A well-known online encyclopedia states: "Appeals, including appeals, are appeals against a judgment of the first instance." With this comment I am appealing against my own first judgment on Cargo de Nuit. Only a few weeks ago I gave a seven and a half, combined with the meanwhile deleted statement, that he has certain bonds of White Musk (Bodyshop, a tenth of the price), but unfortunately I don't show much more than that. The weakness, which is often noticed, I signed blindly.
And then my vacation got in the way. Milan. A city full of temptations for fashion enthusiasts (me not) and perfume lovers (me a bit). A city that sucks in money and, after entering a four-digit pin, simply lets it disappear into nowhere. End of August a relatively empty (summer holidays), brooding hot plaster. Off to the air-conditioned perfumeries and department stores! What there wasn't to discover ...
... among others also the Olfactories series by Prada, priced up like the Parco Palladiano series by Bottega Veneta or the La Collection Privée Christian Dior. There was something, I thought. And there was indeed Cargo de Nuit, that fragrance that I mediocrely judged to have the sounding, strange, curious name, of which I still don't know whether it alludes to a French hit of the 80s - by a certain Axel Bauer - or has any connection to Midnight Train and Moonlight Shadow from the same series. "Cargo ship of the night" - or how to translate it? Sounds a bit like McDonalds is naming a new burger "Melancholy of the Pampa Cow"; you could philosophize about it for a long time. Anyway.
After the first acquaintance via Parfumo-Sharing (thanks to Niklas) I wanted to give the night freighter a second chance. In the basement of a large perfumery, which also creates its own fragrances and is known for an Aventus "clone", I was allowed to test Cargo de Nuit again on my skin and my shirt as well as on a strip of paper. First at 22, 23 degrees, then outside at 32, 33.
Yes, I stick with a dominant musk impression, which might come from the Ambrettesamen (Bisameibisch, Abelmoschus), which according to research are often used as substitutes for animal musk. For me, however, this has nothing animal about it, but something soothing and soft. I wouldn't personally speak of "clean" as in Infusion d'Iris Cèdre, for example, even though I understand why this association may easily arise. By the way, Prada herself gives musk instead of Ambrettesamen. Complete: musk, aldehyde (very generic), woody and mineral notes (very generic), amber, ambroxan (I don't get it), coumarin. Here, too, be that as it may. It depends on the smell - and this can be "realized" in different ways, just like the smell notes mostly rather Assozationen, not necessarily ingredients seem to be.
Many here have a woodruff association, which might originate from the coumarin. I'm a little ambivalent. In a nearby herb garden I picked a handful of woodruff and compared it several times with Cargo de Nuit: fresh, after about an hour, after six, half a day ... My impression: This slightly sweet, "floating", not at all bitterly spicy in Cargo de Nuit may be coumarin, but no woodruff. But I admit that I once smelled the scent with a half-snuffed nose and then suddenly thought of Waldmeister (I find it exciting how different, almost strange and new scents can smell then). Still, if you're looking for a woodruff, you'd better look somewhere else. But a dominant note of this perfume goes at least in that direction.
By the way, the mentioned coumarin note can also be smelled in the Luna Rossa Black, but for my taste it is dressed in too much distracting intense woodiness (?).
In Cargo de Nuit, Daniela Andrier weaves these two fragrances - something musky and something coumarin-like - into a quiet, discreet scent, which I probably failed in the first instance because it is completely unspectacular and unobtrusive and only then becomes not only "nice", but really beautiful, when you smell and surrender to it very precisely. Cargo de Nuit is then (for me at least) a wonderful, soulful, cuddly scent, a mist of scent in the forest, so delicate that it resembles a transparent, pale green powder cloud. Yes, he's wrapping up, yes, he's blessing. And yes, he's not loud at all. With the Infusion d'Iris Cèdre, for example, he shares decency and seriousness, but is warmer, more approachable, while the latter scent seems a bit more artificial and distant in my opinion (which I think is very nice there, though).
All this makes Cargo de Nuit for me a fragrance that can be worn wonderfully at work, even and especially when you have a lot of contact with other people. This functionality is inherent in many Prada fragrances anyway (e.g. numerous infusions or the L'homme). Cargo de Nuit almost always fits somehow. At work, in my spare time, on a date. Only for a "loud night out" would he be too quiet. I also find it really unisex compared to numerous "infusions", or let's say gender neutral.
Once, on a cool summer evening, I sprayed it on a cuddly soft sweater. And there arose a magic all of its own. In my case Cargo de Nuit is quite fleeting on the skin (or I adapt too quickly), but on clothing it is strangely like a persistent, gentle cloud of cotton wool powder, delicious and unobtrusive, delicately sweet and yet completely ungourmandig. A little dream, although none with the greatest endurance. I look, with all joy over the many suns, but already eagerly towards the fresher, colder days, on which this smell will produce as by magic hand an impression of cuddlyness, cosiness, cosiness, hygge, or whatever you like to call it
Is it worth its price? Standard answer: Everyone has to decide for themselves. I must honestly say: Probably nine out of ten interested people will be disappointed after a detailed test, because they would have expected "more" for all the money. I understand that. I understand that. Only for me, unfortunately, it just fits pretty well. It is not spectacularly booming, not a wonder of the world, not a work of art. But he is simply very well done - and with the necessary patience he showed me all his gentle subtlety. I will be happy to wear it, especially in autumn and spring, at work or afterwards to relax and be cuddly and fragrant.