Grapefruit
Cedar
Mandarin petitgrain
Frankincense
Pink pepper
Yuzu
Bergamot
Haitian vetiver
Rosemary
Juniper berry
04/19/2024
Schoeibksr
10 Reviews
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Schoeibksr
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49
The new heir to the throne
Alone, full of tears in the rain,
i wander through the gray streets,
and their soulless "Erba Pura | XerJoff" fog.
But there comes a rainbow,
and a blue Clive stands up there.
I climb on it, grab it, and see the tears drawing a line.
Spray it on, we become one, the citrus soul shines like ice.
Bitter-sour yuzu juices,
awaken my life forces.
Juicy tangerine peel,
brings a smile on these days.
All that's missing is the herbal lemonade,
and then I'll be in the mood today.
Since recently you can smoke weed, I could use the Haitian one.
Petrol soil, its smoke pours out,
and brings me into a new intoxication.
Balsamic incense joins in,
the woody cedar also spreads.
The end of the rain is not far away now,
and the summer soul is finally free.
Clive Christian took over Crown Perfumery a long time ago & all that was left of them was the beautiful, royal flacon design with the crown.
As the mainstream moves with the times, and big brands like Clive C. care most about growth, they accordingly moved further and further away from classic chypre & fougère DNAs & pandered to the modern zeitgeist (they still released some classic fragrances though), which is good for modern souls, and rather bad for classic ones (presumably also fans of Crown ?).
Because this can result in both great creativity & excellent blending in the interplay of nature & synthetics, as well as monotonous uniformity with a penetratingly high synthetic content. In my opinion, the former is the case here, because you have a pleasant fragrance experience from start to finish, which is free from the overly obvious & disturbing synthetics that are unfortunately becoming more and more common these days.
But now to the fragrance :
The combination of citrus is one of the most unique & beautiful I know, and I test REALLY MUCH in this area as it is one of my favorites (also own the pure oils of almost all the notes here). Juicy grapefruit, with sweet mandarin & bitter-sour petitgrain yuzu accent, all refreshed by the tart-citrusy bergamot... I have truly arrived in citrus heaven.
A dry woody note briefly joins in (it reminds me of a mixture of Cashmeran & Iso-E-Super), but disappears faster than it arrived. Because now there is herbal lemonade! This is how the middle phase or heart note smells for a long time. It's as if some herbs (in this case, fresh, cool Mediterranean rosemary) had been added to a lemonade. For a friend of mine, this also has something of a fruity herbal liqueur along the lines of Boonekamp, whereby the fruity notes could come from the citrus notes with the pink pepper, whose oil also smells fruity. The juniper berry also adds some spice, but it always remains cool & fresh due to the present citrus notes, which harmonize perfectly with the rest and merge into an overall scent. A very aromatic "iconic" heart!
What makes the fragrance really "masculine" is the base. The Haitian vetiver is beautifully smoky, petrol, earthy & woody with the cedarwood, but is never too strong. The incense gives the whole thing a balsamic-bright undertone, and this citrusy herbal lemonade always remains. This is exactly what a base has to smell like to me, beautifully woody, masculine & deep, free of powder or cream, but at the same time not too overpowering. All my wishes for a beautiful & special men's fragrance that is always wearable have been met here. My favorite top, heart & base notes with great quality have been harmoniously combined here & the longevity is more than sufficient. Can you tell how happy I am?
This is how 99% of the fragrance smells over 8 hours.
Now we come to the last percent :
The synthetic fixatives, among which I would include musk, ambroxan & another woody (iso-e-super or cashmeran would be plausible with this dry woody character. In contrast to musk & ambroxan, this one can be felt much earlier, but only briefly-periodically, as described above), are only subtly recognizable after 8 hours in the last rest of the fragrance, as vetiver, cedarwood & incense remain scent-determining in the base for a very long time & true to the pyramid. Contrary to their bad reputation, the synthetic fixatives mentioned are of the pleasant variety with a powdery-creamy & woody character, free of any hairspray sting or shower gel. Substances such as ambrocenide or dihydromyrcenol, which I can hardly detect here, would be responsible for this. So despite the blue color of the bottle (which I love), the fragrance is by no means a generic blue shower gel scent. They simply ensure that the fragrance lasts long enough without being noticeable or distracting early on, and I find that very important, as very few mainstream fragrances manage this these days. And as I said, you only smell them when the day is already over as a very subtle last remnant of the fragrance, so they are an absolute minor matter in terms of fragrance. We mainly owe the longer life of the fresh & other natural notes to them. The fragrance is surprisingly valuable for an aromatic newcomer. That's why I think the choice of fixatives & the skillful handling of the perfumer (whom I would love to know) with them is outstanding. Sure, natural fixatives like Ambergris could do the same, perhaps even better & so completely synthetic-free, but the price would then be even more beyond good & evil than it already is.
That also brings us to the point of price-performance :
Well, it's simply too overpriced for what it is. 450€ for 50ml! You don't need to talk yourself into it. Nevertheless, for me it is one of the most beautiful fresh men's fragrances I know with this DNA that I find quite unique. Similarly priced fresh Rojas, for example, are worlds below it for me in terms of quality & uniqueness, so they seem much more synthetic & generic. There are few that hit my nerve as precisely as this one & I've never smelled this scent satisfactorily enough in a very similar form. All the other Clives I've tested so far have also been less or not at all mine. That's why I'm all the more surprised that one came along that I fell in love with so much that I had to have it.
Thank you Clive, for this great fragrance & emptying my wallet ! This is where my citrus heart won out over my mind. But I'm happy with it, in every season & especially in summer, and that's what counts in the end.
Thanks to Cfr for showing me this fragrance back in the day.
And thank you for reading. :)
i wander through the gray streets,
and their soulless "Erba Pura | XerJoff" fog.
But there comes a rainbow,
and a blue Clive stands up there.
I climb on it, grab it, and see the tears drawing a line.
Spray it on, we become one, the citrus soul shines like ice.
Bitter-sour yuzu juices,
awaken my life forces.
Juicy tangerine peel,
brings a smile on these days.
All that's missing is the herbal lemonade,
and then I'll be in the mood today.
Since recently you can smoke weed, I could use the Haitian one.
Petrol soil, its smoke pours out,
and brings me into a new intoxication.
Balsamic incense joins in,
the woody cedar also spreads.
The end of the rain is not far away now,
and the summer soul is finally free.
Clive Christian took over Crown Perfumery a long time ago & all that was left of them was the beautiful, royal flacon design with the crown.
As the mainstream moves with the times, and big brands like Clive C. care most about growth, they accordingly moved further and further away from classic chypre & fougère DNAs & pandered to the modern zeitgeist (they still released some classic fragrances though), which is good for modern souls, and rather bad for classic ones (presumably also fans of Crown ?).
Because this can result in both great creativity & excellent blending in the interplay of nature & synthetics, as well as monotonous uniformity with a penetratingly high synthetic content. In my opinion, the former is the case here, because you have a pleasant fragrance experience from start to finish, which is free from the overly obvious & disturbing synthetics that are unfortunately becoming more and more common these days.
But now to the fragrance :
The combination of citrus is one of the most unique & beautiful I know, and I test REALLY MUCH in this area as it is one of my favorites (also own the pure oils of almost all the notes here). Juicy grapefruit, with sweet mandarin & bitter-sour petitgrain yuzu accent, all refreshed by the tart-citrusy bergamot... I have truly arrived in citrus heaven.
A dry woody note briefly joins in (it reminds me of a mixture of Cashmeran & Iso-E-Super), but disappears faster than it arrived. Because now there is herbal lemonade! This is how the middle phase or heart note smells for a long time. It's as if some herbs (in this case, fresh, cool Mediterranean rosemary) had been added to a lemonade. For a friend of mine, this also has something of a fruity herbal liqueur along the lines of Boonekamp, whereby the fruity notes could come from the citrus notes with the pink pepper, whose oil also smells fruity. The juniper berry also adds some spice, but it always remains cool & fresh due to the present citrus notes, which harmonize perfectly with the rest and merge into an overall scent. A very aromatic "iconic" heart!
What makes the fragrance really "masculine" is the base. The Haitian vetiver is beautifully smoky, petrol, earthy & woody with the cedarwood, but is never too strong. The incense gives the whole thing a balsamic-bright undertone, and this citrusy herbal lemonade always remains. This is exactly what a base has to smell like to me, beautifully woody, masculine & deep, free of powder or cream, but at the same time not too overpowering. All my wishes for a beautiful & special men's fragrance that is always wearable have been met here. My favorite top, heart & base notes with great quality have been harmoniously combined here & the longevity is more than sufficient. Can you tell how happy I am?
This is how 99% of the fragrance smells over 8 hours.
Now we come to the last percent :
The synthetic fixatives, among which I would include musk, ambroxan & another woody (iso-e-super or cashmeran would be plausible with this dry woody character. In contrast to musk & ambroxan, this one can be felt much earlier, but only briefly-periodically, as described above), are only subtly recognizable after 8 hours in the last rest of the fragrance, as vetiver, cedarwood & incense remain scent-determining in the base for a very long time & true to the pyramid. Contrary to their bad reputation, the synthetic fixatives mentioned are of the pleasant variety with a powdery-creamy & woody character, free of any hairspray sting or shower gel. Substances such as ambrocenide or dihydromyrcenol, which I can hardly detect here, would be responsible for this. So despite the blue color of the bottle (which I love), the fragrance is by no means a generic blue shower gel scent. They simply ensure that the fragrance lasts long enough without being noticeable or distracting early on, and I find that very important, as very few mainstream fragrances manage this these days. And as I said, you only smell them when the day is already over as a very subtle last remnant of the fragrance, so they are an absolute minor matter in terms of fragrance. We mainly owe the longer life of the fresh & other natural notes to them. The fragrance is surprisingly valuable for an aromatic newcomer. That's why I think the choice of fixatives & the skillful handling of the perfumer (whom I would love to know) with them is outstanding. Sure, natural fixatives like Ambergris could do the same, perhaps even better & so completely synthetic-free, but the price would then be even more beyond good & evil than it already is.
That also brings us to the point of price-performance :
Well, it's simply too overpriced for what it is. 450€ for 50ml! You don't need to talk yourself into it. Nevertheless, for me it is one of the most beautiful fresh men's fragrances I know with this DNA that I find quite unique. Similarly priced fresh Rojas, for example, are worlds below it for me in terms of quality & uniqueness, so they seem much more synthetic & generic. There are few that hit my nerve as precisely as this one & I've never smelled this scent satisfactorily enough in a very similar form. All the other Clives I've tested so far have also been less or not at all mine. That's why I'm all the more surprised that one came along that I fell in love with so much that I had to have it.
Thank you Clive, for this great fragrance & emptying my wallet ! This is where my citrus heart won out over my mind. But I'm happy with it, in every season & especially in summer, and that's what counts in the end.
Thanks to Cfr for showing me this fragrance back in the day.
And thank you for reading. :)
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