09/16/2023
Parma
27 Reviews
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Parma
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New Green
A green fragrance by Kurkdjian. It is right on trend. Here citrusy, fresh and thoroughly reinterpreted as part of his cologne-like Aqua series.
First of all: I think it's a pleasant, charming, light-hearted and very uncomplicated fragrance to wear. Fresh, airy, slightly unusual in its citrus and comparable to a modern eau de cologne in terms of feel. I like it, but I also have a few criticisms.
On the positive side, there is the green tone. I find it novel because my perception is that it's a mix of ginger (bitter fruity), tangerine peel (the inner side, i.e. predominantly bitter but with a few shreds of fruit hanging on), sugared wine gum apple rings and a lime room spray. I get a juicy, bitter-citrusy-fruity, sweetly sparkling, minimally watery and at the same time slightly artificial impression. The brand lists bergamot, verbena, sweet fennel, hedione and a "matcha tea-woody musk accord" as ingredients, but I hardly notice any tea-like notes. However, when I smell a fennel tea bag, I recognize its scent profile, but it is much sweeter and not as tart as the original. I also only detect a bitter green tea note to a very limited extent. The moderate but still present, sugary ethyl maltol sweetness masks too many of its characteristic qualities. Almost odorless musk and the slightly jasmine-like hedione work against this with a transparent aeration and balance out a lot.
In its aura, it reminds me somewhat of the unusually citrusy-green-fruity-watery scents of 'Verveine Cactus', 'Cactus Garden' or, to a lesser extent, 'Pacific Chill' (more orangy-peachy there, lemony-bitter here). It remains particularly appealing due to its noticeable sugariness, which quickly makes it a tad too sweet for me. And that brings me to the points of criticism: I would have liked it better if it had consistently maintained its fundamentally tart, fresh focus. I also dislike the noticeably synthetic nature of the fragrance as it develops. Due to a very round and balanced composition, this disadvantage is not too significant, but analogous to the sweetness, it is a little too much for me. As a final point of criticism, I would like to add that despite the quality of the ingredients, the fragrance comes across as a little too polished, too arbitrary. It lacks distinctiveness. In the sense that it quickly feels "pointless". The initially stimulating theme is not underpinned and runs out uninspired. It's like the feeling you get after an interesting movie opening when you're waiting for the story to develop in an exciting way, only to realize at some point that there's no climax. It ripples along in a semi-interesting way. Beautiful landscape shots and beautiful people keep you interested, but the real kick is missing. It might have benefited from the addition of another note, as fennel is a pale, insubstantial component in my nose. However, with its transparent, fresh structure, it fits in well with the Aqua range and I think it's good that it adds a new facet to it.
Finally, the thematic superstructure of the brand: with the reference to the green color as the middle element of the rainbow color palette and the balancing characteristics attributed to it, this seems quite far-fetched to me. However, the fragrance can be said to have a certain balance.
First of all: I think it's a pleasant, charming, light-hearted and very uncomplicated fragrance to wear. Fresh, airy, slightly unusual in its citrus and comparable to a modern eau de cologne in terms of feel. I like it, but I also have a few criticisms.
On the positive side, there is the green tone. I find it novel because my perception is that it's a mix of ginger (bitter fruity), tangerine peel (the inner side, i.e. predominantly bitter but with a few shreds of fruit hanging on), sugared wine gum apple rings and a lime room spray. I get a juicy, bitter-citrusy-fruity, sweetly sparkling, minimally watery and at the same time slightly artificial impression. The brand lists bergamot, verbena, sweet fennel, hedione and a "matcha tea-woody musk accord" as ingredients, but I hardly notice any tea-like notes. However, when I smell a fennel tea bag, I recognize its scent profile, but it is much sweeter and not as tart as the original. I also only detect a bitter green tea note to a very limited extent. The moderate but still present, sugary ethyl maltol sweetness masks too many of its characteristic qualities. Almost odorless musk and the slightly jasmine-like hedione work against this with a transparent aeration and balance out a lot.
In its aura, it reminds me somewhat of the unusually citrusy-green-fruity-watery scents of 'Verveine Cactus', 'Cactus Garden' or, to a lesser extent, 'Pacific Chill' (more orangy-peachy there, lemony-bitter here). It remains particularly appealing due to its noticeable sugariness, which quickly makes it a tad too sweet for me. And that brings me to the points of criticism: I would have liked it better if it had consistently maintained its fundamentally tart, fresh focus. I also dislike the noticeably synthetic nature of the fragrance as it develops. Due to a very round and balanced composition, this disadvantage is not too significant, but analogous to the sweetness, it is a little too much for me. As a final point of criticism, I would like to add that despite the quality of the ingredients, the fragrance comes across as a little too polished, too arbitrary. It lacks distinctiveness. In the sense that it quickly feels "pointless". The initially stimulating theme is not underpinned and runs out uninspired. It's like the feeling you get after an interesting movie opening when you're waiting for the story to develop in an exciting way, only to realize at some point that there's no climax. It ripples along in a semi-interesting way. Beautiful landscape shots and beautiful people keep you interested, but the real kick is missing. It might have benefited from the addition of another note, as fennel is a pale, insubstantial component in my nose. However, with its transparent, fresh structure, it fits in well with the Aqua range and I think it's good that it adds a new facet to it.
Finally, the thematic superstructure of the brand: with the reference to the green color as the middle element of the rainbow color palette and the balancing characteristics attributed to it, this seems quite far-fetched to me. However, the fragrance can be said to have a certain balance.
Conclusion:
A nice, well-made summer freshness with its own, thoroughly new DNA, but after an interesting start, it remains too uniform and unexciting for me.
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