Oliban Keiko Mecheri 2004

"Olibanum" is another name for frankincense, and Keiko Mecheri OLIBAN is a seductive frankincense perfume. Not that there was any need to go out on a fact-finding mission to be able to report that incense is by far the central note of OLIBAN...

Tobacco and rose mingle playfully with the deep amber smokiness, but this perfume is mostly about incense embellished. Upon application, I thought that this was going to be one of a handful of pretty good incense compositions (two of which I already own). However, OLIBAN becomes deeper and more ambery as it dries down, offering a much more sensual and addictive elixir in the end.

Oriental lovers should definitely give OLIBAN a big sniff! This is my favorite so far of the Keiko Mecheri collection, the perfumes of which I'm finding use notes of extremely high quality. It is also quite clear that this house (unlike some unnamed niche houses...) takes sillage and longevity seriously--as well they should! I heartily recommend OLIBAN to men and women alike for wintertime wear.

Gradations of olibanum and antique rose tumble gracefully through the nose with a brooding and beautiful undercurrent of ambergris melded with hay-like tobacco: this is Keiko Mecheri Oliban, and then some.

I first learned of Oliban through Katie Puckrik and her Youtube videos ("Katie Puckrik Smells") where she did a series showcasing her collection. Her description and enthusiasm for it, cooing and swooning, piqued my interest immediately. I had held on to sample after sample for quite some time, until I finally broke down and gave myself a generous quantity to enjoy with abandon. This is a charmer, as it has presence, but not dominance, as it fades in and out of your minute-by-minute conscience like a whirling dervish. I have grown weary of the fragrances that pummel for the sake of stratospheric projection. Honestly, its sillage that is more magical for me, and this has sillage for days.

The olibanum (frankincense resin) imparts that smoky incense sensation without any phenolic or meaty qualities of "smoky" in the usual sense (think cade, birch tar, ashes, so forth). No, this is that singular plume that emanates from the ignited resin tear, concentrated and redolent with the complex scent profile that can only come from the sacred frankincense. This, woven into the tapestry of garnet red rose is hypnotic to my nose.

The dry down highlights the saline, almost algoid qualities of ambergris, a mysterious and elevating sensation. The base is woodier, with a sheer cedarwood and nuances of plum and stewed fruit. Captivating and sensual, Oliban is a sensual incense fragrance, which is uncommon in a realm that is often associated with liturgical associations, coldness and spiritual solitude (those can be wonderful too in the right context). It's really what sets Oliban apart as one to wear to meditate or to seduce...

Smoke, very cool, less dense. And lemons, mild, subtly creamy, sweetened, rather loose lemon cream, a piece of wood and a small cold cigarette butt. Medium volume - nothing that takes your breath away. A flattering, even fragrance structure without frills, however quite fleeting. It strikes me as unusual, but not expensive. More for her than for him. Suitable for special occasions in autumn; it’s not for the couch, bicycle, or desk.

My first Keiko Mecheri fragrance. Of course, only in the form of a sample, but even though I know this brand and have encountered these scents quite often, I have never actually smelled them, at least not for testing purposes.

This is now being rectified. I'll start with Oliban. Why this particular scent? Well, I mentioned that I only have a sample, and this is what was included :D

The scent:
The fragrance begins with beautiful rose notes, with the tobacco already playing a role. Even though I usually don't like tobacco in a fragrance, here it doesn't smell bad, although it is clearly noticeable. Alongside it, there is bright incense.
A few minutes later, the scent takes on a light, sweet note. However, this does not come from the jasmine, but rather from the amber.
Nonetheless, the main players here are the rose, the incense, and the tobacco, which all smell very good together.
Caramel, hmm,… I could perceive that less. The scent becomes slightly woody in the base.
A sweetish scent is always present, but it is never very sweet. Unlike Angua, I perceive a "normal" sweetness, no cinnamon. Through the tonka bean, the scent (later) also gets a slightly balsamic or soft touch, while the tobacco becomes weaker.

Longevity and sillage:
The longevity is okay or average. Depending on the dosage, it can last about eight hours on the skin.
The scent radiates strongly at first, then recedes a bit, but remains detectable for some time, even though it won't leave a very large scent cloud behind.

The bottle:
The bottle is rectangular, black, and shiny. With its faceted edges, it has the typical shape of most Keiko Mecheri bottles and looks accordingly solid, but also good. There is an indentation on the front for the label, which… contains the label (what else?), on which the name of the fragrance is printed. Overall, everything is well done, but personally, I am always bothered by things like having the quantity of the fragrance on the visible label, well. The black cap consists of countless flat surfaces and fits well with the rest. All in all, a great bottle.

Okay, I am surprised that I liked the scent, very much so. Because as I mentioned at the beginning, I usually don't get along with fragrances that contain tobacco. Even though I don't find tobacco disgusting at all (unlike coriander, brrr….), I think that most beautiful fragrances containing tobacco are actually disturbed by the tobacco. Is it because I am a non-smoker? Not really, because the tobacco scent itself isn't that bad, and with smokers, I am only bothered by the smoke or fumes.

But anyway, here we have a wonderful rose scent that is surrounded by a haze of tobacco and incense. But the tobacco is mild and smells quite nice here.

It can certainly be worn at any time, so I won't limit it to a specific season. It smells good as a daytime fragrance, but maybe it also works well for going out, as the roses smell lovely here. Oooh, it must smell so wonderful on you ladies…

In any case, the scent is worth a test. As I said, I find Oliban to be a beautiful rose/incense fragrance.

Today I am wearing Oliban - and I feel luxuriously wanderlustful.

It reminds me of the comforting feeling when I boarded my father's vehicle - car would be too mundane - whose interior conveyed a similar aroma.

One would glide into buttery soft seats that exhaled gentle leather, surrounded by noble peacock eye wood, which looked at you with a thousand eyes and exuded a woody smokiness.
Here, one did not drive - one traveled.
A seductive hint of cognac lingered in the air, mixed with the offered caramel toffees.
My father sat calmly at the wheel - enveloped in a resinous perfume, accentuated by the indulgent odor of his Virginia cigars.
A lavish bouquet of roses for my mother lay on the back seat, underscoring the exclusive cozy atmosphere.
A crystal-clear piano sonata sparkled from the sound system, presented by Pollini.

This is how one must have traveled in the elegant yet comfortable Orient Express - directly to Paris - to the Moulin Rouge or the opera.
The landscape glided silently by, accompanied by quiet, meaningful conversation.

Oliban has for me exactly this cultivated, almost noble expression, which always remains comfortable and relaxed.
This is how I want to travel.