, almost spritzy citrus note. Slightly unripe-green and wonderfully clear in its restrained bitterness. A hint of basic sweetness and fruitiness is added by the orangey mandarin, resulting in a balance of soft and bitter citrus notes. It is immediately underscored by a subtle spiciness that I cannot pinpoint more closely. Most likely slightly sour-peppery, but also softly aromatic with minimal soapy qualities. It is very muted and always allows the citrus to take the lead. An overall effortless, fresh and well-groomed impression is created. This is not disturbed by the namesake vetiver, which sets in after a few minutes. This is a classic grassy-earthy vetiver, albeit in very reduced dosage. This avoids its otherwise quickly dominant characteristic and it integrates seamlessly and almost imperceptibly into the overall composition. In the base, I perceive a very subtle, delicately soapy musk cleanliness that beautifully captures and continues the ongoing freshness. There, a molecule becomes somewhat more noticeable, which reminds me of Paradisone and brings a moderately synthetic, slightly masculine connotation of sharpness that gives it a continuous permeability.
Overall, the fragrance is very understated and feels like an Eau de Cologne. After an hour, it is close to the skin. With generous application, it can last about half a day.
Conclusion:
Alberto Morillas has designed a very fresh representative of the sweet grass scent here, without a stiff or outdated demeanor, as vetiver fragrances can often radiate. Completely in the tradition of Spanish vetiver fragrances like "Vetiver Hombre," which often combine the component with a strong hesperidic note. However, I would almost describe it as a spicy bergamot scent, as the citrus-green and spicy elements prevail. The fragrance conveys a sense of effortless, well-groomed, unexcited, and slightly characterful freshness that fits equally well in casual and formal situations, radiating much elegance. It is recommended for anyone who does not particularly like this specific scent note or feels a light or somewhat ambivalent fascination for it. It is also a recommendation for all citrus lovers who often find citrus fragrances too flat or one-dimensional.
Supplement from December 13, 2021 (for comparison of the different versions):
I have all three different versions in my possession ("Vetiver Babylone" {up to 2015}, "Vetiver d'Hiver (old)" {from 2015 to 2018}, "Vetiver d'Hiver (new)" - blue color of the liquid {from 2019}) and can say that they all smell exactly the same and do not differ in longevity and sillage. From my perspective, there were therefore no reformulations in the course of the name or bottle change.