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Marmot57

Marmot57

Reviews
1 - 5 by 32
Marmot57 2 months ago 1
Tea or apricot jam?
If you've experienced any fragrance by Dominique Ropion or YSL, such as Y Eau de Parfum or something like Papilefiko , you'll have an idea of its style. I'm not claiming it has the same scent profile as those, but rather that it embodies a well-blended mix of notes, almost aiming to be a blue fragrance in its formulation and expression, though it isn't one. It's not even as sweet as those I've mentioned, making it more wearable.

Some people might perceive it as reminiscent of tea or a warm drink, as I've heard others mention here and there, but for me, it oddly smells like apricot jam, and I'm perfectly okay with that! It's just not quite my style. Nevertheless, even if sandalwood isn't your favorite, this fragrance remains a very safe option.

I have not smelled the original one, and I haven't worn this scent daily; I've only tested it at home, but I can say it's definitely not overpowering. It tends to last longer on clothing than on skin, at least in my experience. It has a longevity of about anywhere between 6-8 hours, depending on how much you apply and where. It actually sits closer to the skin, functioning as a Parfum should.

It's not revolutionary or particularly captivating, just a well-crafted fragrance that you can find for under 100 euro; I purchased 10mll bottle for 80 euro. As suggested by its name "Homme," it's intended to be a signature scent for everyday wear during the autumn, winter, and even spring.
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Hard pass - major flop
I received a sample from Notino, and I must say, I have never been more disappointed in a fragrance. Over 150 euros for 100ml at discount?!

The scent is incredibly basic and so well blended that it lacks any distinctiveness between its note breakdown.

Honestly, it may sound a bit extreme, but this reminds me of Le Mâle in Blue as execution (not as a scent), or perhaps even worse. Like many Bulgari fragrances, the performance is practically nonexistent, and the scent is so dull and uninspiring that I find it hard to believe it won't be a poor seller.
It likely won't be discontinued any time soon, though, as there are plenty of people with money who have no clue about fragrances.
This is the definition of a safe fragrance, but not only is it inferior to Le Male in Blue, I believe it’s worse than Y L'Elixir and any recent Chrome or Polo flankers in recent years.

If you own more than 2-3 fragrances, this one is definitely not worth discussing. Try it for yourself; don’t just take my word for it, but I wouldn’t wear this even if it were given to me as a gift.
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It's a definite no from me
I can't recommend this fragrance for several reasons: the scent, the performance, and the bottle quality.

I bought a full 100ml bottle of Encens Suave Extrait de Parfum , and when it arrived, I noticed a noticeable scratch on the cap's sides. While this isn't a complete deal breaker, for a fragrance priced over 200 Euro, it's unacceptable. I also own Radical Rose Extrait de Parfum , which is a fantastic fragrance worth the investment, but it too has a bottle issue—the collar keeps coming loose because the cap fits too tightly. There are serious quality concerns with Matiere Premiere bottles, and I purchased my bottles from different sources, one being from Notino.

As for the scent of Encens Suave Extrait, it's disappointingly basic. The incense note only lasts about 40-60 minutes, and initially, it presents a vanilla-caramel and coffee vibe - like everybody is saying, like an expresso shot. After an hour, the incense fades almost completely, leaving behind a resinous or balsamic scent that barely resembles the original incense. The drydown reminds me of a mix between Le Mâle Elixir and a tamed down Bianco Latte . It does smell expensive and well blended, for what is worth, but it lacks any oomph/power, any depth or richness.

Unfortunately, its performance (and scent wise) is extremely lacking compared to Radical Rose Extrait de Parfum or any other fragrance in this price range and concentration. Encens Suave Extrait de Parfum barely lasts 6-8 hours (even when sprayed on clothes!), and after just 30 minutes, the projection diminishes significantly. It's not a rich or deep scent either; the hype on YouTube is quite misleading.

Could my specific bottle had been more defective, given my comments about quality? Perhaps, but honestly, I believe the fragrance itself is just weak and poorly constructed. I returned my bottle.
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Remove the hype and what is left?
This might be one of the least impressive in the line, at least in my opinion. However, I can understand the widespread appeal and excitement surrounding it, but only from a technical standpoint.

It has a sweet profile and is suited for colder weather, while also possessing a certain kind of cleanliness. It's neither stuffy nor jarring or heavy; instead, it has a clean, transparent quality that makes it easy to wear and like. In a way, I guess we can call it inoffensive but just as a scent (the amount is sprayed can make it too much, as with any fragrance, of course).
Yet, for someone with a more refined palate, it comes off as quite dull and forgettable.

The only somewhat intriguing aspect - if we can even call it that - is the opening and perhaps the mid-notes, where the apple and rose are quite noticeable. After that, the drydown consists solely of vanilla, powder, and musk - nothing more.

I've used about a third of my 100ml bottle, and I can confirm that the longevity is on the weaker side; on my skin, it fades within 2-4 hours, but it lasts 8-10 hours on clothing. Even so, the projection is only strong for the first hour before it settles close to the fabric you're wearing.

The price is fairly reasonable, especially considering that many other flankers have been released since.

The new 1 Million Night Elixir has a scent that is very similar to this one, with an added caramel note (it wanted to be a maple syrup accord, it's actually caramel), and its performance seems to be quite comparable (largely due to the way they are formulated).
Therefore, I would argue that this older 1 Million Elixir is the better option between these two, primarily because of the price; they are about 90% to 95% the same fragrance.

It still has better performance and is, in my opinion, a better scent than 1 Million Privé but I think 1 Million Lucky and especially 1 Million Royal are better scents (while 1 Million Parfum can be more challenging, but also better).

1 Million Elixir surpasses the original 1 Million Eau de Toilette (though I don't think that means much), and it is versatile if you enjoy very sweet scents due to its clean nature, but that's pretty much it.
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A scent for komrades
For those who have lived through or experienced communism or the early post-Soviet era, this scent will feel quite familiar. It perfectly captures the scent that many women past their youth, along with a few gentlemen past their middle age, exuded during the late 80s and throughout the 90s. Sometimes, even some households were imbued in this scent profile.
In this respect, I guess it really is unisex.

The fragrance itself is somewhat heavy and dark, reflecting the overall character of cherry liquor, which aligns with the color of the bottle. It has a spicy profile

When you smell it directly from the bottle, you can definitely detect the rum. However, once sprayed, it instantly transforms into a cherry liquor aroma that lingers for about an hour or so.
While it doesn't have a medicinal quality per se, it does evoke a cough syrup vibe reminiscent of certain fragrances from the 80s and 90s. Compared to Joop! Homme Eau de Toilette , which is much more overpowering, this aspect is more subdued or toned down here and easier to wear, yet the cough syrup aspect is still present.

The opening and mid notes are quite similar, but fortunately, as it dries down after about an hour to an hour and a half, the cough syrup aspect fades significantly, leaving perhaps just a hint in the background.

I don't detect any smokiness or tobacco; the cacao can only be sensed up close in the beginning and is used to contribute to the overall heaviness.
This heaviness sometimes resembles almost something leathery, hinting at a slight animalic quality, though it's not really very detectable, at least not in the air but rather up close. The fragrance has a certain complexity during the first 1-2 hours, after which it evolves into a primarily amber, spicy, woody scent.

If I were to draw comparisons with other fragrances that evoke nostalgia or a retro feel, Écrin de fumée has a distinctly vintage/outdated vibe. In contrast, fragrances like Sauvage Elixir or Boss Bottled Elixir are much more modern yet still carry a nostalgic quality. Even Pasha de Cartier Parfum feels more contemporary compared to Écrin de fumée .

Longevity is not a problem, but silage or projection are quite limited after the first hour or so.

The profile of Écrin de fumée can be seen within the family of Fahrenheit Parfum and L'Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum OG, or any of its flankers (except for the Parfum because of the heavy leather usage). However, this has no vanilla and it still has an older scent profile. This is simply my perception, and it’s undoubtedly a fragrance suited for those aged 40 and above, most likely 50 and above.
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