Top Notes 
Royal Ann cherry
Almond
Indian pink pepper
Elemi resin
Red mandarin orange
Italian bergamot
Heart Notes 
Tonka bean absolute
Labdanum absolute
Milk
Peru balsam
Base Notes 
Ambroxan
Vanilla absolute
Saffron
Amberwood
Indonesian patchouli
Martinique rum
Nagarmotha
Siam benzoin
Thai oud
12/20/2024
NicheOnly
88 Reviews
NicheOnly
Very helpful Review
8
Interesting edges, underwhelming delivery
In some of my more recent BDK reviews, I have criticized the brand for their product being designer-inspired, most notably with Vanille Leather and Pas Ce Soir Extrait. However, in 2024, BDK has been running into other types of issues, most notably as it relates to quality and blending.
One thing that is instantly noticeable with Rouge Smoking Extrait is the lack of originality as this fragrance opens with the exact same saffron-cherry combo that is being led in the market by Gritti's Duchessa. Outside of the originality problem, the quality seems there at first, yet takes a turn towards the worse with a very puzzling on-skin blend, contrasting the cherry liqueur aspects of the original Rouge Smoking Eau de Parfum against ambroxan and some of the creamy structures used in Velvet Tonka. Prior to observing the fragrance pyramid, it felt as if there was a musk or a white floral accord in the base that was steering it in the wrong direction.
The scent then has another evolution thereafter as it transitions with a somewhat intense spiciness in the base, offering up oriental and smoky accords in the process. What originally appeared to be an inspiration of Duchessa with a creamy transition like Fragrance du Bois' Sirène ends up in a different realm altogether, potentially closer to a fragrance like Tom Ford's Cherry Smoke which I haven't tried. It then evolves *again* into a sweet-spicy scent with zero cherry, suffering a similar faith to Electimuss' 2024 cherry scent Caspian Cherry. This ultimate drydown is linear & generic.
Accords: spicy-sweet-creamy-fruity-smoky
The performance is quite mild with dead average sillage and longevity likely in the 8 hour area. Value for BDK's Extraits line is a case-by-case question, but €260/100ml isn't the same as when BDK launched their EDPs at €160/100ml. Given Duchessa is priced at €315/100ml, blends/performs better and is likelier to lean into the accords sought by the consumer base of this fragrance, it's hard to make a case for the pricing. Ultimately, I find Rouge Smoking Extrait underwhelming and that is reflected in where I've ranked the final product in my 2024 ratings with the scent ranking behind both Narcotic Delight and Sirène just inside the top 20.
One thing that is instantly noticeable with Rouge Smoking Extrait is the lack of originality as this fragrance opens with the exact same saffron-cherry combo that is being led in the market by Gritti's Duchessa. Outside of the originality problem, the quality seems there at first, yet takes a turn towards the worse with a very puzzling on-skin blend, contrasting the cherry liqueur aspects of the original Rouge Smoking Eau de Parfum against ambroxan and some of the creamy structures used in Velvet Tonka. Prior to observing the fragrance pyramid, it felt as if there was a musk or a white floral accord in the base that was steering it in the wrong direction.
The scent then has another evolution thereafter as it transitions with a somewhat intense spiciness in the base, offering up oriental and smoky accords in the process. What originally appeared to be an inspiration of Duchessa with a creamy transition like Fragrance du Bois' Sirène ends up in a different realm altogether, potentially closer to a fragrance like Tom Ford's Cherry Smoke which I haven't tried. It then evolves *again* into a sweet-spicy scent with zero cherry, suffering a similar faith to Electimuss' 2024 cherry scent Caspian Cherry. This ultimate drydown is linear & generic.
Accords: spicy-sweet-creamy-fruity-smoky
The performance is quite mild with dead average sillage and longevity likely in the 8 hour area. Value for BDK's Extraits line is a case-by-case question, but €260/100ml isn't the same as when BDK launched their EDPs at €160/100ml. Given Duchessa is priced at €315/100ml, blends/performs better and is likelier to lean into the accords sought by the consumer base of this fragrance, it's hard to make a case for the pricing. Ultimately, I find Rouge Smoking Extrait underwhelming and that is reflected in where I've ranked the final product in my 2024 ratings with the scent ranking behind both Narcotic Delight and Sirène just inside the top 20.
NicheOnly
Ponchoo
Candy311
SayreBea
3aloosh
