Top Notes 
Madagascan ginger
Lavender
Heart Notes 
Date
Immortelle absolute
Base Notes 
Peru balsam
Vanilla CO2
NicheOnly
105 Reviews
NicheOnly
2
Not fresh, not boozy, not special
This is the 78th 2024 release I am sampling with the two Atelier des Ors 40% Extraits to follow as I close out my 2024 rankings. Much like Chords, I see that the voted-for accords are non-indicative of the true profile offered in the latest launch from Floraiku, that being Rise and Fall. I did sniff the atomizer prior to spraying the scent and it reminded me of buttered biscuits. So prior to spraying, I was going in with the expectation of a gourmand fragrance.
Rise and Fall opens sweet, maybe slightly orangey, but primarily as a creamy-lactonic fragrance. These accords are highlighted by the scent being built on peru balsam and vanilla. Initially, the scent's structure is a lot closer to what I previously expected from Atelier des Ors' 2024 release Blue Madeleine, a fragrance that similarly should smell of biscuits.
At first, the scent has some very basic/cookie-cutter (no pun intended) gourmand qualities about it, smelling mostly of vanilla and/or caramel. This is making me suspect that the scent is capitalizing on the success currently being achieved in the market by products like Maison Mataha's Escapade Gourmande. However, Rise and Fall dries a lot closer to what I got in Blue Madeleine. With the Floraiku, the lavender is the note bringing spicy-aromatic qualities over the intensely sweet core while the Atelier des Ors achieves the same through the sandalwood being opposed by milk, balsam and praliné. With both the Floraiku and the AdO, there is a patchouli-esque spicy accord in the scent pyramid which in the case of Rise and Fall I'd allocate to the immortelle note. I can also somewhat feasibly assess similarities between the Floraiku and Initio's Rehab, a scent mostly built around the sweet-spicy accords that smell of lavender, sandalwood and vanilla. That comp is driven by the lavender being a key note with Rise and Fall in the intermediate stages.
True accords: sweet-spicy-creamy-woody-gourmand
Owing to the way the scent is built, I find Rise and Fall unoriginal, primarily driven by the simplistic sweet-creamy-balsamic opening which is currently having its moment in the broader market as well as the Rehab-esque generic drydown. The unique edges for which I praised Blue Madeleine aren't there with Rise and Fall, given the ginger doesn't come off with that same type of tropical fruity feel. Performance is quite average - while it is stronger than the AdO I've been comping it to, it is considerably weaker than the scents dominating the category. Floraiku as a brand has never been highly rated for value in my eyes and the €295/60ml retail is driving the low rating here as well. Ultimately, even if the blending is good and it has no rough edges, that doesn't mean there's anything praiseworthy here since the overall package is very much average.
Rise and Fall opens sweet, maybe slightly orangey, but primarily as a creamy-lactonic fragrance. These accords are highlighted by the scent being built on peru balsam and vanilla. Initially, the scent's structure is a lot closer to what I previously expected from Atelier des Ors' 2024 release Blue Madeleine, a fragrance that similarly should smell of biscuits.
At first, the scent has some very basic/cookie-cutter (no pun intended) gourmand qualities about it, smelling mostly of vanilla and/or caramel. This is making me suspect that the scent is capitalizing on the success currently being achieved in the market by products like Maison Mataha's Escapade Gourmande. However, Rise and Fall dries a lot closer to what I got in Blue Madeleine. With the Floraiku, the lavender is the note bringing spicy-aromatic qualities over the intensely sweet core while the Atelier des Ors achieves the same through the sandalwood being opposed by milk, balsam and praliné. With both the Floraiku and the AdO, there is a patchouli-esque spicy accord in the scent pyramid which in the case of Rise and Fall I'd allocate to the immortelle note. I can also somewhat feasibly assess similarities between the Floraiku and Initio's Rehab, a scent mostly built around the sweet-spicy accords that smell of lavender, sandalwood and vanilla. That comp is driven by the lavender being a key note with Rise and Fall in the intermediate stages.
True accords: sweet-spicy-creamy-woody-gourmand
Owing to the way the scent is built, I find Rise and Fall unoriginal, primarily driven by the simplistic sweet-creamy-balsamic opening which is currently having its moment in the broader market as well as the Rehab-esque generic drydown. The unique edges for which I praised Blue Madeleine aren't there with Rise and Fall, given the ginger doesn't come off with that same type of tropical fruity feel. Performance is quite average - while it is stronger than the AdO I've been comping it to, it is considerably weaker than the scents dominating the category. Floraiku as a brand has never been highly rated for value in my eyes and the €295/60ml retail is driving the low rating here as well. Ultimately, even if the blending is good and it has no rough edges, that doesn't mean there's anything praiseworthy here since the overall package is very much average.
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