Aube Rubis Atelier des Ors 2015

I was kindly provided the opportunity to test a few Atelier des Ors fragrances(thank you!), and here are my thoughts on Aube Rubis:

I really enjoy the opening of Aube Rubis: a waxy, lipstick-like iris, followed by earthy, dirt-like patchouli and the equally earthy but also somewhat spicy and aromatic sage. This wonderful bouquet is then dusted with nutty, chocolate-y praline. The juxtaposition of tender sweetness and sharp earthiness is entincing, and it reminds me of the dynamic between patchouli and caramel chocolate in Mugler Angel but in a less violent, more approachable way.

But then...it sort of just collapsed on itself. Out of nowhere, a caramelised amber sweetness, not dissimlar to that in Iris Fauve, starts to permeate everthing. The iris and patchouli are smashed together and become a plum-like nebulous sweetness. Aube Rubis is now a caramelised fruitchouli with occiasional surges of medicinal patchouli, and remains so during its 10-hour longevity. The sillage is moderate throughout its wear on my skin.

To its credit, I find Aube Rubis a more interesting fruitchouli thanks to its dynamic opening, especially the aromatic sage, and it's not among the most sugary fruitchouli, either. But the more or less conventional fruity gourmand patchouli dry down still left me disappointed. I would be hesitant to recommend it unless you're looking for a sweet fruity patchouli and has a sizeable budget.

Aube Rubis is about surprising bits of fragrance, anticipation of the outcome and pure satisfaction at the end. At least for me :) Black currant leaves with rather dry citrus notes, penetrated by praline-sweet accents, sage, sping violet and yes - without her it would be no fun - patchouli. That makes a perfect (multi) match. One of the most interesting scents from Atelier des Ors, with no doubts.

Yes ... I am a dreamer...
for only dreamers find their way through the moonlight and experience the dawn
before the world awakens.
-Oscar Wilde-

Dawn has its own unique magic, and Aube Rubis captures exactly that magic!
Read for yourself ;)

About the fragrance:
Aube Rubis starts immediately with black currant and patchouli. Not just in the base ... the patchouli is part of the mix right from the start.
I don't detect citrus notes, but soon a green hint comes in, which I attribute to the sage.
Slowly, violets give the fragrance a floral, velvety tone, and the iris beautifully powders the earthy-fruity scent pleasure.
With vetiver and subtle sweetness, it moves into the base. Praline? I couldn't say. Yes, something sweet is definitely present, but even more, the fragrance has a bitter-woody undertone.
What is not mentioned here but is definitely present in the base ... a generous portion of musk that harmoniously joins the vetiver-patchouli-fruit mix.
Aube Rubis is a dark fragrance ... not cozy and certainly not soft ... as if you were stroking heavy velvet against the grain.
Ruby red would be its color ... the fragrance is mystical!
Autumn and winter are the best times to wear Aube Rubis.
In a subtle dose, you can wear the fragrance in everyday life ... but it suits me even better for the night!
The longevity is around 8 hours plus, and the sillage is quite strong, but not overwhelming.
Unisex? Absolutely :)
The bottle has the typical shape of Atelier des Ors fragrances .. it is heavy and bulky, beautiful and special. The gold speckles are the icing on the cake :)

Conclusion:
Dawn -
the earthy air woven with threads of iris.
Powder-dusted!
*Cassis nectar*
Shadowy figure wrapped in ruby red velvet!

Yes, yes ... many will think - a fruitchouli ... no, I say ... very special!

Admittedly: It’s a bit embarrassing.
For years-no, decades-I had resisted them, they had left me cold, all the Brads and Leos and Johnny Depps of the beautiful colorful film world, I had only ever had a crush on Verdell's big googly eyes in Jack Nicholson's "As Good As It Gets."
And now, at nearly 50 years old, I find myself on the couch in the evening, pining-well: for the devil.
To be precise: Lucifer.
The incredibly sexy lord of hell, who no longer wants to be that at all.
At least not on Amazon Prime, where the second season is currently airing.
And it makes me melt with longing-but I already wrote that.

Meanwhile, as I now know, I am not alone in my girlish infatuation-men and women of all ages get shiny, wide eyes as soon as Lucifer himself appears on the screens, casually and elegantly dressed in Armani's finest suit, a mischievous, charming grin beneath dark sparkling eyes.
What a cheeky man, the personified sin not just in the Pope's eyes!
I’m pretty sure even he has his fun if "Lucifer" is airing in the Vatican…

"Aube Rubis," it seemed to me from the very first test, is a fragrance made for Lucifer.
A warm black-red scent, golden sparkling in draped darkness, warm and hot and intensely sharp, without ever being vulgar.
A "You must not!" for the nose, freshly picked from that tree which no one can resist, that thinks and feels itself, even if expulsion follows closely behind.
Wooden and consecrated smoke, holy, resinous, dense and deep.
Dark leather, supple and heavy, a sharp crack of a whip.
Powder, finely dusted on my pale skin, the bonds black and firm, yet never too close.
Sensuality, security, a dance on the volcano.
Birch tar, for sure, a handful of Ambroxan.
Very masculine, very virile.
And very, very Lucifer.
I wonder if Tom Ellis wears "Aube Rubis"?

What comes to greet you at first contact is immediately striking: an enormously positive, joyfully radiant, lively fruit that trills an olfactory "Yes, yes, yes!"
The undeniable lead role in this affirmative fruit bouquet is played by blackcurrant. The scent note of blackcurrant is quite similar to its taste note: it brings a deep, dark, berry-like sweetness with a dancing, sharp acidity and has a smooth, slightly metallic aspect with a hint of ethereal echoes.
I can make out all of this in the opening of Aube Rubis (in the initial moments supported by some bergamot-grapefruit combo)...
...and something else, namely patchouli. It has been lurking behind the blackcurrant fruity note from the very beginning. And surprisingly, it does not directly spoil my enjoyment of the appetizingly radiant berry. No, my scent nemesis patchouli only takes a short time to step into the spotlight alongside the blackcurrant note, uniting with it without any necessary phase of approach and from then on smells harmoniously and congenially with the beautiful fruit.
I am a bit confused now: This is unmistakably real, genuine patchouli. Not tamed, softened, or made salon-friendly to better pair with other notes, but clearly recognizable and typical. Yet at the same time, it is cheerful, dynamic, without cellar mustiness or a necrophilic crypt-like touch. The blackcurrant does wonders for the patchouli! It brings out the aspects of patchouli that usually get lost in the damp-earthy, plant-secretive, and moldy heaviness. Patchouli also has something extraordinarily lively about it. It smells in a way that is "busy," lively, urgent, energetic. It has power. A lot of movement. This potency is effectively set in motion by the blackcurrant note in Aube Rubis. The result is a surprisingly cheerful, incredibly dynamic patchouli. All my patchouli prejudices are gone, and I am quite excited to experience the further development of the scent.
The congenial interplay of the two actors, blackcurrant and patchouli, lasts a long time. It is the defining main line of the perfume. From the heart of the scent, the freshness of the fruit naturally becomes more subdued, but the character remains: sweet-sour-fruity, virile patchouli with a Kir kick.
Towards the base, the impression of blackcurrant becomes more restrained, and something else takes on the role of patchouli sidekick: woodiness emerges. Patchouli also has woody aspects, and here they provide a wonderfully suitable docking point for a not too dry, slightly warm, and somewhat smoky woodiness (if I had to make a guess, I would place Guaiac as the main actor of the wood note). Along with a bit of natural vetiver oil that smells of wet, brown leaves. There is still a small remnant of blackcurrant present, and the patchouli still appears charmingly youthful and agile, as the patchouli contour is now framed by wood, and the whole thing becomes a bit calmer and broader.
The development arc lasts a long time. Aube Rubis has significant longevity - however, it is not ultra-extreme glue-like, as some patchouli scents can be.
Aube Rubis has enchanted me, a notorious patchouli hater, quite a bit with this blackcurrant-patchouli pairing. By the way, it also works on Ronin, both on me and on itself, as it is completely unisex.

The brand Atelier des Ors, newly established in 2015, may be a bit of a test-tube baby of a few wealthy investors who do not want to achieve a good market placement with bold, artistically stunning perfumes, but rather present consciously classically enjoyable scents. Nonetheless, the perfumes are not pleasing in a generic way; they do not smell familiar or like something that has been done before. I was able to experience all five and in each, I smell a craftily solid and distinctly high-quality fragrance with a remarkable twist, something new and exciting. Initially, we only learned the first name of the responsible perfumer, but since Esxence in Milan, we know that it is Marie Salamagne.
She has done something gold right and composed a few perfumes that are definitely worth smelling.