DonQuijote

This fragrance is a small masterpiece.
I have experienced very few scents where the individual ingredients are so well intertwined to create a harmonious overall experience, as with this one.
The opening is floral-citrusy, but not "fresh," rather, let's say, greenish.
At first, it reminds me of the typical drugstore scent that small independent pharmacies used to have. It can't be compared at all to Rossmann, DM, and the like.
I noticed this in some Schlecker branches as well, but much more in the independent pharmacies that used to exist more often than they do today.
There, the smell of floor wax, mothballs, and lavender sachets mingled, with a hint of laundry detergent alongside 4711 Cologne, a touch of hairspray, and Nivea cream. Now, nothing in Chypre-Siam smells like any of that - but if someone still remembers how it smelled in those stores, they might understand what I'm trying to express.

As the fragrance develops, I sense a bit of jasmine - however, I find it extremely difficult to pick out individual notes, as they truly form a unity.
I also get oakmoss, and after about 2 hours, a bit more sweetness breaks through, which was only subtly noticeable at first.
Leather? Civet? Definitely present, but I can't pick it out. In any case, there's no animalic quality present.

A resinous/balsamic note then accompanies me for the rest of the fragrance's development.

I think it's a more than successful chypre scent that I enjoy smelling on my wrist and can always take pleasure in. I love this little olfactory journey into my childhood. Is it wearable for me in everyday life? I don't think so; I find it too "old school."

But sometimes, you don't have to carry a fragrance into the world; occasionally, it’s enough if the fragrance carries you into its world.

Classy piece.

I have now worn Ivory Route a few times on my skin and I am quite taken with it.
Right after application, 40 Knots came to mind. However, this is certainly not a 40 Knots clone or anything like that, but there is a slight idea of it lingering.

The opening is citrusy, vanilla-creamy, and reminds me a bit of Ahoi fizz powder. Not overwhelmingly prominent, but definitely noticeable.
A light honey sweetness joins in, although I would not categorize the scent as sweet, let alone gourmand.
After about an hour, I then perceive a fruitiness that reminds me of apple. Subtle, mind you, and - like everything in this fragrance - phenomenally woven.

White musk and incense are now gaining momentum. The two are also noticeable earlier, but only unfold in their full glory later.
By the way, the scent is far from being an incense monster. I find the incense rather subtle compared to, for example, Encens Suave Eau de Parfum.
The whole thing ends with a pleasantly soft ambiance and lasts easily 12 hours on my skin.
Overall, Ivory Route is not a projection monster or "Beast Mode" scent. (Terminology that tends to repel me rather than attract me)
It is well noticeable, lasts long, and surrounds the wearer with an aura rather than a scent bubble.

The changes in the scent progression are noticeable, but rather minimal or fluid.
A successful fragrance for actually the whole year, except perhaps the peak summer.

First of all: I have not tested the Guilty Elixir de Parfum pour Homme before. So if you want to know how this one compares, you would have to check out the other reviews.

The Guilty Absolu de Parfum pour Homme starts on my skin and in my nose with a good portion of Ariel, alternatively Persil laundry detergent. Basically like back in Grandma's laundry room.
Soapy, clean, and with a restrained temperament - at least regarding the initial scent impression. On my skin, I also get benzoin relatively early, and it remains intensely noticeable the whole time.
For the first 1-2 hours, it somehow reminds me of "The Tragedy of Lord George | Penhaligon's"

I find the scent progression to be quite linear; not much really happens on my skin.
Tonka and vanilla, as well as benzoin, are always present, embedded in this soapy note. A floral component is also present - but I couldn't necessarily assign it to orange; if magnolia were listed in the fragrance pyramid, I could probably agree with that.
The almond occasionally flashes through, but far less intensely and prominently than, for example, in L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum.
Leather... yes, I search in vain for leather here... but maybe I'm just too spoiled by the leather bombers from Francesca Bianchi & Co. And rum? Well, maybe Ariel just washed everything out, who knows.

In the end, it becomes a bit more balsamic, honey-sweet, yet the floral-soapy note seems to linger forever. But that's perfectly fine.
In my opinion, the scent is office-compatible if you don't overdo it, as it has, even though the scent impression is restrained/"clean", quite a bit of power. More than 3 sprays and it would be too much of a good thing.

Conclusion:
A well-made scent with a bit of a character flaw, but compatible with many occasions. However, too little happens for me to buy a whole bottle.

I like the scents from Bois1920.
Above all, the Classic 1920 and the unfortunately discontinued 1920 Extreme. I wasn't familiar with Oltremare Eau de Parfum and was on the verge of making a blind purchase.
It so happened that a Parfumo offered a sharing of the fragrance, and I was able to secure 5ml.
I have now worn the scent several times on my skin and feel I have sniffed enough to share my impressions.

About the scent:
Shortly after spraying, I am enveloped in a cloud of rhubarb. Not of the subtle kind, but rather very present. However, the rhubarb has a slightly sharp note for my nose. It's not Ambrocenide or anything like that, but somehow it reminds me of pubescent boys after sports - at least in my memory - it's been quite a while since then ;)
A citrus note joins the rhubarb, and this combo remains unchanged on the skin for quite a while. However, I don't perceive the whole thing as "fresh," but rather somewhat muted and too voluminous.
After 30-60 minutes, if I concentrate very hard, I can perceive the teen note listed in the pyramid. However, my perception may be misleading here, and it could be Mugane - of which I unfortunately don't know what it is or what it should smell like. In any case, it's not a very pronounced teen note, like the one present in Imagination.
Overall, the scent becomes more transparent and opens up a bit. Rhubarb is still there, but no longer so demanding and present.
After about 2.5-3 hours, it becomes a bit woodier, cozier, and remains unchanged until the end. It reminds me of Water | Cedar | Lime - if anyone knows that one.
After 12 hours, I can still perceive the scent up close.

Surely this is somewhat a spring and summer scent.
However, I somehow miss the freshness and the zest and lightness. The rhubarb note is definitely something special, and for those who appreciate this scent note, Oltremare is definitely recommended.
Objectively, it's a well-made scent, but I am glad to have only acquired a decant.

Folks, this is a scent, I tell you.
Café Tabac starts with a distinctly noticeable clove note on my skin.
It may sound a bit off-putting to some, but let me tell you, it is only briefly present and not overwhelming. It reminds me a bit of those Indian clove cigarettes, if anyone knows them - because tobacco joins in shortly after, but more on that later.

Following the clove, a wonderful, bright honey mixes in.
A creamy, rather firm linden blossom or rapeseed honey.
I have never encountered such a honey note before. Sweet, but by no means super-gourmand.
A distant sweetness - if that can be grasped in some way.
If there are any pipe smokers among you: Mac Barren Navy Flake 1:1.
Incredibly delicious.

Somewhere in between, a hint of cardamom flashes through.
And now, stay with me: lightly burnt caramel.
This is so incredibly good, I lack words.
This is not a Christmas baker's sugar scent - rather distinguished pâtisserie.
The comparison may be off? So be it.
Vanilla, which skillfully weaves itself in, agrees with me.

Despite this density, the scent never feels overloaded or overwhelming. Perfectly crafted and blended.

Gradually, the cedar comes into play, which sets a few well-tempered edges and brings the whole thing to an almost balsamic finish.

If you’ve always wanted to bathe in a honey pot while smoking - here is your scent.
Legendary!

Update: I have now also tested "By the Fireplace | Maison Margiela."
Café Tabac was definitely inspired by "by the Fireplace."
"Café Tabac" is like the unleashed version - more of everything and stronger. I prefer this one.