Dubai - Roeya The Spirit of Dubai 2022

Spirit Of Dubai are one of the high end Dubai fragrance houses very far removed from the dupe merchants and cheapy Ambroxin pushers that we see a lot of here. Last autumn I went to a nice brunch at the Atlantis on The Palm and walked past the Spirit Of Dubai shop there. I'd heard great things about Abraj by them so popped in to take a look and of course walked out with a bottle of that and a bottle of Roeya.

Abraj I will review another time. Roeya meanwhile was an instant love off the testing strip and continues to be one of those slightly eclectic orphans in my collection that doesn't have any contemporaries and does not sit in any of the constituent groups that make up the bulk of my close-to 200 bottle trove. I don't know why I love it. Maybe because it is so different. I've worn it twenty times and I still have no idea what it is about this one that keeps me coming back and holds such a sharp interest for me. It certainly is enigmatic.

So let's get the basics out of the way. The bottle comes in a natty leatherette case and is quite nicely done with a perforated metal finishing around the centre and some glass "jewels" adorning the top. Not my personal taste, but it feels heavy and looks premium even if it maybe the printing doesn't pass the detail test up close. The atomiser though is top class and the juice is incredible.

The feel is typical of Spirit Of Dubai fragrances in that it is very rich and extremely complex. So much so in fact, that I struggle to pick out some of the accords because there are so many. These are fragrances for experienced, discerning noses, I would say. Roeya's top is a lovely fresh neroli and some sparkly jasmine working in harmony with a sweet orange and orange blossom citrus note. This all works off a tuberose core that runs through this like structural steel and is what makes this so strong. These are not typically heavy accords but Roeya is a serious bit of juice indeed and I get an easy 10 hours off this. It projects very impressively the whole time.

The mid is a really nice papery textured papyrus and a bit of saffron to take this even richer. The base is musk and an amazingly dainty oud with some green aromatics and a cashmeran (and some Iso E Super?) blanket to smooth and homogenise. There is a greeny, leafy undertone too and some aquatic vibes from this as well. We have a lot to take in here, for sure. It shouldn't all work together but it does and the overall effect is quite removed from initial expectations. You only get the oud coming in after a couple of hours but it does gain prominence as this dries down.

I'd say Roeya is comprehensively unisex but leans a little feminine as long as the woman in question likes complexity and tuberose. You have to enjoy tuberose to love this one I think. Think "fruity, shiny summery aquatic florals" turned up to full volume. The blending is superb and the quality is right up there. If you're looking for chic Parisian minimalist refinement, this is likely not the one. But if you are after something of incredible quality and with real interest and individuality done in a very high end, big Middle Eastern style, then this will be right up your sharie.

Roeya is not a budget fragrance and it doesn't wear or feel like one. It isn't subtle. It isnt shy or reclusive. It is an assertive, confident fragrance that demands to be experienced and will get you all the compliments. I very much enjoy this one.

Layering suggestion - Kayali Musk 12 because of the shared aquatic and musk accords

Three Word Summary - Orangey Coastal Floratopia

Scent - 9/10
Drydown - 8/10
Sillage - 10/10
Bottle/packaging - 7/10
Performance - 9/10

43/50

A captivating scent that does not remind me at all of my beloved Dubai or anything oriental, but surprisingly evokes a walk through forests and flower beds after hours of warm summer rain.

The top notes are simply more than a dream and are almost intoxicating and unreal. I can literally see myself walking through the forest and flower beds. I feel the moss cushions under my bare feet. The pine note scents the air up to the sky and is supported by lavender and a powdery Damask rose. A hint of petitgrain gives the fragrance this warm, slightly green note that simply reminds me of summer rain. I see the dew drops on the rose petals and on the pine trees in the forest.

In the drydown, it becomes much more floral. Jasmine, rose, and many violets now shine in competition, and to be honest, the scent from now on simply smells more heavenly. I believe that the forests and flower beds smell like this in paradise.

In the base, there are many green notes present that are indeed very prominent, but they all remain soft and velvety and have unique companions in benzoin, vanilla, and sandalwood that give the fragrance a velvety and light sweetness.

One of the most beautiful green/floral perfumes I have ever smelled. I find the scent feminine, but anyone can wear what they want, and it is declared as unisex.
A must-have for me, it goes straight onto my wish list, even though I have never been a fan of perfumes with just a single green note.

A dream
From a bygone era.
Memories bloom.
Aromatic, sparkling mandarins.
Drowned in déjà-vus.

Cool clouds gather like smoke.
Fresh menthol notes can be sensed
and transport me back.

A scent that truly evokes something again after a long time.
Ambered in the base for balance.
Yet uniquely summery.

The sun appears between the clouds
and brightens my memories
of Romania. Patchouli-like dampness
Timeless, classic, exceedingly noble.
No other scent smells like this.

Oud-infused nuances resonate,
yet no animalic notes in sight.

Pure and carefree.
Elegant and irresistible,
at least for me.

Spirit of Dubai has quickly become one of my favorite houses; a brand that wonderfully combines this oriental twist with modernity. "Dubai - Roeya | Nabeel" follows the idea of "Sand of Time"; connecting the rich past with the modernity of the future. Has this fragrance succeeded? Let's see!

Let’s take a detailed look at "Dubai - Roeya | Nabeel":

- "Dubai - Roeya | Nabeel" is one of the few fragrances missing from my Spirit of Dubai collection; for good reason, as I still find it difficult to commit to a full bottle, because something simply feels missing; what? We will see at the end of the review!

- The fragrance starts spicy-fresh, almost herbaceous-green and peppery. A very special and unique opening, because it smells "simple" overall, yet somehow complex. Typical for Spirit of Dubai, as individual notes are very hard to differentiate because the fragrance is so well blended. You can perceive individual themes like neroli, mandarin, petitgrain, and a light rose, but for untrained noses, they are practically indistinguishable. The opening truly smells like a rainy forest.

- Afterwards, the fragrance transitions into a floral heart note, characterized by a light leather accord in the background. From the flowers, you can perceive the rose, but also jasmine; and thanks to the thyme, there’s a slightly green-earthy accent that makes the perfect transition to the drydown, which is marked by creamy woods, oud, and earthy-green, mossy oakmoss. Ambrette seeds are also noticeable and contribute to this beautiful drydown.

- The longevity is in the upper third, and the projection is also very good in the first hours! Here, one cannot complain about anything typical of Spirit of Dubai.

It is a great, beautiful oriental-inspired Chypre fragrance that has a complex development and is extremely well blended; but somehow this green-earthy aspect doesn’t resonate with me; even in combination with this floral side. Don’t get me wrong, the fragrance is top-notch and unique, but it somehow doesn’t match my current preferences. However, if you are looking for an oriental, special daily wear, you are exactly right here.

After the rather difficult, smoky-animalic experiences with TSoD, Roeya surprised me.
The fragrance completely breaks with the heavy and dark stable DNA. Instead of reminding me of a campfire/stable, this perfume, throughout its development, reminds me in a cozy way of freshly cooked, steaming scented rice.

Scent: 7/10
The opening does begin with a brief freshness of neroli and mandarin, but dominance is immediately taken over by an extremely soft interplay of powdery cashmeran and jasmine.
For me, this interplay creates that unmistakable, warm basmati or jasmine rice vibe.
It smells cozy, clean and gentle.
The oud listed in the pyramid is not perceptible to me throughout the entire development.

Longevity: 7/10
The longevity is noticeably weaker compared to its other fragrance companions.

Conclusion:
It is a very special fragrance combination.
Some people will certainly love it, but for me it is enough if I smell approximately identical after the buffet at the Asian restaurant. xD