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Rebirth2014
Very helpful Review
10
The downfall of the House of Dunhill
Once the brand "Dunhill" stood solely for high-quality tobacco products. The tobacco pipes from the house of "Dunhill" still form the nimbus of British smoking culture in their craftsmanship. Mind you, Alfred Dunhill opened his successful tobacco business in 1907, at a time when the health risks of smoking were not talked about.
Increasingly, since the founding of the company, social health awareness changed and already in 1968 the company "Dunhill" sold its tobacco licenses to "British American Tobacco". Only the high-quality tobacco pipes and corresponding accessories continue to be originally manufactured and offered by "Dunhill".
In the following development bought in lifestyle products (eg Montblanc) and also tried to gain a foothold in the fashion sector. The image of the "gentleman" built up over smoking always remained style-forming.
To be honest, "Dunhill" will be predominantly with former or still practicing male smokers the epitome of high quality. But it was precisely this target group that was alienated in recent years, as "Dunhill" (now under the management of the Swiss luxury group Richemont) decided in 2008 to withdraw completely from the manufacture and distribution of tobacco products.
But where is the journey to go? If one observes the brand - which, despite the orientation to the spirit of the times, is still geared solely to the target group of men - then it is noticeable that the range in the "men's perfumes" sector in particular is steadily increasing.
Although aimed at a broad sales market (mainstream), the brand does not really succeed in Germany to offer their fragrances nationwide. Niche perfumeries, the marketing and pricing is apparently too anchored in the mainstream sector (eg, the "Icon" series) to be included in the range. Many perfumery chains and drugstores, on the other hand, do not seem to see any potential buyers for the "Dunhill" products in their target group so far, in order to permanently place them on their shelves. Thus it becomes in Germany sometimes difficult to be able to test locally the smells, since these are often offered only in on-line Shops.
With the "Signature Collection" expands "Dunhill" - not least because of the pricing - since 2019 on the niche market. Due to the low availability, there are accordingly on "Parfumo" so far only very few ratings (as of March 2021 just five reviews of "Arabian Desert"). These convey the image that it must be an outstanding EDP (whole 8.3 rating points).
Unfortunately, I can not agree with this impression. The flacon is indeed outstanding and exceptionally massive design. Almost like a cup, I hold the bulky bottle (with just 100 ml content) in my hands. However, the contained liquid visually resembles a watered-down cola; a bad omen.
The fragrance starts fresh woody. In the further fragrance development then actually works out some eagle wood, which, however, only very gently shines through. In no way is this masculine, but clearly - not least because of the implied rose in the heart note - absolutely unisex. In the basic chord, musk and cardamom also arrange themselves according to my sensation. Except for the initial freshness, the scent remains very linear.
Here nothing new is ventured, but set on old proven fragrance patterns. Aigner N°1 Oud or also Armani Eau de Nuit Oud could have served as a template. This is not badly implemented and will like Oud beginners/inside, as well as all those who like Oud as a delicate hint in a woody / floral perfume.
Corresponding to the gentle Duftgestaltug also holds back the sillage with a good shelf life. Since there are, however, just in the niche some brands that have to offer in the similar price segment qualitatively much better gentle oud fragrances (eg MK "Oud Satin Mood").
"Arabian Desert" appears visually noble, but without any recognition value in the selected fragrance structure. This lack of orientation is already found in the brands "Bentley" and "Aigner". Relying solely on a traditional name does not automatically lead to the upper league of the fragrance world. Thus "Dunhill" will not be able to conquer a new segment and must even - according to my personal assessment - fear to be sold off in online stores in the foreseeable future
I am almost inclined to counteract the currently completely exaggerated high rating on Parfumo, to pronounce only a 5.0. But even this rating would not be fair. It is actually a rock-solid fragrance, which in my opinion (taking into account the much too high price of almost 140, - euros in the "Dunhill store" and the uninspired fragrance design) deserves a realistic rating between 6.5 and 7.
Finally, I would like to quote Edgar Allan Poe to my chosen title with a wink and thus express my personal disappointment with the corporate policy of the Dunhill brand: "... my spirit wavered as I now saw the mighty walls burst asunder; there followed a long thunderous crash like the roar of a thousand waterfalls, and the deep and black pool at my feet closed gloomily and silently over the ruins of the house ..." - Dunhill.
p.s.: Maybe I'm also wrong and Dunhill mutates with its future fragrances in the end yet the phoenix from the (tobacco) ashes.
;-)
..................
05.03.2023 - an interesting addition/counterstatement which I received from "Weinbergmaus" as mail and gladly insert here:
"So you write - I quote:
In the following development, people bought into lifestyle products (e.g. Montblanc) and also tried to gain a foothold in the fashion sector. The image of the "gentleman" built up over smoking always remained style-forming.
Well Dunhill has NEVER bought into Montblanc! The Hamburg fountain pen company Montblanc was bought just like Dunhill, by the luxury group RICHEMONT, formerly founded in South Africa and now based in Switzerland.
Both Dunhill and Montblanc, were granted licenses by Richemont for the production of fragrances (perfumes).
This is one of the major marketers for a range of fragrances for well-known brands. The name is INTER PARFUMS
The franz. Offshoot - referred to as Interparfums France has 11 well-known perfume brands in its portfolio - Montblanc yes, but not Dunhill! >>> www.interparfums.fr/en/index-2/
In contrast, the US offshoot INTER PARFUMS Inc. has 15 well-known perfume brands.
This one with Dunhill, but not Montblanc. >>> www.interparfumsinc.com/
Although Interparfums has well-known brands, they basically never managed to conceive real "bangers" and bring them to market."
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