10/13/2012
Apicius
222 Reviews
Apicius
2
For The Very Cautious!
If there is a natural oud perfume for beginners, it is Dahn Al Oudh Lujain. I am not talking about the numerous issues of western brands which merely use the synthetic replacements, I just refer to those perfumes that seem to contain the natural oil.
Pure Dehnal Ouds are available by several Arab houses, but generally, they sell the oils. Very high prices and doubts about how much fragrance such a tiny 3 ml bottle really contains are IMHO the main obstacles that prevent natural oud to get a wider audience in western countries.
Fortunately, Ajmal offers some of these ouds the way we are used to – as spray perfumes! Besides Dahn Oud Al Shams I purchased Lujain, and it is worthwhile to compare them with each other.
Lujain is quite a bit more accessible than the other. That “healthy country air” smell, or those animalic-fecal notes that make Al Shams so thrilling are by far not as distinctly noticeable. Instead, Lujain shows a very homey character. There is a complex and somewhat alcoholic top note, and I smell hints of gourmandy notes: chocolate, apricot, raisin, prune in armagnac – it has a liqueur appeal, but without sweetness. Besides that, Lujain points at a childhood memory: at the fumes of a traditional German “Räuchermännchen” (figurine smoke dispenser).
One might be surprised that Lujain does not altogether confirm the usual cliché about opulent Arab fragrances – it might come closer to the fragrance experiences of a western Christmas market rather than an oriental souk. It is like feel good moments during the colder season. Within the western perfumery, I see some resemblances to the warm and friendly style of some perfumes by Frapin: 1270 and Passion Boisé.
Obviously, Lujain is dedicated to one main objective: offering natural oud for the lowest price possible. The very nice squiggly little flacon contains 25 ml (0,85 fl), and the current price is only 38 USD plus shipping plus maybe duty at ASF Dubaishop. Yes, you have to compromise! Longevity and sillage are altogether poor. You will find opulence and the full complexness of the aromas only at the very beginning. After one hour, mere woodiness is the main impression, as Lujain becomes more and more discreet.
Generally, it is not advisable to sniff Lujain directly on the skin where applied, especially during the drydown. Those beautiful aromas beyond the mere woodiness will still come to you a few times, if you do not force them. After 3 hours, however, Lujain is gone and one has to reapply – no problem, since the beautiful little bottle fits in every pocket. It is also nice to spray it on paper and use Lujain as a very discreet home fragrance.
Some perfume lovers will not take perfumes seriously that contain only one fragrant ingredient. And perfumers may very well feel stumped about an ingredient which is a) expensive and b) can hardly be further improved. With natural oud, I do not see lots of opportunities for an artist's airs and graces. Western perfumers and brands will continue to flood the market with bombastic oud ersatz – we, however, may glory in something so much better!
____________
Edit: Today, I get hints of vanilla. Together with the smokiness, I now see a resemblance to Guerlain's Bois d'Arménie
Pure Dehnal Ouds are available by several Arab houses, but generally, they sell the oils. Very high prices and doubts about how much fragrance such a tiny 3 ml bottle really contains are IMHO the main obstacles that prevent natural oud to get a wider audience in western countries.
Fortunately, Ajmal offers some of these ouds the way we are used to – as spray perfumes! Besides Dahn Oud Al Shams I purchased Lujain, and it is worthwhile to compare them with each other.
Lujain is quite a bit more accessible than the other. That “healthy country air” smell, or those animalic-fecal notes that make Al Shams so thrilling are by far not as distinctly noticeable. Instead, Lujain shows a very homey character. There is a complex and somewhat alcoholic top note, and I smell hints of gourmandy notes: chocolate, apricot, raisin, prune in armagnac – it has a liqueur appeal, but without sweetness. Besides that, Lujain points at a childhood memory: at the fumes of a traditional German “Räuchermännchen” (figurine smoke dispenser).
One might be surprised that Lujain does not altogether confirm the usual cliché about opulent Arab fragrances – it might come closer to the fragrance experiences of a western Christmas market rather than an oriental souk. It is like feel good moments during the colder season. Within the western perfumery, I see some resemblances to the warm and friendly style of some perfumes by Frapin: 1270 and Passion Boisé.
Obviously, Lujain is dedicated to one main objective: offering natural oud for the lowest price possible. The very nice squiggly little flacon contains 25 ml (0,85 fl), and the current price is only 38 USD plus shipping plus maybe duty at ASF Dubaishop. Yes, you have to compromise! Longevity and sillage are altogether poor. You will find opulence and the full complexness of the aromas only at the very beginning. After one hour, mere woodiness is the main impression, as Lujain becomes more and more discreet.
Generally, it is not advisable to sniff Lujain directly on the skin where applied, especially during the drydown. Those beautiful aromas beyond the mere woodiness will still come to you a few times, if you do not force them. After 3 hours, however, Lujain is gone and one has to reapply – no problem, since the beautiful little bottle fits in every pocket. It is also nice to spray it on paper and use Lujain as a very discreet home fragrance.
Some perfume lovers will not take perfumes seriously that contain only one fragrant ingredient. And perfumers may very well feel stumped about an ingredient which is a) expensive and b) can hardly be further improved. With natural oud, I do not see lots of opportunities for an artist's airs and graces. Western perfumers and brands will continue to flood the market with bombastic oud ersatz – we, however, may glory in something so much better!
____________
Edit: Today, I get hints of vanilla. Together with the smokiness, I now see a resemblance to Guerlain's Bois d'Arménie
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