N471v3

Because the opening is really so sexy and endlessly awesome.
12/10, killer scent, amazing!

This subtle fruitiness, Davana, cardamom, with the perfectly staged plum... to kneel for. (For those who can smell you even more... ;)
And it falls perfectly into the sweet-fluffy base notes bed, tonka, ambrette, patchouli, benzoin, etc...

What disappoints me a bit, however, is that the fragrance quickly develops strongly in the direction of the sweet-dusty, (admittedly really beautifully crafted) Le Mâle Elixir base.
I understand that they wanted to embed everything in the fluffy-sweet Elixir DNA, but why can't these really great accords from the opening linger more prominently in the DNA?

Moreover, in my own sillage, I suddenly had the moment where it smelled extremely like Dior Homme Intense (2011) during the drydown, as some people rightly point out.
And this DNA is indeed really nice, but Dior Homme Intense (2011) is the best Dior Homme Intense, so anything trying to score here can only go wrong. (Except for consumers who don't look at Dior fragrances and don't know the DNA. For them, it's a catch! Well played, Gaultier... -.-)

But for me, the fragrance would simply be 1000x cooler if it just stayed in the note constellation of the opening and didn't get lost so much in this old-fashioned, well-known, super-redundant sweet-powdery direction.
(Nothing against our beloved sweet-powdery iris hits, but the perfect iris fragrances already exist, that's it!)

I also find that in the drydown, you really can't distinguish the Elixirs much anymore, although I will get a small sample of Elixir in due time to follow up on this. :) So Absolu actually oscillates between DHI and LME for me... it's kind of both, DHI maybe more in the sillage.

It's a shame about the lost points, you could have been a unique 12/10, but unfortunately, you're just a redundant, solid 8.5/10, with the addition that people who don't have any other Elixir and especially no DHI will see you as a no-brainer with an instant purchase reflex.

But for Gaultier, #It'sGoingWell. ;P

I'm then waiting for the Le Male Elixir Absolut Platinum (or something) where the opening remains the star.

Haha!

After my "first impression" was quite a harsh critique, here comes my full statement.

Let's perhaps start with why I became interested in this fragrance:
Well, I just love scents that ignite passion in people, especially in myself. ;)
I am a big fan of sweet, expressive fragrances that are well-balanced with oriental, spicy, and fresh accords. But preferably consensual, intense, and memorable.

Now, I read in many places that this "Elixir" is said to bear some resemblance to "Le Mâle Elixir Absolu | Jean Paul Gaultier," but also "La Nuit de L'Homme (Eau de Toilette) | Yves Saint Laurent," my signature scent, my absolute soul DNA.

So, of course, I had to take a closer look...

Many also mentioned they see the fragrance more as an Elixir variant of the regular 9pm, which is in turn a clone of "Ultra Mâle | Jean Paul Gaultier."

Phew... you can already tell: One must create their own truth. ;)

LAST MINUTE, I received a sample of this elegantly appearing Elixir, and suddenly it was completely sold out on price search engines! :O
And since uncomplicated is boring, my package broke during transport, and the reshipment did not include this fragrance, as it was no longer available. Hahaha... the lucid nightmare of every perfume lover, right?
We all know that it probably sold out so quickly due to the unexpectedly good success/hype; I’m sure the manufacturer is already restocking.
But impatient and cunning as I am, I found another source that was still fruitful, and there it was, MY TREASURE!! (LotR fans will perk up.. ;P)

And I tell you, the presentation, oh my...! It really feels luxurious to lift the beautiful piece of glass from the large box. Heavy, elegant, valuable. And what everyone says is true... the "click" of the cap is very satisfying, in terms of ASMR perception.

Now, onto the scent... my first test was just from a small sample sprayer before I opened the box. (In the end, my critique/first impression on that...)

After extensive testing and wearing from the bottle itself, I must say, this perfume is really strong and convincing.
I wasn't very familiar with Le Male Elixir & Absolute; I only knew they were sweet and intense.
Now that I have tested Absolute better, I understand the association.

Indeed, one could say, 9pm Elixir is like a different version of Le Male Elixir Absolu, only that the fruity aspect with the plum, Davana, etc., was completely left out, and instead, the cardamom was emphasized, creating a resinous-sweet melt with leather and allspice & Co.

Thus, it is a Le Male Elixir Absolu that firmly shakes hands with "La Nuit de L'Homme (Eau de Toilette) | Yves Saint Laurent," yet remains close to Absolu in overall impression.

If you know "The Blazing Mister Sam | Penhaligon's," it also strongly reminds you of that, with less "boozy" undertone (better for me...).
The notes overlap quite well here, so it’s surely no coincidence...

So, it is a strongly sweet-focused scent, with oriental, smooth-spicy, resinous notes. It feels like a luxurious dark cream, spiced gianduja but instead of hazelnut, cardamom, so to speak.
Dark brown, golden, with green speckles, and almost alcoholic (boozy), but then again not.
And it "glows" beautifully in the air, so nicely present, and good in appearance.

So, we are moving in these realms. And I must say, it is really, really sexy.

It has also drawn my attention to the Le Male Elixir line, which is why I am now thoroughly testing the Absolu, because I feel the DNA is really catchy, creative, and just exciting to wear.

I even feel that I like Absolu better than 9pm Elixir, as it is just a bit more elastic, lively, less dark, and poppier.

Definitely an exciting, bold, intense fragrance direction, and this somewhat demanding aspect inspires me; I respect that.
(I hate nothing more than when a fragrance is boring...)

Thus, from now on, it will surely be a small part of my rebellion against the gray everyday life! B)

I know my first impression that follows is very contrary to the final impression; however, 9pm Elixir has truly fought its way to my heart. Perhaps it inspires you to give some fragrances a second chance as well, as I said:

The harder the fight, the sweeter the win. ;)

------------------------------- Unfiltered first impression --------------------------------
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I was really looking forward to testing this fragrance, as the scent notes, descriptions, and YouTubers had really set a very euphoric tone.
(Cardamom!, "So strong," similar to "Le Mâle Elixir Absolu | Jean Paul Gaultier," drydown reminds of La Nuit de L'Homme, blah blah blah...)

Expectation is your enemy!!

The opening briefly reminds me of 9PM (Ultra Male DNA). But really only for a brief minute.
Then it quickly turns towards "Select Night | Mercedes-Benz." In the drydown, it becomes fully Select Night, with a slight "pseudo-boozy" attitude, but unfortunately rather flat and cheap for my taste. :N

I then went to the Select Night (Parfumo) page to remind myself of what that is based on: And indeed, it is in this direction of "Noir Extreme (Eau de Parfum) | Tom Ford," only without the glitter & sparkle that TF has, thus much flatter and more trivial, and: without Kulfi.

Instead, it has this annoying "cheap rum" note... it almost makes me feel sick.

This also somewhat reminds me of "The Blazing Mister Sam | Penhaligon's," in *significantly* less high quality. And less expressive.
And I didn't particularly like Mr. Sam either, but I know he has his fans.
(There are rum fragrances that I love, e.g.: "Dark Rebel | John Varvatos," Severo... mega!)
But here the rum is cutesy-sweet, without counterbalance, simply more on the annoying, exhausting side.

So overall, the fragrance is not really bad, but also not really good. People who do not know Mr. Sam and Noir Extreme might be impressed by it, as for them the DNA is a novelty.

For me, a harsh disappointment... #NextPlease

And I would bet that 9/10 people whom I save from the blind buy with this review would be very, very grateful. ;)

Proof me wrong :))
(Or: Thank me later ;P)

#ForFans #RumBarrel #Overhyped

When a designer house launches a fragrance that represents a kind of "debut work," as is the case with this gem, Elie Saab's first perfume marketed as a "men's fragrance," I am usually all ears.

It's a bit of a statement to want to explore new territory.

And even though the "gendering" of fragrances is slowly becoming a thing of the past, I find it quite practical for understanding how a scent is intended. Perhaps it should be labeled "masculine" or "testosterone-dominant," so that it can be clarified, detached from "gender," how one might feel when rounding off their appearance with the respective perfume, or even making it shine.

This fragrance clearly identifies itself as a "men's fragrance," and it is highly likely that it lives up to that image more than 95% of all other designer releases this year.

You are drenched in dry woodiness, every ounce of sweetness has been squeezed out, and it is covered by an inky, dark melt.

It is a scent that comes across as thick and viscous, initially airy, but the more it settles, the stronger it breathes silage and projection, and it really stands there with legs wide apart. I can hardly perceive the myrrh; I had hoped for an anecdote related to Jil Sander's "Jil Sander Man (2007) (Eau de Toilette) | Jil Sander." No such luck, no sweet-fluffy myrrh, hardly any smoke, no tenderness.

We are stamping metal bolts in a poorly lit weapons factory during World War II!
(Duft-Vibe...)

I immediately had associations with scents I know when I smelled it, but I had to think a bit about what it was...
Then it hit me: Encre Noire Eau de Toilette!
In the opening, there is a slight reminiscence of "Santal Musc | Narciso Rodriguez," but it quickly turns towards the inky, viscous, dark Encre Noir DNA.

Thus, for me, it is too dark-dystopian, unsweetened, vetiver-laden, and unapproachable. And unfortunately, also redundant.

This fragrance clearly identifies itself as a CIS man of the first hour, who doesn't even know what that means. Because he knows no other way. He was born with chest hair.

Archaic, ruthless, dominant, and slightly egocentric.

Through all these characteristics, it leans more than any other against any trends and currents of our time when it comes to fragrance fashion. Hardly sweet, unapproachable, rebellious, extremely strong and present, even slightly intrusive.

Statement fragrance!

Phew... I think I need to pet baby kittens and eat something sweet today to balance this out... ;D

For all those who love cardamom as much as I do, so fans of fragrances:

La Nuit de L'Homme Eau de Toilette
Dia Man
Antidote Eau de Toilette
Le Mâle Le Parfum

...but also fans of green-sweet-spicy scents like The Tragedy of Lord George, this fragrance is an absolute:

NO-BRAINER!!!

One could even say it is the closest scent to Lord George that I have ever smelled, without being a clone of it. This DNA is so unique for my well-being that it is an absolutely usable extension for fans of the fragrance, and from now on, it will be a permanent guest in my stylish fragrance wardrobe! ;)

The beauty is that Essentiel takes the Lord George direction with cardamom, which brings together two worlds that I already enjoy on their own.

I love this slightly quirky way in which the citrus top notes fall into a balsamic-sweet, soft, green bed of the fluffiest tonka-patchouli bean. At first, almost too sweet, but with cardamom sprinkles, it gains interesting spice and a hint of orientalism that balances it out. The tomato leaf further enhances the fresh-green aspect to maintain the balance.

Sandalwood and incense ultimately give the composition some feathers under the mattress in the base, and a bit of ethereal quality to make it appear more mystical and mysterious.

I love Brioni Essentiel; it was an absolute surprise hit for me, one I could hardly have wished for more beautifully. It quickly became a staple in my collection and is even one of my most worn fragrances. Especially in transitional seasons and winter, but it also works well on a moderate summer evening. :)
If one wishes, even at higher temperatures, the bergamot with the tomato leaf makes it possible.

And the advantage of "aftershave-vibe" fragrances is that they never seem out of place, and this one is so tasteful that you always have a special note with it.
But please don’t think of cheap Gillette paste when I say aftershave, but rather high-quality ones that smell like the finest green soap.

The name Essentiel is perfectly chosen, as the perfume tries not to be too intrusive while still being maximally special. Delicate, on point, perfectly balanced.
I find the longevity really good, the projection very good, but not too offensively chosen, everything designed with thought and good consideration.

Absolute, unconditional N471v3 blind buy recommendation, and hats off to Brioni; this brand now enjoys my full attention! ;)

Hats off!

"Woody-spicy" (sic) I find a very brief description of this fragrance...

I describe it like this:

In the top notes, a fruity-sweet cocktail emerges with accentuated, lively, and somewhat demanding spice.
(Rosemary, coriander, juniper)
Through floral notes in the middle (especially orange blossom), it falls into an almost tropical-fruity base, a bit like a cocktail with melon and agave. (Not distinguishable)

Lavender, geranium, and oakmoss make the composition drier and give it some roughness back, so that the other accords have something to lean against, and it doesn't become too smooth.

The fundamentally woody, yet light-footed base is transformed into a very sweet-woody, pleasing mélange by fluffy musk and sweet sandalwood, allowing everything else to unfold and shine.

I chose the designation "water of the gods" because I find the composition very noble, special, and iconic.
A fragrance that stands out, very noticeable but also very pleasing.

Regarding relations (similarities), I would explain it like this:
This is a fragrance that closely resembles Montblanc's Individuel, which in turn resembles Joop Homme, which resembles Le Male. :D

As a color scale:
Original Santal - Orange-bright
Individuel Eau de Toilette - Pink-light blue
Joop! Homme Eau de Toilette - Deep-pink
Le Mâle Eau de Toilette - Turquoise-blue

They really smell like that! (In the most positive sense)
One could also call it the evolution of a fragrance direction, where it naturally goes from bottom to top.
And the Le Male idea has of course also been further developed in other directions. (Just look at Reflection Man or Guilty Elixir de Parfum pour Homme)

In any case, Original Santal remains for me a clear take on Individuel (which came before). Both are great, this one a bit more noble, Individuel a bit more poppy and dynamic.

I can recommend both, although Individuel's longevity is significantly better.