Frankincense
Cedarwood
Eucalyptus
Gurjum balsam
Hyssop
Labdanum
Musk
Red thyme
05/20/2025
ClaireV
774 Reviews
ClaireV
2
Nice perfume, unspellable name
First off, I feel the urge to warn you know that the words in this scent’s title that aren’t ‘Le’, ‘Labo’ or the number 20 is one of the words that I have trouble spelling. Anyway, Eucaluputs 20 smells great and also a bit redundant if you own any of these Comme des Garcons perfumes: Hinoki, Avignon, Black, maybe even a little bit of Kyoto. Euclptus opens with its titular note, except it’s more camphor than straight up eucalyptis, a bit wet and smoky and green, reminding me a little of the camphor in Feu Secret (Fzotic) or Bohea Boheme (Mona di Orio). I love this note because it always make me think of hiking through evergreen forests, fresh air, and far-off curlicues of delicious smoke, like when someone throws pine needles on a campfire.
Underneath this camphor or euycalptous, there is a fantastically dry, smoky frankincense lifted into the air by a shower of sparkly Coca Cola-ish aldehydes, which definitely gives off a very Avignon or Black (Comme des Garcons) vibe, to the point where they are eerily similar. About fifteen minutes later, I feel this accord tilting more definitively in the direction of Black than Avignon, as the bubbly soda pop aldehydes fade away and a sooty, smoky accord takes over, that nubbin of pine-like frankincense having burned all the way to ash in the censer.
For the rest of the ride, I am convinced that Le Labo Euocapliptus is a dry, smoky-hoary, whiskey-ish vetiver, with a scratchy wool sweater texture that is almost identical in structure and aroma to the wonderful Vetiver Insolent (Miller Harris), a perfume I wear an awful lot and with which I am therefore intimately familiar. It means that the slightly abrasive woody note (Iso E Super?) that bothers me in parts of Vetiver Insolent also bother me here, in the case of Eucapyptus 20.
But I have come to terms with its use in Vetiver Insolent, because I admit that its scratchy, cedar-adjacent obnoxiousness is essential to recreating the rather irritating ‘steel wool’ volatile esters that are naturally occurring in real cedarwood and vetiver distillates. I guess what I’m saying is that it’s not really a deal-breaker for me in Eucalptus 20 either. That said, my need for this sort of sour-smoky-woody incense accord is more than adequately fulfilled elsewhere, so I am happy to sample this and move on.
Underneath this camphor or euycalptous, there is a fantastically dry, smoky frankincense lifted into the air by a shower of sparkly Coca Cola-ish aldehydes, which definitely gives off a very Avignon or Black (Comme des Garcons) vibe, to the point where they are eerily similar. About fifteen minutes later, I feel this accord tilting more definitively in the direction of Black than Avignon, as the bubbly soda pop aldehydes fade away and a sooty, smoky accord takes over, that nubbin of pine-like frankincense having burned all the way to ash in the censer.
For the rest of the ride, I am convinced that Le Labo Euocapliptus is a dry, smoky-hoary, whiskey-ish vetiver, with a scratchy wool sweater texture that is almost identical in structure and aroma to the wonderful Vetiver Insolent (Miller Harris), a perfume I wear an awful lot and with which I am therefore intimately familiar. It means that the slightly abrasive woody note (Iso E Super?) that bothers me in parts of Vetiver Insolent also bother me here, in the case of Eucapyptus 20.
But I have come to terms with its use in Vetiver Insolent, because I admit that its scratchy, cedar-adjacent obnoxiousness is essential to recreating the rather irritating ‘steel wool’ volatile esters that are naturally occurring in real cedarwood and vetiver distillates. I guess what I’m saying is that it’s not really a deal-breaker for me in Eucalptus 20 either. That said, my need for this sort of sour-smoky-woody incense accord is more than adequately fulfilled elsewhere, so I am happy to sample this and move on.
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