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Notes03/12/2022
BrianBuchanan
339 Reviews
BrianBuchanan
2
Woody Citrus or Faux Fougère?
Even though it’s a woody citrus, I read Boucheron pour Homme as a faux fougère.
This is mainly due to the role played by bergamot.
Bergamot has a citrus side, and a woody orange-peel side, which - in the Eau de Toilette version - underpins the long citrus accord like a trombone in the brass section.
Bergamot has an aromatic side as well, which is related to lavender; both contain large amounts of linalool and linalyl acetate, and are olfactory cousins.
They are two of the three pillars of the Fougère, as well as being commonly used in the (citrus) Eau de Cologne.
The fougère side of BpH (which is boosted by a floral heart) adds complexity to what would otherwise be a straight-up woody citrus (with sandal and vetiver in the base). But despite the fougère side, BpH has a brightness and formality that feels too rigid for my taste. It takes ages for the fresh and cool citrus to calm down, and it never really goes away (on cloth, I don't wear on skin anymore). Perhaps more lavender & floral, and less bergamot & citrus would have made for a softer more wearable balance.
This is an assessment of a vintage miniature, which feels more consequential that a full bottle I recently tried; but without comparing them head to head that’s just a feeling. The designs of the FB and the mini are different and it would be reasonable to assume the juice was different too.
As two FB’s were in a clearance drive, and the SA told me the suppliers won’t take them back, it looks like there may be a change coming.
This is mainly due to the role played by bergamot.
Bergamot has a citrus side, and a woody orange-peel side, which - in the Eau de Toilette version - underpins the long citrus accord like a trombone in the brass section.
Bergamot has an aromatic side as well, which is related to lavender; both contain large amounts of linalool and linalyl acetate, and are olfactory cousins.
They are two of the three pillars of the Fougère, as well as being commonly used in the (citrus) Eau de Cologne.
The fougère side of BpH (which is boosted by a floral heart) adds complexity to what would otherwise be a straight-up woody citrus (with sandal and vetiver in the base). But despite the fougère side, BpH has a brightness and formality that feels too rigid for my taste. It takes ages for the fresh and cool citrus to calm down, and it never really goes away (on cloth, I don't wear on skin anymore). Perhaps more lavender & floral, and less bergamot & citrus would have made for a softer more wearable balance.
This is an assessment of a vintage miniature, which feels more consequential that a full bottle I recently tried; but without comparing them head to head that’s just a feeling. The designs of the FB and the mini are different and it would be reasonable to assume the juice was different too.
As two FB’s were in a clearance drive, and the SA told me the suppliers won’t take them back, it looks like there may be a change coming.
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