Aldehydes
Ozonic notes
Ambergris
Bergamot
Iris
Lavender
Musk
Oakmoss
Elemi resin
Frankincense
Grapefruit
Orange blossom
Patchouli
07/28/2024
Ch03np
6 Reviews
Ch03np
Helpful Review
4
The Controversial Brilliance of Adoxal, Or: How to Make a Unique Marine
Those in the ‘know’ of the niche side of perfumery will have already been acquainted with the cult phenomenon of Francesca Bianchi and her fragrances: nebulous, thick, powdery, sweet—these can all be applied as descriptors to most of her works. Common leitmotifs of her style include somewhat animalic, gooey, resinous bases that harken back to ambery fragrances akin to Obsession Eau de Parfum, or Dune Eau de Toilette.
And perhaps one could say this is her Achilles Heel, or rather a comfortable habit she’s grown to repeat throughout her perfume range. Different shades of ambery, powdery browns. An acquired taste that doesn’t have too much range or dynamism in terms of who they’re for, exactly.
The Mariner’s Rhyme represents a breakaway from this sort of formulaic approach to her series. Behold: elemi, piercing aldehydes, and metric tonnes of ozonic, marine-like notes that propel through the air with magnificent sillage. And yes, beneath it lies a familiarity of sorts: a bleached iris, a powdery patchouli base, resinous facets. But the Devil is in the details of this work, and the details are indeed quite interesting.
Take, for example, the ever-persisting ozonic nature of the fragrance. Piercing and sharp like a sea breeze, but lacking in the sort of melon-like fruity qualities we’d associate with something like the infamous calone, potent and chlorinated in nature. A good hint would be to look at adoxal instead, a similar-yet-different ingredient that people might recognise from M/Mink, a vastly polarising experience of urinous honey and black ink. Similar shades are drawn here. A powdery cloud is swept up by the breeze of a black, inky sea. Oceanic and saline. The biting metallic nature of adoxal reaches out first, followed by the more substantial floral and resinous notes underneath. Interesting, isn’t it?
It’s precisely why this perfume isn’t for everyone. It might not be for anyone, really. Adoxal by itself is such a temperamental synthetic to rein in, even despite Bianchi’s more restrained approach here in comparison to her previous works. But it’s something interesting, something new, and I think it’s worth checking out on that merit alone.
And perhaps one could say this is her Achilles Heel, or rather a comfortable habit she’s grown to repeat throughout her perfume range. Different shades of ambery, powdery browns. An acquired taste that doesn’t have too much range or dynamism in terms of who they’re for, exactly.
The Mariner’s Rhyme represents a breakaway from this sort of formulaic approach to her series. Behold: elemi, piercing aldehydes, and metric tonnes of ozonic, marine-like notes that propel through the air with magnificent sillage. And yes, beneath it lies a familiarity of sorts: a bleached iris, a powdery patchouli base, resinous facets. But the Devil is in the details of this work, and the details are indeed quite interesting.
Take, for example, the ever-persisting ozonic nature of the fragrance. Piercing and sharp like a sea breeze, but lacking in the sort of melon-like fruity qualities we’d associate with something like the infamous calone, potent and chlorinated in nature. A good hint would be to look at adoxal instead, a similar-yet-different ingredient that people might recognise from M/Mink, a vastly polarising experience of urinous honey and black ink. Similar shades are drawn here. A powdery cloud is swept up by the breeze of a black, inky sea. Oceanic and saline. The biting metallic nature of adoxal reaches out first, followed by the more substantial floral and resinous notes underneath. Interesting, isn’t it?
It’s precisely why this perfume isn’t for everyone. It might not be for anyone, really. Adoxal by itself is such a temperamental synthetic to rein in, even despite Bianchi’s more restrained approach here in comparison to her previous works. But it’s something interesting, something new, and I think it’s worth checking out on that merit alone.
Updated on 07/28/2024
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