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Deadnose
1
Clearly designed to be as all-purpose as possible
The opening starts off with an extremely sweet balsamic (amyris) for about five to ten minutes. Try to ignore this part and don't judge the fragrance on the opening. After this time it turns into a sort of cedar-pine amalgam (hints at pine but is not pine, it is drydown of amyris/elemi) for the remainder of the fragrance (which is a very very long time).
In summary a linear balsamic cedar with the cypriol providing a earthy-smoky characteristic (hinting at incense but not incense). Hints at pine, is not pine. Hints at incense, is not incense. Should be totally cedar, but the other stuff mutes the cedar so it's not fully cedar and makes it much sweeter than cedar would normally be. It stays middle-of-the-road so as to not offend the young male testing panel with too sharp a smell of any one thing. Trying to formulate something that pleases most people leads to mediocrity but I do have to say, it smells really good. I don't love it, but I do like it a lot (wearing it right now as I write this review).
The overall vibe is sweet-woody with just a hint of earthiness—admittedly a bit cloying at times
Bottle: Though it looks basic it has a build and finishing touches where in comparison other maisons simply fail: the base is bottom-heavy and trapezoidal-shaped which prevents tipping (yes!), the bottle can be picked up by the cap because the magnet is very strong, the glass is tinted and not just a colour painted over clear glass which chips over time. Sprayer is outstanding. Minimalistic but very functional and gets high marks from me.
I don't apply fragrances as "dumb reach" ever - there's always some thinking that goes into spraying something that resonates with the mood I'm in...but I can totally understand this as such a class of fragrance. You can wear this anywhere and you're practically guaranteed that you'll smell great, though I would stay that it's perhaps a bit loud for the office unless you spray your chest and it's under a closed dress shirt (a male strip dancer could wear this bare chested and that would work—I suppose if you have a job where you stroll around with an unbuttoned shirt bare-chested then essentially any fragrance will do lol).
Very long lasting, absolutely linear after the first ten minutes, I would agree that the smell leans towards basic...but a basic with indisputable quality a notch above. Long lasting parfum that is *actually* a parfum (lasts all day). There's only one gripe: the price.
MSRP $183 USD for a 100ml? $220 for a refill? You're competing with other western houses that I would argue produce more memorable fragrances, and let's not forget the middle eastern houses that make fragrances for under $50 that are very nearly always nuclear in strength (which make both memorable and/or dumb-reach fragrances). You're competing with designer (dumb-reach) and competing with grey-market niche (price). I don't see the market for this at this price...but I've witnessed the younger generation (the ones that say they're always broke, mind you) drop $30 for a coffee and a bagel when the coffee shop also functions as a cool hangout spot...and this is marketed towards them. This is an under-40 fragrance which corresponds to the new street-urban demographic Burberry now tries to reach (look up the music video "FKA twigs papi bones" to get a feel for what I'm talking about)—serving a proper rejoinder to something like Creed Aventus. Someone who wants to smell great but pays extra to say they wear "Burberry," because the brand has cachet within their social circle as it signals you have disposable income to buy something that expensive.
I'm not in that circle and I find it is sweet in a very youthful kind of way and thus out of place for me...but begrudgingly I cannot deny that price aside if a younger person wore this I'd think they'd smell great.
DPArtist
Deadnose
AdrianPapaki
