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07/29/2021
Schallhoerer
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Schallhoerer
7
The Hanging Game
Morning Chess from Vilhelm Parfumerie starts with a sugared bergamot, which has a pineapple-like character, as with Aventus. The elephant is already in the room and everyone can see it. Clearly Aventus was the inspiration for Mr Epinette here. The problem with Morning Chess, however, is that it doesn't do anything olfactorily better or different than previous Aventus-inspired scents.
The opening here, for example, reminds me a lot of Cedrat Boise by Mancera. It's smoother and less synthetic than the opening of Club de Nuit Intense Man Eau de Toilette by Armaf, but goes in a very similar direction.
My big problem with Morning Chess is the sweetness or the higher fruitiness in the opening. Since the fragrance seems at many moments like a too sweet pineapple ice cream. In the further course, this sweetness remains present while the fragrance develops in a creamy direction. A leather accord fits quite coherently into the overall picture and takes something of the excessive sweetness for my feeling. Edgy and smoky, however, the fragrance is no longer. It remains a sweeter and especially creamier version of Aventus. Not smokier, edgier or with more bite.
The only advantage Morning Chess has over the paragon is in longevity. Where Aventus after 5-6 hours the air goes out, one has of Morning Chess still about 4-5 hours more.
Fragrance: very similar to Cedrat Boise, CDNIM and the role model, Aventus. Nothing really new on the Anasas-Chypre front.
Flacon: Looks classy, but can be sprayed relatively unpleasant.
Sprayer: Very good level. Fine mist similar to a Dior Prive sprayer.
Durability: 8-10 hours with 3 sprays
Price: not justified given the cheaper competition (Cedrat Boise and CDNIM). At 20-25% off, more in the right price range.
I'm disappointed in Morning Chess. For me, this is too sweet, creamy and offers no notable innovations in the pineapple chypre genre from Aventus. Fans of this direction either reach for the original and live with the poorer durability, Parfumos on budget reach for Mancera or Armaf and if you want to smell a different twist and independence in this own genre, then you reach for Hacivat.
The opening here, for example, reminds me a lot of Cedrat Boise by Mancera. It's smoother and less synthetic than the opening of Club de Nuit Intense Man Eau de Toilette by Armaf, but goes in a very similar direction.
My big problem with Morning Chess is the sweetness or the higher fruitiness in the opening. Since the fragrance seems at many moments like a too sweet pineapple ice cream. In the further course, this sweetness remains present while the fragrance develops in a creamy direction. A leather accord fits quite coherently into the overall picture and takes something of the excessive sweetness for my feeling. Edgy and smoky, however, the fragrance is no longer. It remains a sweeter and especially creamier version of Aventus. Not smokier, edgier or with more bite.
The only advantage Morning Chess has over the paragon is in longevity. Where Aventus after 5-6 hours the air goes out, one has of Morning Chess still about 4-5 hours more.
Fragrance: very similar to Cedrat Boise, CDNIM and the role model, Aventus. Nothing really new on the Anasas-Chypre front.
Flacon: Looks classy, but can be sprayed relatively unpleasant.
Sprayer: Very good level. Fine mist similar to a Dior Prive sprayer.
Durability: 8-10 hours with 3 sprays
Price: not justified given the cheaper competition (Cedrat Boise and CDNIM). At 20-25% off, more in the right price range.
I'm disappointed in Morning Chess. For me, this is too sweet, creamy and offers no notable innovations in the pineapple chypre genre from Aventus. Fans of this direction either reach for the original and live with the poorer durability, Parfumos on budget reach for Mancera or Armaf and if you want to smell a different twist and independence in this own genre, then you reach for Hacivat.
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