Karl New York Mercer Street Karl Lagerfeld 2020

About five years ago, compared to writing this piece, Karl Lagerfeld launched two new perfume collections on the market. The first, which gave rise to a series of annual launches, was Les Parfumes Matières, dedicated to woods for the men's line and flowers for the women's line. I'm talking about "Bois de ..." and "Fleur de ...". The second released a few years later was Karl City, dedicated to Karl's favourite places and streets scattered in various world capitals. And it is precisely one of these fragrances from the latest collection that I want to tell you my impressions today. It is essential to know that the name Mercer Street is a place that exists in New York. It is this place that inspired Madame Eleanor Massenet to create this perfume. If I smell this fragrance, my imagination draws tall skyscrapers, numerous people moving frantically, and a mixture of distinct smells from houses, shops, and underground. I bought this perfume in 2021, impulsively as it was on sale, but had put it back in the closet waiting for the right time and weather and hadn't worn it yet, until now.
I am somewhat surprised to see that there are no comments or reviews of this admirable gemstone yet. It is a shame because this is not an ordinary cologne but something exceptional and intimate, almost like the invisible touch of a caress. Karl New York Mercer Street is the kind of perfume that I call dry, dreary, like a sheet of paper, made of white spices, white flowers, white musk, and white woods with fresh and cottony smells. It features a citrus accord combined with the warmth of white pepper and the herbaceous top notes of sweet basil and green rhubarb, complemented by floral heart notes. The base notes of wood and white musk add an irresistible touch. Let's delve into it.

The pale grey semi-azure cologne opens with an outbreak of citrus, minty, and a greenish, subtle alcoholic accord, reminiscent of tropical cocktails like a lime and brown sugar mojito crunched basil leaves as a variation for mint. The presence of white pepper adds warmth and crisp air, even if it's not too strong on the spicy but just right to balance the other elements. Imagine crunching some white peppercorn on top of your changed mojito, and that's it. Soon, the more the citrus calms, the clearer the white corns. The punchy rhubarb is detectable but not dominant, greener than sweet, nicely adding a tart freshness. It is a beautiful opening, pleasant, fresh like a spring morning, a fresh shirt out of the wardrobe.

The perfume becomes angelic and floral in the heart. A hint of watery jasmine adds light to the picture, very light and not too indolic or cloying. At the same time, a patch of pelargonium leaf balances the darker shades, thus giving rise to a perfect chiaroscuro. The nose seamlessly blended geranium with jasmine. The blend is pleasantly aromatic, fresh and moist, like raindrops falling on the SoHo neighbourhood in Lower Manhattan during a sudden drizzle in the middle of a morning stroll. I bet the heart is hiding something watery, for example, a violet leaf. I say this because a precious aquatic nuance rises from the skin, neither salty nor marine, only watery, limpid, and transparent as the alpha-iso methyl ionone.

Ultimately, the scent turns smoothly woody in the dry-down with some muskiness and a hint of earthiness. As I said earlier, it features many white elements, making the essence dry and cold. There is a smidgen of pencil shavings and a whisper of cedar, which blends with earthy vetiver and shares the mossiness of the cotton and sheer white musk.
When I first used it, I thought I was in Central Park in New York, sitting on a bench among the yellow leaves around me, so peaceful and calm. There are pleasant smells all around, and I feel calm. It seems to me that this is a beautiful sensation when a perfume evokes pleasant sensations and reveals fantasy.

Bottom line, in my taste, this is a perfectly balanced fragrance, incredibly fresh and very clean smelling. Both projection and sillage are good, unlike many scents of the same type, which can quickly dissolve in the air. Longevity is also good with delicious, fresh and sweet twists. Completely harmless and perfect for the office. I highly recommend it for spring and summer, especially on warmer evenings.

I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since August 2021.

-Elysium

Now I really have to write a comment about this fragrance, as it has been accompanying me constantly on these hot days and I am truly enthusiastic.
Actually, I never wear men's fragrances; they are usually just too spicy, bitter, too intense, and masculine for me. But New York Mercer Street is different... It starts off zesty, fresh, and lightly green.
I smell the lime and the basil, which remains distinctly noticeable on my skin until the end and blends wonderfully with the lime and the floral notes in the heart, especially the geranium.
In the base, it becomes a bit warmer and slightly woody; it reminds me a little of Dolce and Gabbana Light Blue now.
A really beautiful summer fragrance with good longevity and a good price :)

Sometimes it echoes all the way to New York. Or is it the many fresh greens with which the city is increasingly surrounded? With parks, green roofs, cascading plants on facades, and much more? It's hard to say for sure, but it definitely smells wonderfully spicy and fresh.
It is neither an "aquatic" nor a wood scent, nor a fougère or a "shower gel scent"!
It is a colorful mix of everything. It has a cool spiciness from the pepper, a sunny side with the lime and the geranium, which almost smells like "rosy mint." Then there are bitter-sour fruity accents from the rhubarb, herby greens from the basil, and then "light shadows" from the woods and a bit of vetiver. And it is a "year-round perfume" that, thanks to moderate sillage, never becomes too much, even though it lasts a long time. Up to 7 hours on the skin and at least half a day on clothing. So that you are always surrounded by a pleasant "odeur." Karl's "diverse-fresh" :-))

... I opened the window in the morning and inhaled the freshness of the mountains. The air is clear, clean, and cold, while also carrying citrus and floral scents. I get ready for breakfast and then head down relaxed to take a little trip into the mountains.

Upon applying this fragrance, the first thing that hits the nose is a citrusy green with a slight spicy note. This is soon followed by a mildly sour rhubarb note mixed with floral accords. The scent is rounded off with woody accords, which become subtly creamy due to the musk and dry from the vetiver.

The longevity and sillage are average.

This is a perfume for adult men or those who consider themselves as such. It is also a versatile fragrance that can be worn year-round. I see its use primarily in the office and generally during the day.

Anyone who enjoys a fresh, slightly sour citrus scent will feel right at home here.

The headline is, of course, a reference to Acqua di Giò pour Homme Eau de Toilette, which makes sense as a comparison fragrance. The DNA of this scent is recognizable quite quickly and is characterized by a bright, fresh seriousness that - depending on the version - is enriched with metallic notes; something that 360° Red for Men has picked up very strongly. Karl New York Mercer Street is a bit different, as it primarily alters two components that positively surprised me.

At the beginning, you get the DNA I just described, which immediately associates you with Acqua di Giò pour Homme Eau de Toilette. Bright citrus that comes across as green, unsweetened, and mature. I like this type of fragrance, even though it does carry a certain synthetic quality. Interesting in this phase is an undertone that defines the greenness; it is probably the indicated rhubarb, which for a brief moment not only gives the impression of greenery but also of tartness. I have read here and there that this particular aspect has put some people off. And I can understand that, because it is not at all what one expects. At the same time, it is at least an idea of how to make the opening exciting (even if the rhubarb is listed as a heart note). And to be honest, this impression doesn't last long anyway, because once you get through the opening (about after 20 minutes), the fragrance becomes much softer.

The rhubarb, or at least what one perceives as rhubarb (you never know if the brain is just telling you that because you read it here in the fragrance pyramid...), is thus the first component that has been altered. The second component would be the soft drydown. What you get in one version or another, such as in Acqua di Giò Parfum, with metallic notes is here interpreted cleanly through cotton and light musk. One could argue that this makes it somewhat simpler due to this decision, but for me, it simply makes it more suitable for everyday wear. I really enjoyed spraying it on right after showering and going about my day. It's not loud, but you wear it like a second skin.

Whether in casual everyday life or as an office scent: I think you get something really fine here. Unobtrusive, mature, and after a somewhat uneven initial phase, no longer synthetic at all, bright and fresh: a versatile fragrance that you absolutely cannot tell comes from a drugstore!