Naruemit

นฤมิต

Prin 2023

A rancid floral opening eventually settles into spicy green citrus over a classic earthy chypre structure. The citrus, florals and mossy greens are all fairly traditional, but a subtle animalic edge keeps it from feeling completely predictable. Basic by Prin standards, but very well executed. but not worth the full bottle

Naruemit opens with a sharp burst of yuzu, immediately contrasted by the animalic depth of civet and deer musk. The citrus is bright and piercing, while the animal notes add darkness and weight beneath it. A faint sweetness briefly smooths the opening before the fragrance begins its transition.

As it develops, the freshness turns green, then steadily grows more grounded and dense. The greenery settles into an earthy, compact character, like a well-worn dirt road leading toward a dark forest. The animalic notes remain present but restrained, supporting the structure rather than dominating it. In the final stages of the drydown, the sharp yuzu returns, now paired with a faint trace of green, creating a dry, yet sharp feeling.

Prin is throwing out new releases at a rapid pace. As I am getting more familiar with his work, I am also getting a slight sense of repetition. Naruemit seems to me another variation of his standard formula.

The top notes are the variation part, it seems. They are particularly fresh and consist of yuzu, bergamot and supposedly also verbena. A dose of civet comes along, which made me look for a dramatic floral heart. That did not happen. Instead, a slow-cooking transition into the earthy-musky base notes takes place without any notable mid.

Prin's signature use of cumin, camphor and muskroot feels highly comfortable as always, but there is little deviation from the rest of the line. As a stand-alone perfume it is still very worthwhile, though.