08/26/2025

Merlotsupern
90 Reviews

Merlotsupern
Top Review
11
Frankincense and the Desert Boys Affair
Purpose 50 is not a mere intensified version of Purpose Eau de Parfum, but in my opinion a better version of it (that doesn't smell like boiling pasta). Purpose 50 is earthier, denser, and overall heavier. The 50% extrait concentration brings out a mineralic frankincense, softened by vanillin and sandalwood, which tempers the dryness without compromising its depth.
The composition leans into aspects of vetiver, papyrus, akigalawood, and saffron, transmitting a feeling of a scorched terrain. The aforementioned addition of vanilla is used structurally, to make the scent more wearable though still contemplative.
I don't think that the recent Bisch's Amouage releases can be considered in isolation... and probably others should be added to this discussion. There’s a clear thematic continuity across these perfumes: dryness, incense, mineralic woods, and a sense of earthiness.
Talking about Purpose, we can say that it is the most polarizing of the Prupose, Purpose 50 and Decision trio. Dry, intense, and smoky. It’s a bold take on frankincense, with suede, saffron, and Mystikal adding layers of spice. I found this to be the most challenging to wear.
Decision, instead, is the simplest one in structure, yet perhaps the most versatile. It opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom, leading into a heart of myrrh and juniper, and settles into a base of cedarwood, vanilla, and patchouli. It’s clean and contemporary... less about earthiness, more about versatility. While lacking the complexity (and price tag) of Purpose 50, it’s arguably the most adaptable of the three.
Ultimately, it’s not hard to imagine Bisch (carrying a bottle of akigalawood absolute) and Salmon walking the same desert paths, absorbing the same sun-scorched silence and translating it into different olfactory expressions.
Each of these fragrances might feel like a different time of day, in the same place - and, unfortunately, this comes with a feeling of redundancy. Taste is highly subjective, but I don't think that there is enough reason to own them all.
The composition leans into aspects of vetiver, papyrus, akigalawood, and saffron, transmitting a feeling of a scorched terrain. The aforementioned addition of vanilla is used structurally, to make the scent more wearable though still contemplative.
I don't think that the recent Bisch's Amouage releases can be considered in isolation... and probably others should be added to this discussion. There’s a clear thematic continuity across these perfumes: dryness, incense, mineralic woods, and a sense of earthiness.
Talking about Purpose, we can say that it is the most polarizing of the Prupose, Purpose 50 and Decision trio. Dry, intense, and smoky. It’s a bold take on frankincense, with suede, saffron, and Mystikal adding layers of spice. I found this to be the most challenging to wear.
Decision, instead, is the simplest one in structure, yet perhaps the most versatile. It opens with bergamot, pink pepper, and cardamom, leading into a heart of myrrh and juniper, and settles into a base of cedarwood, vanilla, and patchouli. It’s clean and contemporary... less about earthiness, more about versatility. While lacking the complexity (and price tag) of Purpose 50, it’s arguably the most adaptable of the three.
Ultimately, it’s not hard to imagine Bisch (carrying a bottle of akigalawood absolute) and Salmon walking the same desert paths, absorbing the same sun-scorched silence and translating it into different olfactory expressions.
Each of these fragrances might feel like a different time of day, in the same place - and, unfortunately, this comes with a feeling of redundancy. Taste is highly subjective, but I don't think that there is enough reason to own them all.