And after 24 hours, I'm calling it: neither has Xerjoff. In one of the most bizarre releases this year, Xerjoff has opted to release Torino23
into the Nitto ATP Finals Torino collection. It's not bizarre that they released T23 because they'll continue to release these as long as the ATP Finals take place in Turin which I believe is the case until 2025 (inclusive). It's bizarre because of the underlying product.
I assume many of the folks here on Parfumo are familiar with both Join The Club - Torino21
and Join The Club - Torino22
, but worst case, at least familiar with one. Torino21 is one of Xerjoff's best-rated scents and arguably their top summer fragrance. T21's key accords are the minty freshness with the sweet-honeyed white floral accord. T22's key accords are the eucalyptus freshness with the sweet-spicy saffron accord. If you read those sentences back-to-back, you'll notice that while the notes are different, they bring out similar accords and do so in different ways. But then you get this complete 180.
Just like the few reviews online, I agree that Torino23
opens with a flood of white florals as the neroli gives it this fresh and dare I say laundry detergent vibe. First smelling it on-skin, you notice mild spiciness from the nutmeg and cardamom. However, the core profile in the air has very much remained fresh-floral, comparable to something like Villa Néroli
. During the first 20-30 minutes, the spices & patchouli combine for this bizarre vegetal vibe in the base. Over time the white floral tones fade and the ylang-ylang becomes a key note. When worn outside, the cashmere wood in the base is prominent as it brings that dry-ashy feel that I recognize from Casamorati - Bouquet Ideale Eau de Parfum
, albeit the sweetness in Torino23 is almost non-existent relative to the Casamorati. In terms of accords, I would say the scent opens fresh-floral and dries floral-woody-spicy, with the floral transition being one from white to yellow.
Torino23, to me, smells outdated and imitates feminine designer releases from the 90s & 00s and completely misses on what Torino21 & Torino22 did to successfully establish the series. This will end up going down as my biggest blindbuy fail in years if not ever. I get average performance in the 7 hour ballpark with moderate & potentially leaning weak sillage. Ranking T23 as a standalone, I would give it a 5/10 as I'm clearly not the target demographic for this release and marketing it as a unisex fragrance was very misleading. But within the context of the ATP collection, this is a complete whiff and giving it a 5 would be a compliment. Try before you buy.