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Explosive
Provocation
1986 Eau de Toilette

7.2 / 10 253 Ratings
A perfume by Aigner for women, released in 1986. The scent is spicy-floral. Projection and longevity are above-average. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Spicy
Floral
Chypre
Oriental
Woody

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
AldehydesAldehydes CorianderCoriander BergamotBergamot
Heart Notes Heart Notes
RoseRose GeraniumGeranium Lily of the valleyLily of the valley IrisIris
Base Notes Base Notes
PatchouliPatchouli MossMoss SandalwoodSandalwood VetiverVetiver AmbergrisAmbergris
Ratings
Scent
7.2253 Ratings
Longevity
8.3209 Ratings
Sillage
8.2196 Ratings
Bottle
7.2202 Ratings
Value for money
8.964 Ratings
Submitted by Lobelia · last update on 12/06/2025.
Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

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Reviews

35 in-depth fragrance descriptions
ohassan

1 Review
ohassan
ohassan
1  
Simply explosive - But in a bad way
When I smelled this for the first time i thought. "Good Lord! Just come take me and end my misery". For me, this is easily the worst smell that i had smelled that happened to come out of a perfume bottle. People seem to be reminiscing about the good ol' 80s and how much it smells like the 80s, this makes me think - How bad did the 80s actually smell like?

The perfume is truly explosive. It's locked and loaded with a Gigaton of Aldehyde. The second you spray, it punches you in the face, borderline giving the same shock that as vinegar does.

Unfortunately for me, the longevity of this perfume is actually pretty good. Simply rinsing the sprayed spot to get rid of the scent DID NOT SUFFICE.

For people that love Aldehyde, the good ol' days, or unreasonably strong scents, this may be for you. But I would definitely not recommend buying this without thoroughly testing it first.
0 Comments
Medusa00

845 Reviews
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Medusa00
Medusa00
Top Review 64  
Patriarch Killer

Men, dress warmly! Tie a knot in your underwear or adjust your boxers. Here comes the resolute Ulla! Ulla has a lively figure, hair on her teeth and on her legs!
Ulla has a mission. She will clean up in the executive suites and show the old patriarchs what’s what.
She will replace the leadership team and fill it with 50% women.
The guys who still grope their female employees, treat them condescendingly, or belittle them will be fired. Bosses who stare at their secretaries' cleavage or call them "little mouse" will find themselves out on the street without notice. A hurricane is sweeping through the skyscraper!
The taut Ulla has bathed in soap and anointed herself with herbs.
She comes with a huge bouquet of roses. No, not May roses from Grasse or pretty anemones. These roses are almost black and have been fertilized with Mars gibberellin (that’s garden soil, available at any garden center), and the thorns are already 10 cm long.
She'll throw them at Mr. X, who has scared off all the female employees who aren’t 90 - 60 - 90, only have a cup size A, crooked teeth, and too thick legs (he calls that sauerkraut stomper). Only the receptionist was allowed to stay because she is the aunt of the company tycoon.
Now the box is rattling. And gentlemen, you will be taken aback! You will have to deliver your own children in the future! Oh, you can’t imagine how painful such a birth is? Here’s a visual: Imagine someone sticking an umbrella up your backside and pulling it out fully opened. Desired C-section? Not a chance!
There’s a slight anesthetic with the sandalwood club, and Ulla isn’t so bad after all; she has mercy and chypre. You’ll also get a moist moss bed and can comfort yourselves with amber.
29 Comments
Helena1411

107 Reviews
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Helena1411
Helena1411
Top Review 44  
Flower-Spice-Boomer
It is quite astonishing how much scent perceptions can change… This is nothing new in itself, perhaps nothing worth mentioning, one might think, but it still amazes me time and again when I discover the described sensations within myself. And in a contradiction that leaves me almost (otherwise I could hardly be reporting on it here) speechless.

But perhaps I will first let you read my previous comment with a rating of 5.0 for the fragrance.

That was my original comment from just over 3 years ago:

“There they are, the 80s, shrill, colorful, and loud. And just as loud is this fragrance, catapulting us back 30 years with an explosive thrust.
I must admit, I felt torn when I wore it, as it revived childhood memories while simultaneously making me recoil due to the olfactory “BÄÄHMMM” that it inevitably brings with it. By the way, very characteristic of many perfumes from the 80s.
I couldn't identify the individual notes or - let’s say better - didn’t want to, because the recoil had clearly taken the upper hand. But this excessively present spiciness lingered, even after several attempts to wash the scent off.
If you like fragrances loud in the style of the 80s, Aigner's Explosive is just right for you; anyone else might store it as a rather, let’s say: overwhelming scent “experience.”

So much for my previous comment. And I thought - I was still quite lenient both in terms of the rating and my review, which was in fact not a really successful review, as I could neither describe the scent particularly well nor break down the individual components in detail; basically, I just found this fragrance completely and utterly unbearable and expressed that purely subjectively (as all fragrance reviews are) to the best of my ability.

Now, three good years have passed in (scent) land, I have evolved from a sweet lover to a herb lover, become an absolute fan of chypre fragrances, and know the charm of vintage scents, even the loud and all-encompassing ones. And so I found myself wondering more and more whether my aversion to these so-called flower-spice-boomers might have changed by now, or at least softened.
For this reason, I was able to acquire a bottle of Aigner's “Explosive” again through a swap with a very dear perfumista. And lo and behold….

… still, with the first spray, the green herbaceous and slightly soapy aldehydes paired with a rather bitter citrus note and a significant spiciness leap out at me… and I find it absolutely fantastic! I can hardly keep my hands off my wrist, so fascinated am I. Even the quickly emerging rose, darkly spicy, almost herbal, accompanied by the lighter, but hardly sweet note of the lily of the valley, elicits more delight from me than the previous recoil.
It leaves a spicy, dark aura, almost a bit peppery - even though pepper is not listed here - that even takes on a somewhat green-spicy character over time. This is probably due to the moss indicated in the pyramid paired with vetiver, even though I cannot filter both out in detail individually, but only perceive them as an overall accompanying scent impression. The patchouli brings a dark earthy tone into the mix, but in a very pleasant way (I must say I am not really a die-hard patchouli fan), as it keeps the scent impression mysterious and somehow enigmatic.

And so I am practically glued to my wrist (in stark contrast to the urge to wash it off three years ago) and am utterly thrilled that I can call this fragrance my own. So to speak, a 180-degree turnaround.

Now I have some questions:

Have I olfactorily grown or matured to the point that I now appreciate such fragrances?
Do you have to reach a certain age to like certain fragrances?
And does my environment perceive me according to my scent perception from three years ago when I wear Explosive?

And my answer to everything, after a brief consideration, is:
Whatever!
I am just happy to have rediscovered and completely re-embraced Explosive!

Cheers to the 80s! And to the flower-spice-boomers!

------------------
A huge thank you goes to Amadea70, who has gifted me this wonderful fragrance with this great swap!!!
60 Comments
First

232 Reviews
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First
First
Top Review 40  
Wild, free, politically incorrect, and gloriously unmodern: Wonderful!
Even the packaging has a strong scent, and I can already sense before the first spray: Haha! This one is a hit! I open the packaging, and the fragrance intensifies, a grin spreads across my face: This perfume is going to be fun! I had already suspected it just from reading the pyramid and the comments of my predecessors. And indeed, I was not mistaken.
The first spray fills the room with a wave of fresh-spicy, radiant bergamot. There is no restraint here, no, this is full life and unbridled desire for it. And already the others step into the scene, yes, there is rose, there is spice and powder from coriander seed and iris, and then my beloved patchouli! Not some tame, weakened patchouli for people who don’t actually like patchouli, no, patchouli as it should be, in my opinion: with depth, with the power that somehow allows me to accept myself; patchouli has a healing effect and can initiate a deep spiritual transformation. In this respect, Explosive/Provocation feels both present and worldly as well as somehow transcendent.

Although I perceive them all, even a hint of sandalwood, from the very beginning, the scent practically starts with a tutti, there is still an impressive progression.
After the naturally radiant bergamot has stepped back, a beautiful, dark, velvety-powdery rose comes to the forefront. The powder will contribute the fine iris, which gently blends with the rose. Geranium is usually not my thing, but here it is excellently integrated and helps ensure that the heart note is more than just rose and iris underpinned by patchouli. I can only sense lily of the valley because they are listed in the pyramid.

Even now I know: They couldn't have chosen a better name: A mischievous desire arises in me to shake a few people up with this scent. To wear this 80s fragrance to a fine vegan restaurant or to a poetry reading and to make myself impossible among a few niche fragrance wearers; to cause secondhand embarrassment in the subway among the gourmand, ambroxan, iso E super wearers; to go into a perfumery and let the shocked faces of designer fragrance customers affect me. Hehe, I'm chuckling to myself - this scent is so wild, so wonderfully wild and somehow politically incorrect, gloriously unmodern. But it is friendly; it is not a nasty, mean scent, it is just a wonderfully natural-smelling fragrance that draws from the abundance without restraint.

In the base, it then becomes calmer, deeper; in the depth lies the power, and again I think that this patchouli, which in no way smells musty and does not evoke any hippie associations, probably has the potential to be therapeutic, can transform me, and unfolds a healing effect. Nestled on soft moss, surrounded by soothing amber, it envelops me in a calming, protective aura that still contains elements of citrus and a beautiful, spicy rose.
Gradually, more and more amber emerges until it matches the patchouli. Together, they let the magic fade away. Wonderful!

This is not a fragrance for niche fragrance wearers who want to stay in their niche; not a scent for lovers of modern fragrances who want to keep up with the trends; it is not a scent for fans of designer fragrances who want to remain loyal to their designers. This is a fragrance for the brave, who are not afraid to wear a scent that fits none of these categories, one that can only clash from every perspective, and that falls out of today’s time without being directly vintage (which would then be modern for some).
But for those who want to break out of their usual preferences, whatever they may be, who want to feel deeply alive, wild and free, who do not shy away from change, should definitely test Explosive/Provocation. Just be sure you like patchouli.

Have I provoked anyone now? Has anyone exploded? To reassure you: In my collection, there are niche fragrances, gourmands, other modern fragrances, as well as vintage and designer fragrances. I was recently in a fantastic vegan restaurant, love poetry readings, take the subway, and shop in perfumeries.
:-)
14 Comments
ClarasTante

3 Reviews
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ClarasTante
ClarasTante
Top Review 41  
Lila trägt kein Mensch mehr
Good day, what can I do for you?
I’m looking for a new fragrance. For myself.
Ah, what do you usually wear? Besides Poison? Vintage...
You can smell that? I have just a little bit, um...
Yes. It’s subtle, of course. Something similar then, or just a scent for days when you hate the world and want to wear black and purple?
Yes, exactly what I’m looking for! Tell me, there’s something like that?!
Of course. Everyone feels that way sometimes. Now, except for purple maybe... Can I spray it? Right on the skin or...
No, Poison is on there! I’d have to spray it on test strips...
*spray* And? What do you say?
Yes, well, oho, aha. Spicy! And rose? Hmm. Oh. I’ll think about it. Without skin testing...
I understand, of course. See you tomorrow.
What? Yes, goodbye then...

It was something like that. And I stuck the test strip in one of the car’s air vents and sniffed the whole ride, impressed by this bang! Nothing flattered, nothing whispered, nothing enveloped me. It simply screamed: BEAUTIFUL!
As if coriander was going to a concert with the dark red (or purple, if you like) rose (not classical...) and belting out the lyrics. Little lily of the valley and the elegant iris (powdered white) were allowed to join.

Just before the ENCORE, let’s all calm down a bit, become gentler (a bit) and warmer (a bit) and softer (a bit) and enjoy how beautiful the world can be.

I don’t even know if I should be glad that Explosive is sometimes sold so cheaply. My wallet says yes, but: The fragrance doesn’t deserve that. Nowadays.

In any case, I’m always happy how my mood explodes! Not immediately, but at some point it happens.
And strangely enough, I always combine Explosive with black and purple. There!
19 Comments
More reviews

Statements

60 short views on the fragrance
1
ok shit, not really my type of smell but good price and lasts very long
0 Comments
1
Perfectly poised between "Granny" and "More please!" A rose-moss-coriander bomb, set off by aldehydes. Classic, chic, very mature.
0 Comments
52
52
Dark rose-patchouli, sweetly lifted by lily of the valley.
Familiar citrus-aldehydic start, mossy base.
The bride wore black.
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52 Comments
34
26
Dark and wicked, the rose buds burst into bloom. The garden is damp from the rain. The strict gardener trims the trees.
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26 Comments
33
56
Even in its new edition, a thunderous chypre of great stature. It doesn't want to play. Rough, herbal-spicy, dark. It has enormous depth and longevity. Fantastic!
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56 Comments
33
27
Soapy foam
spice explosion
citrus blast
rose clouds
patchouli tears
shouting with warm,
dirty breath:
"Here I am" ...
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27 Comments
26
47
KN: Soapy herbal aldehydes & bitter bergamot burst from the bottle..
HN: dark rose celebrates liberation..
B: mossy patchouli fireworks
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47 Comments
27
10
In the dreamily dark bottle lies an opulent sweet yet green spicy rose scent with a black woody base: magnificent.
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10 Comments
3 years ago
23
31
A pale neck weeps red tears
Zig torn roses bear witness
mourning on black silk in a moss bed
to the cool, "eternal" kiss
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31 Comments
22
17
Black Widow - here you get caught and drained. Fear can be so exciting... Fascinating, but not for me as a slender type.
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17 Comments
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