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Notes06/10/2020
Unterholz
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Unterholz
Top Review
New rich and sexy!
For me, Xerjoff stands prominently for those umpteen pseudo-luxury brands where marketing and packaging are not quite in proportion to the actual content. This is not forbidden, but it is also far from pleasant.
Nevertheless, there are a few Xerjoffs that I think are quite successful. The prices of the Italian perfumers are salted, even if the quality of the products is basically not bad. But that doesn't mean that I'm willing to pay more than 250.-Euro (50 mL) for one of the beautiful oud stars, for example, I simply exceed a pain threshold. And again and again one discovers alternatives that are in the moderate price range and just as well made. 170.-Euro for the Renaissance (100 mL EdT) is just ok for such a "light" composition. So I treated myself to this one for the summer despite my above scruples, it's just too good. When I tested it for the first time a few years ago, I gave it the highest mark. And that doesn't happen often. But then I was surprised, has it been reformulated in the meantime? Interestingly, I remembered it a little differently.
From the composition quite simply held, this is above all a broad citrus scent. The generic term "citrus" has rarely been used more beautifully. Lemon? Tangerine? Grapefruit? Bergamot? Probably a little bit of everyone. Sparkling, subtle, realistic and at the same time a little artificial, airy, sourly refreshing - all vitamins in it - and with a herbal addition (mint and possibly rosemary?) it never seems flat. Maybe it is also the petitgrain, which produces a nice leaf-green unfruity tonic bitterness. The citrus fruits get a slightly dry-creamy undertone (no Nivea!), without having been mixed with the big musk scoop. That fits. The floral components only play a role for me to the extent that I perceive the fragrance as harmoniously holistic, perhaps some jasmine can be guessed at. Despite the "Amber" being mentioned, there is nothing sweet about it. It is also interesting that the citrus notes last extremely long, the devil knows how the Italos do it (Paradisamide?). But as a citrus fetishist this is only right for me.
Now to the differences to the new(?) version. I found the top note more sparkling, more like grapefruit. What I liked very much at that time was a nice cedar from the beginning, I take Texas cedar, with this characteristic cumin-like, slightly sweaty note. I think it just expands clean or citrusy scents with a slightly soiled component. An ideal duo with a slightly earthy patch that is hard to guess when new. Overall, the new fragrance seems a bit more artificial, less sparkling, more linear, and without the beautiful almost animalistic cedar note. For this you get one point deduction.
Since I like to order test tubes with a fragrance, I have made a selection online at Xerjoff. The delivery of the order is impressive: a huge package, which in turn contains a white Snow White coffin box as big as a Mastaba. Inside is once again the individual products, wrapped in recycled tissue paper. The samples are of course embedded in plasticized "Xerjoff-Universe" cardboard blocks with a purple art velvet interior. Phew, and the Renaissance flacon was faithfully wrapped in cardboard like a pharaoh according to the layer principle. Finally, the flacon rests in an oversized imitation leather sarcophagus. Why is this? I appreciate careful packaging, but this is disproportionate. Cheesy junk. Especially since the far too nice wrappings end up in the repository anyway. Even in the luxury industry, you have to think about the fact that you can also pack something nice in an environmentally friendly way. Personally, I think it's unsexy to produce so much waste for a fragrance and it will probably keep me from buying another Xerjoff.
If you enjoy dry-woody-creamy hesperidia scents without a dramatic scent, you should test here.
This Xerjoff is certainly not "great cinema", but precisely because of its low profile it doesn't really fit into the brand's broad-based portfolio at all. For me probably just therefore a half bull's eye.
Nevertheless, there are a few Xerjoffs that I think are quite successful. The prices of the Italian perfumers are salted, even if the quality of the products is basically not bad. But that doesn't mean that I'm willing to pay more than 250.-Euro (50 mL) for one of the beautiful oud stars, for example, I simply exceed a pain threshold. And again and again one discovers alternatives that are in the moderate price range and just as well made. 170.-Euro for the Renaissance (100 mL EdT) is just ok for such a "light" composition. So I treated myself to this one for the summer despite my above scruples, it's just too good. When I tested it for the first time a few years ago, I gave it the highest mark. And that doesn't happen often. But then I was surprised, has it been reformulated in the meantime? Interestingly, I remembered it a little differently.
From the composition quite simply held, this is above all a broad citrus scent. The generic term "citrus" has rarely been used more beautifully. Lemon? Tangerine? Grapefruit? Bergamot? Probably a little bit of everyone. Sparkling, subtle, realistic and at the same time a little artificial, airy, sourly refreshing - all vitamins in it - and with a herbal addition (mint and possibly rosemary?) it never seems flat. Maybe it is also the petitgrain, which produces a nice leaf-green unfruity tonic bitterness. The citrus fruits get a slightly dry-creamy undertone (no Nivea!), without having been mixed with the big musk scoop. That fits. The floral components only play a role for me to the extent that I perceive the fragrance as harmoniously holistic, perhaps some jasmine can be guessed at. Despite the "Amber" being mentioned, there is nothing sweet about it. It is also interesting that the citrus notes last extremely long, the devil knows how the Italos do it (Paradisamide?). But as a citrus fetishist this is only right for me.
Now to the differences to the new(?) version. I found the top note more sparkling, more like grapefruit. What I liked very much at that time was a nice cedar from the beginning, I take Texas cedar, with this characteristic cumin-like, slightly sweaty note. I think it just expands clean or citrusy scents with a slightly soiled component. An ideal duo with a slightly earthy patch that is hard to guess when new. Overall, the new fragrance seems a bit more artificial, less sparkling, more linear, and without the beautiful almost animalistic cedar note. For this you get one point deduction.
Since I like to order test tubes with a fragrance, I have made a selection online at Xerjoff. The delivery of the order is impressive: a huge package, which in turn contains a white Snow White coffin box as big as a Mastaba. Inside is once again the individual products, wrapped in recycled tissue paper. The samples are of course embedded in plasticized "Xerjoff-Universe" cardboard blocks with a purple art velvet interior. Phew, and the Renaissance flacon was faithfully wrapped in cardboard like a pharaoh according to the layer principle. Finally, the flacon rests in an oversized imitation leather sarcophagus. Why is this? I appreciate careful packaging, but this is disproportionate. Cheesy junk. Especially since the far too nice wrappings end up in the repository anyway. Even in the luxury industry, you have to think about the fact that you can also pack something nice in an environmentally friendly way. Personally, I think it's unsexy to produce so much waste for a fragrance and it will probably keep me from buying another Xerjoff.
If you enjoy dry-woody-creamy hesperidia scents without a dramatic scent, you should test here.
This Xerjoff is certainly not "great cinema", but precisely because of its low profile it doesn't really fit into the brand's broad-based portfolio at all. For me probably just therefore a half bull's eye.
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