Dubai - Oud The Spirit of Dubai 2015

The Spirit of Dubai’s take on oud is exactly how I think most people expect oud to be, which is as ferociously animalic and foul-smelling as a soiled cow yard. Naturally, not all real oud smells like this, but it is important to note that many customers in the Middle East do not think of it as real oud unless it does smell like this.

The central dilemma of any luxury perfume house wanting to crack the market with an authentic oud fragrance is probably as follows: (a) wrap the oud up in flowers, fruit, and sandalwood in an attempt to make the medicine go down with well-heeled, genteel Western clients, or (b) go balls to the wall with an authentically cheesy, barnyardy oud and just hope there are enough Middle Eastern customers (or enough well-heeled, genteel Western clients who are up for a bit of a dare) to make it worth the investment. With Oud, The Spirit of Dubai has obviously gone for option b. It frames a pungent, cheesy, quasi-fecal natural oud oil with a massive synth support that buttresses the oud from either side, the equivalent of using a smoke machine to fill a cathedral with dry ice. Within seconds, one’s nostrils and immediate surroundings are invaded by a pressing wall of bilious funk that smells like a cow’s prolapse.

It is, clearly, something that one might hesitate to wear in public. Few of the other listed notes make it out alive from behind this wall of murk, not because they are not there, but because the noxious cloud of chemical and real oud is so dense and all-encompassing that it is difficult to make out the shape of more delicate notes such as lime, pear, rose, or lily of the valley. The synth structure is massive – overwhelming even. Thankfully, given time, the piles of liquid slurry on the bar floor dry out and morph into the shape of a dry, smoky leather. Oud then takes on a tailored, almost fresh elegance that could not have been predicted during the barbaric assault of its opening. It meanders for hours along this track, a dark, dry leather with incense smoke wafting up from beneath. But its chemical heat signature never quite departs the scene. It remains at a low simmer beneath the surface, like a Duracell bunny on his drum, muffled under a blanket.

Price-wise and funk-wise, The Spirit of Dubai’s Oud is in the same ballpark as Frederic Malle’s The Night. Both are aimed at the haute luxe segment of the buying market and both are built around a core of real oud. The real difference is in the use of synthetics. The Night is more naturally built and attar-themed, whereas Oud embraces the synth-driven performance and structure that is so popular among luxury buyers these days. Hair-splitting aside, these are clearly brothers from another mother.

From its departure, the perfume awakens the senses with an intriguing ephemeral mixture of fresh pineapple and sparkling citrus, highlighting lemon with bergamot. Saffron adds a luxurious, spicy kick, while pine and cypriol add a woody, resinous green freshness. The combination of fruits, spices and green notes creates a dynamic and multifaceted opening that sets the stage for the rest of this olfactory journey that is just beginning. The 'oud is noticeable from the beginning and can bring a level of difficulty to some at this stage, although I don't see it that way.
For me disappointing, an 'oud perfume for beginners, I expected a heavier and more challenging 'oud.

As the perfume evolves towards the center of the composition, the undisputed protagonist, as it could not be otherwise, the 'oud, announces himself with his intoxicating presence. Accompanied by the sweet scent of a fleeting floral breath of jasmine with roses and aromatic resins, the 'oud merges with nuances of smoky incense and smoky precious woods. This step can be a bit difficult for those who are not used to it, but it is very simple for true lovers of woody 'oud resin, it is not my favorite 'oud profile I really appreciate something more advanced. In Oud, each stage of its evolution reveals new layers of complexity and elegance. Still, I have countless perfumes centered on 'oud better than this one and that are more my face.

Heading towards its foundation, the fragrance reaches its apex with a warm and sensual base that lingers on the skin for hours. The 'oud Indian sweet earthy woody and slightly barn is not scary as many reports inform, it is more fame than reality, patchouli and sandalwood add an earthy and smoky depth, this 'oud used here softens a lot over time, while leather and tobacco add a masculine and seductive touch. A woody musky accord creates a comforting sense of warmth, while sweet and vanilla notes add a final touch of indulgence and sweetness. The perfume is complex, full-bodied, exudes virility, and the performance is good but nothing fancy, it is not an atomic bomb.

Overall, Oud The Spirit Of Dubai has a very woody drying, it is a complex olfactory work that incorporates luxury, opulence and mystery. Every element of this fragrance is carefully balanced to create an unforgettable sensory experience that leaves a lasting impression. It's an impossible mission to detect all this kaleidoscope of endless combinations and variations of notes. The perfume, whether you wear it on a special occasion or as a personal experience, transports you to a world of timeless elegance and refined sophistication. Oud is a perfume Oriental Cyprus Woody Spicy Floral Fruity Earthy Incense. But it's not a passion for me, I expected more.

Dubai - Oud is a celebration of Indian oud, with a subtle cheesiness that lingers from start to finish.
As it evolves, floral notes bloom atop the oud, creating a deeply complex blend where individual elements fade into an extraordinary whole.
Earthy, leathery undertones, floral heart notes and frankincense round it out perfectly.

As a lover of Assam Oud with its strong barnyard scent, I thought this would surprise me with its potency; however, within the beautiful composition, it is clearly a tamed Oud. It has a slightly sweet nuance that reminds me of other Spirit of Dubai fragrances, lending it a subtle gourmand touch. I understand that for those unaccustomed to Oud, it might seem overpowering, but for me, the Oud feels too masked. I was expecting something rawer, harsher, and wilder.

In Saudi Arabia, there is one of the largest cattle farms in the world, the Al-Safi farm.
50,000 animals are kept there - at 55 degrees Celsius outside in the middle of the desert.
The animals stand on the grates, the brown sauce runs through in between, and flies buzz contentedly around. This image has been wonderfully captured in the perfume Dubai - Oud by The Spirit of Dubai.

Cypriol, cardamom, pine, saffron, bergamot, pear, pineapple, rose, lavender, violet, etc. … has the cow already eaten and digested the ingredients?
The scent is bearable for me; after all, it sometimes smells no different in the countryside, but every country woman would recommend her husband, who smells like this, to wash up thoroughly after work. Why would I want to smell like this, just so that maybe a rose quietly joins in the background after 20 minutes?
The only one who really liked Dubai - Oud was my dog, who rolled happily in the grass after I sprayed my perfume sample.

In closing:
Please forgive me, but anyone who claims this is not a scent for "untrained" noses makes me wonder if they simply share the same preferences as my dog.