Feuerfuchs

Today I would like to introduce you to a fragrance that is very dear to me. Although its ingredients may seem simple at first glance, it is nevertheless difficult to put into words - a paradox that speaks to its special magic.

As a child, I never had direct contact with frankincense in church. I think this is because it is more celebrated in the Catholic Church, while I grew up in the Protestant Church. Nevertheless, frankincense has always fascinated me in the world of fragrances. There are so many different varieties, each with its own character - a diversity that I find incredibly exciting. Many associate frankincense with sacred spaces, with churches or temples, and I also have a personal memory that I would like to share later.

My first impression of Via dell'Incenso

I discovered the fragrance just before Christmas in Düsseldorf when I wanted to treat my wife and myself to something nice. I was already familiar with the brand but had not tested any of their fragrances until then. So, I had various scents from the brand presented to me - and then came Via dell'Incenso. As soon as I sprayed it, I stopped and consciously took the time to let it unfold on me.

Only a few fragrances have the power to transport you so immediately to another world as Via dell'Incenso does. From the very first spray, an aura of sacred calm and elevated elegance unfolds. However, this frankincense scent is not a heavy, dark church; it is a modern, refined interpretation that is surprisingly multifaceted and wearable.

For me, this fragrance is inseparably linked to a very special place: the historic monastery "Ermita de Sant Salvador" on Puig Sant Salvador in the municipality of Felanitx in southeastern Mallorca. Whenever I smell Via dell'Incenso, memories of this unique place come flooding back. An absolute insider tip for anyone visiting Mallorca!


Now let’s talk about the fragrance development:

The opening surprises with an unexpected freshness. Zesty lemon and bergamot create a bright, almost sparkling moment, perfectly balanced by the slightly resinous dryness of cedar. No worries, Via dell'Incenso is by no means a classic citrus fragrance. This freshness serves rather as a perfect introduction, allowing the frankincense to settle lightly on the skin.

After a few minutes, the fragrance unfolds further. A sweet, creamy nuance comes to the forefront. It comes from the vanilla flower, which gives the frankincense a gentle, almost balsamic depth. As a result, it never feels too strict or dry. The vanilla is a brilliant addition here, making the fragrance soft and rounded. The orchid, on the other hand, I hardly perceive personally.

In the base, the frankincense shows itself in all its glory. But instead of being oppressively heavy, it remains airy and elevated. Carried by the warm, slightly smoky depth of guaiac wood. The pine brings a resinous, almost green freshness into play, reminiscent of Mediterranean forests. This combination creates a lasting presence that never feels intrusive.

A fitting comparison would be the Berserker by Marc Gebauer. In my opinion, both fragrances are very similar. However, Via dell'Incenso is perfectly balanced: The vanilla makes it pleasantly creamy and soft, while the pine provides freshness without making the fragrance feel cool. A wonderfully balanced frankincense scent with character! The Berserker, on the other hand, feels cold, more in-your-face, and angular.

The longevity and sillage:

The longevity is excellent. Via dell'Incenso effortlessly lasts 6-8 hours on the skin and clings to clothing even longer. Initially, I found the rather subtle sillage unusual, but over time I have come to appreciate it. A more intense fragrance development might have felt overwhelming - both for me and for those around me. As it is, it is perfect: The frankincense remains ever-present but never overwhelming.


My comparison with other fragrances:

Marc Gebauer - Berserker: Another great frankincense fragrance that closely resembles Via dell'Incenso. However, Berserker feels colder, more angular, and not as harmoniously balanced.

Amouage - Interlude Man: Both fragrances share the distinctive frankincense DNA, but Interlude Man is significantly heavier, smokier, and has an almost impenetrable intensity. Via dell'Incenso, on the other hand, remains brighter, more elegant, and modern.

Comme des Garçons - Avignon: Avignon embodies an extremely dry, sacred frankincense scent, while Via dell'Incenso gains more complexity and a softer, more accessible aura through floral and citrus notes.


My conclusion about the fragrance:

Via dell'Incenso is a masterful interpretation of frankincense. The artistic balance between fresh lightness and creamy frankincense note is perfectly calibrated. It feels elegant, never overwhelming, yet remains characterful. For frankincense lovers, it offers a wonderfully wearable alternative to the often heavy and dominant frankincense compositions found in niche perfumery.

And it always reminds me of the monastery in Mallorca where I had a wonderful experience.

BDK is known for wearable fragrances with a special sophistication. Gris Charnel has long established itself as a modern classic, and the Extrait version promises a more intense, deeper interpretation of this popular perfume. The BDK brand is often associated with Gris Charnel, particularly because of the characteristic fig note. Over the weekend, I thoroughly tested the Extrait version and would like to share my impressions.

My first impression and fragrance development:

The first spray reveals a spicy freshness of cardamom, which, together with the green and fruity accents of fig, unfolds a lively, slightly sweet note. However, the Extrait possesses more depth than its predecessor. The black tea adds a smoky, almost bitter elegance to the fragrance, which harmonizes wonderfully with the earthy warmth of patchouli.

In the heart of the fragrance, the iris comes to the forefront, providing a velvety softness, while bourbon vetiver adds a dry, green-woody facet. Here it becomes clear that the Extrait is a more mature, intense version of the original - less playful, but more sensual and refined.

The base note ultimately reveals the full power of the Extrait: sandalwood provides a creamy warmth, while vanilla and tonka bean contribute a subtle sweetness. Particularly noteworthy is the smoky note, which gives the fragrance a mysterious depth without making it feel heavy.

The longevity and sillage of the fragrance:

With a concentration of 30%, the performance is not surprising. On my skin, the fragrance lasts easily ten hours, even longer on clothing. The sillage is strong at first, then develops into an intimate scent cloud - ideal for elegant occasions or special evenings. At the same time, it is also suitable for everyday wear without being intrusive or bothersome.

Design & Bottle:

The bottle remains true to the classic BDK line - simple, elegant, and of high quality. The color of the glass is slightly darker than that of the Eau de Parfum version, visually emphasizing the deeper and smokier nature of the fragrance. The spray head is perfectly fine.

My conclusion about the fragrance:

BDK Gris Charnel Extrait is a refined, more sensual interpretation of the classic. Those who appreciate darker, earthier fragrances with spicy depth will find this appealing. Personally, I miss the radiant freshness of the fig from the original, but the Extrait gains depth, warmth, and elegance. A fragrance for lovers of more intense, woody-spicy compositions.

Today, I am dedicating myself to a fragrance that has caught my attention for quite some time: Orange Flamingo. How did I come across this scent? It was a chance encounter while strolling with my wife at Breuninger in Düsseldorf. At the very top of the men's department, I discovered a small stand managed by a woman (Marc's wife) whom I recognized from YouTube - she was presenting the fragrances of Marc Gebauer. Curious, I took some fragrance samples with me, and although I initially had no specific scent in mind, I was immediately captivated by "By Appointment | Gebauer & Gebauer" and purchased it. Of course, I also found the other fragrances by Marc very good, but you know how it is - when you have a scent in focus, the others often fall by the wayside. Nevertheless, I enjoyed smelling the test strip of Orange Flamingo and thus had my first encounter with this extraordinary fragrance.

My interest in "Orange Flamingo" was piqued when I was looking for a new summer scent with good performance. I had several fragrances to choose from, especially the newly released Purple Flamingo. But I also thought that Bergamask was an incredibly great fragrance. I sprayed all three scents on my skin and left for an hour or two to see how they developed. I ran a few errands but quickly knew which fragrance I would choose. "Orange Flamingo" has an impressive presence and an incredibly long-lasting scent - something that is unusual for a summer fragrance.

I have always wanted an orange scent and had also found one from Concentré d'Orange Verte that I actually liked quite a bit. However, the only downside to these citrus fragrances was their poor longevity. Additionally, citrus scents can quickly become off-putting for me if the citrus note is too shaky - almost like cat litter. Particularly lemon or orange can quickly smell stale, like at grandma's. There were already good fragrances back then, such as from #Acqua di Parma, but the longevity was so poor that I wasn't willing to spend so much money on a fragrance that lasts only ten minutes.

Therefore, I was naturally very curious about "Orange Flamingo" by Marc Gebauer, as these fragrances are known to have a very high concentration of fragrance oils. I believe that in summer, a citrus scent is always wearable - whether it's a cool summer day or an extremely hot summer day, whether you're going out in the evening, freshly showered, or heading to the office. You never clash and only receive compliments. I can say right away that "Orange Flamingo" gives endless compliments.

What is surprising is that I have received most of the compliments from men rather than women. Usually, it’s my friends who have smelled the fragrance and said, "You smell amazing, you have to tell me what scent that is." The focus was not so much on the orange, but rather on the fresh laundry character. At work, I was told that I leave a scent cloud on all floors that smells like fresh laundry - and who wouldn't want to smell that good?

Now to the fragrance itself:
Upon spraying, the zesty freshness of bergamot, orange, and orange blossom unfolds immediately. These top notes give the fragrance a lively, fresh aura that is perfect for warm days. The intense freshness of the orange instantly lifts the mood and creates a pleasant sense of well-being. Particularly noteworthy is the combination of fresh laundry and juicy orange, which gives the fragrance a pleasant lightness.

In the heart of the fragrance, floral and spicy notes come together. Lily of the valley and orange blossom shine here, accompanied by a subtle spiciness that adds depth and character to the fragrance. The clove brings a slight, spicy note that sometimes makes the orange seem a bit nostalgic, but it does not dominate or disturb. This harmonious balance gives the fragrance an elegant yet masculine note that is not typically harsh or sharp, but soft, smooth, and floral.

The base note of "Orange Flamingo" consists of musk and woody notes, which give the fragrance a deep and sensual dimension. This base ensures that the fragrance lingers longer on the skin and rounds off the overall impression. Fortunately, I do not perceive vanilla. I think musk and jasmine give the fragrance that fresh laundry character, which gradually becomes more pronounced.

The longevity and sillage of this fragrance are impressive. Before wearing it for the first time, I was curious about its performance, but thanks to numerous positive reports on YouTube, I already had high expectations. And "Orange Flamingo" effortlessly met them - it lasts easily 12 hours on the skin and even longer on clothing. When I wore it on a Saturday night with friends, I felt noticed, fresh, and positively affirmed all evening. I wore a white shirt, which I believe reflects the fragrance and fits perfectly. A scent that is like a reliable bank - no matter what happens, it accompanies you and makes you shine in every moment. The sillage is unmistakable; it fills not just rooms, but entire floors. At work, my colleagues have already smelled me at the entrance and know that I am there - but in a positive way. Unlike some other fragrances that can be too present and off-putting, "Orange Flamingo" only garners compliments. It is also particularly noteworthy that this fragrance is wearable even in hot temperatures. Many performance monsters can clash at times. That does not happen here.

Regarding the packaging:
It comes in a simple cardboard box that is very practical.
But the real treasure lies inside. The bottle is in a striking orange color, through which you can easily see the contents, and without any unnecessary frills.
The spray head could be improved, as it is not optimal.
The cap resembles the iconic crown of Rolex watches, which adds an elegant touch to the whole.

My conclusion about "Orange Flamingo" by Marc Gebauer is that it is an outstanding summer fragrance that impresses with its zesty freshness and sensual warmth. The combination of various notes creates a harmonious and elegant overall picture that can be worn both during the day and in the evening. With its impressive longevity and sillage, as well as its versatility, this fragrance is an absolute highlight and a must-have for any fragrance collection.
For me, "Orange Flamingo" may be the best release from Marc Gebauer. It uniquely combines freshness, elegance, and masculinity and sets new standards for summer fragrances.

Today, I finally come to a special fragrance that has piqued my curiosity for quite some time: Oud Maracuja.
It wasn't easy to obtain, as many perfumeries did not carry it.
Thanks to a generous sample from @Dok (thank you once again for that), I was finally able to test it at home. I first sprayed it on a test strip to see what awaited me. The description had already heightened my anticipation, especially since I am already a fan of "Ombre Nomade | Louis Vuitton." But the combination with passion fruit made me even more excited. Now, finally, to the fragrance itself.

The combination of oud and passion fruit is a bold step that proves to be brilliant.
This fragrance surprises with unexpected textures and aromas that arise from a decisive moment - a passionate encounter between the exotic passion fruit and the distant oud wood landscapes. The result? A fragrance that is absolutely unconventional. The oud used is by no means animalic or unpleasant, but perfectly executed.

What makes this fragrance so special is the contrast between the luxurious oud and the lively passion fruit notes.
It's as if you are diving into a world where the juicy aroma of passion fruit merges with an enchanting scent.
The opening is simply stunning - an almost partially creamy passion fruit that one would not expect. Fresh, juicy, and present. And as the journey continues, a mystical oud accord unfolds, enveloped by the warmth of benzoin.
It feels like a walk through a wild forest, accompanied by smoky yet simultaneously alluring notes. There are strong similarities to "Ombre Nomade | Louis Vuitton." It smells very similar, but I find it much better balanced. In contrast, Ombre Nomade is rather powerful. "Oud Maracujá | Maison Crivelli," on the other hand, is much finer, softer, and the notes are more discernible. I do not perceive the rose as strongly, nor the saffron. I think they have been subtly incorporated in the background, adding the necessary something in combination.
The heart note surprises with a fine leather note that captures the warmth of a setting sun. Then, an earthy facet of patchouli joins in, weaving the fragrance with the scent of freshly turned earth. Very beautifully executed, in my opinion, and by no means disturbing. It feels as if you can sense nature itself on your skin - a vibrant, breathing work of art.
The base notes of the fragrance provide a final touch. A harmonious duet of vanilla and Akigalawood that gives the fragrance a lasting, luxurious note. It is like the gentle conclusion of an exciting adventure.
Oud Maracujá is a fragrance that impresses with its distinctive presence.

The longevity and sillage of this fragrance are impressive. I join my predecessors in confirming that this fragrance has a strong presence. It effortlessly lasts 12 hours on the skin and even longer on clothing.
The sillage fills the room and makes the wearer distinctly noticeable. What makes this fragrance special is its versatility. You can wear it even in warm temperatures, as the passion fruit adds a certain freshness to the otherwise robust scent.

Is this fragrance necessary if you already own Ombre Nomade? In my opinion, no. But if you own neither, I would prefer "Oud Maracujá | Maison Crivelli."
Why?
For me, it is better balanced, and the passion fruit note brings something new. In contrast, the raspberry note in Ombre Nomade always reminds me a bit of "Ombré Leather (2018) (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford."

Today, I invite you into the fascinating world of an extraordinary fragrance. A few years ago, I stumbled upon the bottles of Clive Christian in the halls of Breuninger, which I had known from the forum here. Although I had never delved deeply into these scents before, curiosity overcame me and I carelessly sprayed Rock Rose on my skin. This moment marked the beginning of a captivating journey that surprised me from the very start. The name "Rock Rose" certainly evokes associations with its ingredients, but it does not fully reflect the scent's progression. For the fragrance surprises with an unexpected development that does not reveal the typical character of a rose. However, I will explain the exact scent progression in detail later.

As I strolled through the shops for a while longer, the scent of Rock Rose accompanied me every step of the way. The fascination this fragrance had on me was so strong that upon returning home, I immediately searched for it online. I quickly realized that this treasure came with a price - €550 for 50ml. A number that left me astonished at first. But the more I learned about the background and philosophy of the Clive Christian brand, the clearer it became to me why these fragrances have their special price. Despite the initial surprise, Rock Rose was undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and impressive scents I have ever experienced.

But now to the actual fragrance: How did I come to it? Quite simply - I received it as a gift from my wife. Clive Christian - Noble VII - Rock Rose is undoubtedly a remarkable scent that masterfully captures the powerful and warm nuances of the rock rose. The "rock rose," also known as labdanum, gives the fragrance composition a multifaceted depth by producing both balsamic and slightly smoky as well as warm and sweet nuances.
The combination of invigorating citrus top notes, led by bergamot and a hint of black pepper, gives the fragrance a refreshing yet spicy opening. I particularly love scents that play with pepper notes, and I must admit that all the fragrances I hold in high regard possess a certain peppery note. While neroli is only subtly perceptible, it fits perfectly into the composition in my eyes.
This scent note is complemented by precious saffron and aromatic lavender. The base note of the fragrance consists of sensual amber, earthy patchouli, vetiver, and warming cocoa.

This fragrance will appeal to men who have a preference for aromatic and masculine fougère notes. It presents itself as a modern, leathery fougère fragrance that is excellent for year-round wear. Its unique scent composition gives its wearer a special aura and allows him to stand out from the crowd.

Longevity and sillage:
With a fragrance oil content of 25%, this scent is characterized by an exceptionally long-lasting presence. It unfolds over a period of more than 12 hours on the skin. Its remarkable sillage is also surprising, which, despite the high fragrance oil content, does not fall short. On the contrary, this fragrance leaves a strong impression and will definitely be noticed by others. Its presence is palpable and leaves an unmistakable scent trail.

To learn why this fragrance is named "Rock Rose" and what makes the Noble collection by Clive Christian so special, I recommend taking a look at the official Clive Christian website. There you will find a fascinating story about the era of Queen Anne, which sheds light on the background of these unique fragrances.

The bottle of Rock Rose presents itself as a true work of art. In elegant black, it features the collection's lettering as well as the name of the fragrance. The cap, which is of considerable weight and robustness, displays the crown of Queen Victoria, a symbol of the historical significance and luxury that Clive Christian embodies. The spray head is extremely precise and user-friendly.

The perfume presents an authentic, exquisite, and characterful British noble scent that gloriously interprets the classic fougère style of past eras in England.
I am thrilled and find joy in wearing it on every occasion!