What do you call an Arabic Julian? - Right,
Oudian. Hahaha, okay, maybe that's not quite the name the manufacturer came up with, as they combined the main components Oud and Durian (the "vomit fruit") and named it Oudian. Now that the name is clarified, let's quickly set aside the joke, because this fragrance takes itself seriously in several aspects!
First, I want to focus on the still young perfume house Pernoire, as this is the first fragrance from them that I had the chance to test. Founded in 2020 by two friends who grew up in the same neighborhood in Basel, the mission was to incorporate the world-renowned and appreciated Swiss craftsmanship with all its precision and perfection into the creation of fragrances. Highly concentrated scents with a minimum fragrance oil content of 25% are meant to focus strongly on the character of the wearer and highlight their personality. Unfortunately, I couldn't find out anything about the name or why the bottles are depicted with chess pieces, but if anyone knows more about this, feel free to add it in the comments.
Now, let's get to the most important part, the actual scent. I learned through a user in the news feed that you can try
Oudian for free and only pay for shipping. I took a quick look at the fragrance and saw that the few existing reviews were overwhelmingly positive. Initially, the scent actually had a rating of 9. Thanks to the unknown Parfumo user for that, and as promised, the sample was quickly in my mailbox.
Now, with 119 ratings, the fragrance has quickly said goodbye to its 9 rating, which is understandable. In the very first seconds, a woody/oud note practically screams out, but is immediately reined in by an overly sweet mix of fruity notes, which slows it down. The combination feels a bit scratchy and uneven at times, and the fruity notes come off as somewhat chaotic. Since the ingredient "Durian" is colloquially known as the "vomit fruit," it could be that this adds a certain disturbing factor, but don’t worry, the scent doesn’t smell like vomit. You sense that something darker is lurking in the background, but the fruity notes are so dominant that the incense and leather notes struggle to break through. Overall, I would describe the fragrance DNA as good, but nothing more. Of the 36 users on Parfumo, 75 percent are male. Regarding the fragrance DNA, there could definitely be more women, as the scent is very fruity, but perhaps the official description of the fragrance is a bit off-putting for some ladies.
Dominance, power, strength. These words describe the fragrance, and at least in terms of performance, I have nothing to criticize. The manufacturers advertise a longevity of 12 hours, which I can't fully endorse, BUT eight hours of self-perception with four sprays is impressive and commendable.
The bottle itself is attractive, but I see no connection to the fragrance itself. The chess piece is not explained further, and why one would choose white for a fruity/dark oud mix remains a mystery to me.
Looking at the price, it makes sense that the fragrance comes from Switzerland. 50ml for 240 euros is steep. I can't criticize the performance, even at that high price. However, all other aspects, I can.
The world of oud fragrances is now so fiercely competitive and filled with established players that you practically have to release a fragrance bomb to stand out in this price range. Whether choosing the vomit fruit as an ingredient was the right decision, I seriously doubt at this point. If you want to test a true oud monster that is much better balanced, I recommend "Oud Satin Mood (Extrait de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian."
Top Notes 
Tropical fruits
Durian fruit
Saffron
Sichuan pepper
Heart Notes 
Frankincense
Labdanum
Base Notes 
Oud
Leather
Vetiver
Longevity
DerWespe
Kvik
Dapound01
OlfuqtoryX
Topfpflanze3
FragFreak666
Dan93
PaddyNBG
Joelpinto
