For those who have lived through or experienced communism or the early post-Soviet era, this scent will feel quite familiar. It perfectly captures the scent that many women past their youth, along with a few gentlemen past their middle age, exuded during the late 80s and throughout the 90s. Sometimes, even some households were imbued in this scent profile.
In this respect, I guess it really is unisex.
The fragrance itself is somewhat heavy and dark, reflecting the overall character of cherry liquor, which aligns with the color of the bottle. It has a spicy profile
When you smell it directly from the bottle, you can definitely detect the rum. However, once sprayed, it instantly transforms into a cherry liquor aroma that lingers for about an hour or so.
While it doesn't have a medicinal quality per se, it does evoke a cough syrup vibe reminiscent of certain fragrances from the 80s and 90s. Compared to
Joop! Homme Eau de Toilette , which is much more overpowering, this aspect is more subdued or toned down here and easier to wear, yet the cough syrup aspect is still present.
The opening and mid notes are quite similar, but fortunately, as it dries down after about an hour to an hour and a half, the cough syrup aspect fades significantly, leaving perhaps just a hint in the background.
I don't detect any smokiness or tobacco; the cacao can only be sensed up close in the beginning and is used to contribute to the overall heaviness.
This heaviness sometimes resembles almost something leathery, hinting at a slight animalic quality, though it's not really very detectable, at least not in the air but rather up close. The fragrance has a certain complexity during the first 1-2 hours, after which it evolves into a primarily amber, spicy, woody scent.
If I were to draw comparisons with other fragrances that evoke nostalgia or a retro feel,
Écrin de fumée has a distinctly vintage/outdated vibe. In contrast, fragrances like
Sauvage Elixir or
Boss Bottled Elixir are much more modern yet still carry a nostalgic quality. Even
Pasha de Cartier Parfum feels more contemporary compared to
Écrin de fumée .
Longevity is not a problem, but silage or projection are quite limited after the first hour or so.
The profile of
Écrin de fumée can be seen within the family of
Fahrenheit Parfum and
L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum OG, or any of its flankers (except for the Parfum because of the heavy leather usage). However, this has no vanilla and it still has an older scent profile. This is simply my perception, and it’s undoubtedly a fragrance suited for those aged 40 and above, most likely 50 and above.