Top Notes 
Yuzu
Apple
Bergamot
Pink pepper
Recursive Rose
Heart Notes 
Deerskin
Geranium
Patchouli
Sage
Base Notes 
Amber
Birch
Sequoia
Tree moss
Elysium
915 Reviews
Elysium
3
The Smoothness Of The Deer
N.04 Solar Musk is the last of four items from the Colonias Intensas collection by La Martina (aka Coleccion Privada). I found the entire series in an Italian drugstore and the price was really ridiculous, 19.90 euros for the 80 ml bottle. There were no testers available, but the keynotes listed on the packaging said enough to buy it blind. Magic box, when you remove the top cover, the box opens and blooms like a flower. Well, the bottle doesn’t have the bulky black cap, which I believe was removed after the first launch to save some money. The sprayer is now golden, with Coleccion Privada printed around it, without the cap.
The bright yellow bottle releases an intense cloud of slightly herbaceous citrus, with prominent notes of bergamot and behind, a tamed yuzu. I can detect the Japanese citrus, which I first encountered in L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Eau de Toilette, but here they are not so excessive and add an extra touch of bergamot. In addition to this citrusy, slightly sour aspect, there is also a sweet spicy touch that comes from a whiff of pink pepper that peeks out between the citrus peels. Instead, I almost barely perceive the fruity notes of the apple, which is a good thing for me since I’m not a fan of scents in which the apple is dominant. This tart accord slowly fades to reveal the unmistakable juicy note of pineapple, which is not mentioned but appears a few minutes after opening, when the scent begins to settle and interact with the skin, very bright and fresh. Much more noticeable result on hot skin than the paper strip. The citrus scent makes it effervescent, in contrast with the sweetness of the other fruits.
While the sour and semi-fruity notes shine, the heart develops accords of fresh and spicy sage, with a good amount of aromatic geranium, a little green and a little rosé. The pineapple-like aroma is still present in the background, albeit more subtly. So far I haven’t detected the earthy facet of the patchouli nor the animalic suede of the deer. They are certainly so refined and polished that they are pleasing to the public and not unpleasant.
And then comes the smoky, woody and slightly leathery base. The incorporation of redwood and oakmoss adds depth and warmth to the fragrance. The more it develops, the more it releases the salty and musky aspects of amber. The base is dry, woody, without sweetness. The leatheriness is smooth, not animalic, courtesy of the birch, which is more delicate than labdanum or saffron.
The DNA of Aventus and Orion Extrait de Parfum is the same. I imagine this type of fragrance has inspired Barbara Zoebelein. She then added yuzu, buckskin, and redwood just to make the original formula a little different. But the overall aroma remains the same. As an intense cologne, it gets on the skin quickly, even though it smells nice. After following its entire journey, I feel like saying that Solar Musk is an aromatic fougère perfume, which on the nose highlights woody olfactory notes, followed by those of leather, vegetal musk and musk, smoky, fruity, earthy, fresh spicy, citrusy. The atmosphere is the one much appreciated by fans of niche perfumes for its olfactory complexity.
A trail of salty, smoky birch oozes from the paper towels and tissues the day after. The performance is moderate, not like the niche it draws inspiration from. The projection is fine for an hour, but in the following hours, only a scent remains on the skin. Longevity is around half a day, like most colognes. It is a spring, summer and autumn perfume, very versatile, good for office and leisure. Day and evening are the perfect time to wear it.
I'm basing my review on a bottle I've owned since December 2023 (BC 2304 307A).
-Elysium
The bright yellow bottle releases an intense cloud of slightly herbaceous citrus, with prominent notes of bergamot and behind, a tamed yuzu. I can detect the Japanese citrus, which I first encountered in L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme Eau de Toilette, but here they are not so excessive and add an extra touch of bergamot. In addition to this citrusy, slightly sour aspect, there is also a sweet spicy touch that comes from a whiff of pink pepper that peeks out between the citrus peels. Instead, I almost barely perceive the fruity notes of the apple, which is a good thing for me since I’m not a fan of scents in which the apple is dominant. This tart accord slowly fades to reveal the unmistakable juicy note of pineapple, which is not mentioned but appears a few minutes after opening, when the scent begins to settle and interact with the skin, very bright and fresh. Much more noticeable result on hot skin than the paper strip. The citrus scent makes it effervescent, in contrast with the sweetness of the other fruits.
While the sour and semi-fruity notes shine, the heart develops accords of fresh and spicy sage, with a good amount of aromatic geranium, a little green and a little rosé. The pineapple-like aroma is still present in the background, albeit more subtly. So far I haven’t detected the earthy facet of the patchouli nor the animalic suede of the deer. They are certainly so refined and polished that they are pleasing to the public and not unpleasant.
And then comes the smoky, woody and slightly leathery base. The incorporation of redwood and oakmoss adds depth and warmth to the fragrance. The more it develops, the more it releases the salty and musky aspects of amber. The base is dry, woody, without sweetness. The leatheriness is smooth, not animalic, courtesy of the birch, which is more delicate than labdanum or saffron.
The DNA of Aventus and Orion Extrait de Parfum is the same. I imagine this type of fragrance has inspired Barbara Zoebelein. She then added yuzu, buckskin, and redwood just to make the original formula a little different. But the overall aroma remains the same. As an intense cologne, it gets on the skin quickly, even though it smells nice. After following its entire journey, I feel like saying that Solar Musk is an aromatic fougère perfume, which on the nose highlights woody olfactory notes, followed by those of leather, vegetal musk and musk, smoky, fruity, earthy, fresh spicy, citrusy. The atmosphere is the one much appreciated by fans of niche perfumes for its olfactory complexity.
A trail of salty, smoky birch oozes from the paper towels and tissues the day after. The performance is moderate, not like the niche it draws inspiration from. The projection is fine for an hour, but in the following hours, only a scent remains on the skin. Longevity is around half a day, like most colognes. It is a spring, summer and autumn perfume, very versatile, good for office and leisure. Day and evening are the perfect time to wear it.
I'm basing my review on a bottle I've owned since December 2023 (BC 2304 307A).
-Elysium
2 Comments
Elysium
3lbows
