ScentExplorer

Every year again! The first intense heat wave sweeps across the country and the question arises as to which fragrance is the right choice. The right choice for the person wearing the fragrance, as well as for their demanding environment. In summer, I prefer fresh, citrusy and aquatic notes and usually avoid heavy fragrances. I find gourmand or amber-heavy perfumes in particular too intense and overwhelming in the heat.

Every year, when the temperature rises above 25°C, I reach for a well-known favorite from my perfume wardrobe. I can no longer imagine life without it. We have fought too many heat battles together. And have become inseparable companions during the summer months. We are talking about the Pacific Rock Moss from Goldfield & Banks. The name means "Pacific rock moss" - and yes, I'll say it right away, the name says it all and fits like a glove!

Goldfield & Banks: Founded in 2016 by Dimitri Weber, a Belgian-French perfumer who settled in Australia. The label has set itself the task of allowing Australian botanical diversity to blossom in its perfumes. With creatively composed fragrance bottles that combine French craftsmanship and Australian essences. Production takes place partly in Switzerland and partly in Melbourne, always with a focus on high-quality, often rare ingredients.

The quality of the fragrances is top shelf and the prices are still affordable. I can only recommend trying out this fragrance house.

But now we come to the protagonist of this, my review...

Pacific Rock Moss saw the light of day in 2016, the year the company was founded. As a unisex fragrance for the warm season, it quickly established itself on the market and is still listed in the top 60 unisex perfumes on Parfumo.

In the early years, the perfume had problems in terms of longevity. The fragrance had to face this criticism for many years until a reformulation was able to remedy the situation. If you are still browsing for offers in the souk today, you should make sure that the bottle has the white label. The less powerful version can be recognized by the slightly brownish label. And this should be avoided at all costs to avoid any nasty surprises in terms of H/S.

Well then - here it is in front of me! This crystal clear, simple bottle. It contains this bright turquoise-colored juice that invites you to jump straight into the refreshing Pacific. The outer shell knows how to please. The bottle is made from high-quality glass. The lid has a gold-colored wood look - although I doubt that it is actually real wood. The sprayer is absolutely top-notch and distributes the fresh water perfectly on my skin.

Pacific Rock Moss is a great fragrance that captivated me from the very first moment. The opening exudes a great aquatic freshness - lightly paired with a gentle citrus. The composition is airy, salty and at the same time fresh, slightly citrusy and green. I have traveled to almost every continent - but I have never been to Australia. With Pacific Rock Moss, I am therefore only suggesting a walk along the Australian coast. I close my eyes and in my mind's eye I am walking along Whitehaven beach. I listen to the sound of the sea and escape the dreariness of everyday life. Pure refreshment! It feels good...sooo good!

Pacific Rock Moss is not a challenging fragrance. But it is not a top note blender either. If you only like experimental fragrances, you should skip Pacific Rock Moss. You don't need a trained nose to enjoy this fragrance. It is very linear and that is a good thing. The opening is therefore a special kind of aquatic refreshment that lasts several hours. The Australian coastal moss is famously interwoven with the citrus and green fragrance accords. Lemon, sage & moss are the main players here. Together they form a fresh trinity that harmonizes perfectly. After a few hours, some "beach wood" joins in. Slightly balsamic and in the direction of sandalwood.

Pacific Rock Moss is perceived as very pleasant by those around you and also gives the wearer of the fragrance a positive kick of freshness for the day! The linear progression of the fragrance makes it a real crowdpleaser. And so I now regularly reach for it again in my perfume wardrobe. Now that the first heat wave is sweeping across the country. Because when nothing else works, the Australian coastal beach is there for me - there to refresh me in a way that very few fragrances can.

In terms of longevity, Pacific Rock Moss does not disappoint. Unless you opt for the older version with the brownish label mentioned above. If, on the other hand, you use the current version (white label), you will get your money's worth. The H/S is good to very good for a fresh fragrance of its kind. It lasts 6-8 hours on my skin, so it accompanies me through a whole working day if need be. That's all I need and want from a fresh fragrance of its kind. At over 30°C and outdoors in the sun, almost every fragrance wears off after a few hours. however, Pacific Rock Moss also masters longer bike rides without literally "giving up the ghost". However, you shouldn't be too sparing when applying it. 8-10 sprays are fine on hot days.

In my opinion, Pacific Rock Moss has a moderate projection, which means that the fragrance can be perceived very well for many hours within a reasonable radius. However, it is definitely not a room filler ala` Megamare - and that's a good thing!

Conclusion: Both thumbs up! The Pacific Rock Moss won me over from day 1 and has been a permanent fixture in my collection for years. I even bought a bunker bottle the last few days. And there are very few fragrances that I would go to the expense of buying a bunker bottle. That's how much I love this niche perfume. For me, it is one of the top 5 summer fragrances in my wardrobe. If you like to wear fresh, light aquatic fragrances in summer, you should perhaps try Pacific Rock Moss. It could be the start of a great summer love affair!

It's the year 2025 - and even though spring has got off to a slow start this year, a glance at the calendar tells me that the hot days are not far off! Vacation plans have long since been made, and you want to smell fresh and clean after a day at the beach on the Costa Brava.

Two months ago, I spread the good news here in the forum that PdM would soon be launching a new fragrance called Castley. Further research revealed that this could well be a freshie.

Here on Parfumo, opinions on the PdM fragrances are often divided into 2 areas. Some are of the opinion that PdM can't do good freshies and should stick to fragrances for the colder months. After all, Carlisle, Oajan and Herod have made the house what it is today! And then there are the others, including myself, who also appreciate their spring/summer creations and find them really cool.

A glance at the fragrance pyramid of Castley suggested to me that it could be a great replacement for my too heavy Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum. And since it had been too overpowering for me for some time, I decided to replace it with the new Castley. Brief spoiler alert...my plan worked!

Thanks to a lucky circumstance, I was able to call a few 5ml bottlings my own many weeks before the official release. Greetings go out to this dear Parfumo !

I had quickly emptied my first 5ml filling - and just as quickly it was clear to me that this freshie could also move in with me. In the meantime, it has taken its place in my fragrance wardrobe, and as I write these lines, it is lying gently on my skin! Just this morning, on a cool 10° Saturday morning, he was allowed to accompany me on my weekly shopping trip. But first things first...

Parfums de Marly is a French perfume house that saw the light of day in 2009. The noble perfumes of this niche brand are based on the era of Louis XV and are intended to tell of his passion for furious horse racing and extravagant fragrances. The sophisticated fragrance creations are intense, rich and multi-layered. Visually, the fragrances are presented in lavishly decorated bottles featuring images of racy horses.

Parfums de Marly aims to revive the memories of pompous festivities that entertained the royal court at the Château de Marly. The name of the noble brand is derived from this very manor house and pays homage to the bygone era in which Louis XV lived.

Well then - here it is in front of me! This transparent, gray bottle. The color could not be more appropriate for this fresh, slightly metallic fragrance. The design runs like a red thread through the "Masculine Signature Collection". It is timeless - and elegant at the same time!

Let's move on to the first impression: the aforementioned glass flacon can be seen as soon as the fragrance is removed from the traditionally simple but harmonious outer packaging. The simple design and the horses and logo cast into the glass make an impression and are extremely appealing. The lid is manufactured to the usual high quality, is solid and weighs a lot! As with all PdM fragrances, the sprayer is absolutely top-notch and distributes the fresh water excellently.

Castley is a great fragrance! One that is not only great to wear in the warmer months. Rather, it is an everyday fragrance that masters almost every situation and is suitable for every conceivable occasion. And that all year round. Immediately after spraying it on, this very fresh, spicy-metallic fragrance spreads. A peppery ginger-bergamot blend meets agikala. I immediately notice clear parallels to Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum. However, it is not nearly as overwhelming and much softer. This right dosage of agikalawood, as I perceive it, gives this fragrance its recognizable note. Please don't get me wrong. It doesn't reinvent the wheel, it's not innovative and you won't smell any fundamentally new fragrance DNA. But the way in which the individual fragrance components are interwoven is what makes this fragrance so special. It's a great wearable mix of Sedley and Bois Imperial!

After this sparkling, metallic opening, the finest neroli and petitgrain accords are added as the fragrance progresses. The peppery spice remains well dosed at the start and accompanies us for quite a while. Woody support is added later in the drydown. The labdanum gives the whole thing a touch of ambience, while the benzoin adds additional balsamic notes.

The fragrance does not undergo any major changes and is relatively linear in its entirety. It's a mix between Bois Imperial & Sedley and I don't mean that in a negative way - on the contrary, I really like what I smell. In my opinion, it has what it takes to become a signature fragrance. It's a fragrance that will definitely go down well out there. If you like more experimental fragrances, you should try this one first. If you are looking for a crowdpleaser with a charming bolt of character, you can buy it without hesitation.

Anyone who loves the fragrance DNA of a Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum but finds it too penetrating in the long run will find a more than worthy replacement in Castley. Because it is much more wearable and a lot more pleasant for those around you!

Whether the high price is justified is ultimately for everyone to decide for themselves. In any case, it is not cheap. And the expectations of the end consumer are probably in line with the price. Many will say that it is simply too expensive for what you get. For me, however, this fragrance almost has signature quality. Precisely because it smells so high-quality and is a blatant all-rounder.

In terms of longevity, Castley does not disappoint, because the H/S is good to very good for a fresh fragrance of its kind. It lasts 6-8 hours on my skin. That's all I need for a fresh fragrance of its kind. How it lasts in really hot temperatures and whether it will even find its application at over 30°C I can't say at the moment. However, I will report back here at a later date.

In my opinion, Castley has a moderate projection, which means that the fragrance can be perceived very well for many hours in a reasonable radius. It is definitely not a room filler like Bois Impérial Eau de Parfum - and that's a good thing! Due to its Sedley vibes and the associated feeling of freshness, it is guaranteed not to offend those around you. Quite the opposite!

Conclusion: Both thumbs up! The Castley convinced me and has found a permanent place in my collection. You can at least try out this niche fragrance to form your own opinion and not be put off by the price.

...Thank you Marc for bringing one of my favorite fragrances back into the future with Private Garden! But more on that in a moment....

The year is 2025 - the perfume market is flooded with new releases for the upcoming warm months. I find it difficult to find my way through this jungle of new fragrances. According to some influencers, there are some essential releases without which my perfume life would probably no longer make sense. I tell myself: "You need to take a step back, no impulse purchases, better sleep on it for a few more nights, consume less social media so that some new purchases don't get made." At least that's what I keep telling myself.

And then I read that good Chris Carbonnel has actually done it again. He has created a fresh new fragrance for the Gebauer House, regardless of the consequences! Mind switches off and Parfumo switches on. And lo and behold, dat thingy is number 1 in the unisex fragrances for the current year 2025!

Private Garden is its name. The fragrance profile reads like it was made for my olfactory preferences! I can, or should I say must, give it a try. Never mind the fact that I already have far too many fragrances in my wardrobe for the warmer months. One more goes in...one more goes in :)

And as is so often the case, a bottle landed in my letterbox from that wonderful place called Souk. Sprayed it on and immediately fell in love! Now you've got me...now you've got me after all...you old scoundrel called Marc Gebauer ! Until now, my perfume wardrobe had to do without a fragrance from MG, because none of them could give me so much as to let me wear them. But now you've got me...this time there's a spark and my fragrance hostel is opening its doors to Private Garden !

I didn't even have to empty the 5ml bottle to realize that I was going to order the full bottle. No sooner said than done... and here it is in front of me. This simple dark green bottle!

The packaging doesn't knock the socks off a perfume lover who is very spoiled by Xerjoff. Rather, disillusionment sets in here. But you can sugarcoat it by saying: "It's the inner values that count!" Nevertheless, there is still room for improvement if you want to play with the big boys. When taking the bottle out of the box, an aesthete like me immediately notices that the bottle won't win any beauty awards. Somehow the whole body is misshapen and looks cheap. However, the cap runs super smoothly over the spray head. At least that's something - the work here was made to measure. And then there's the spray head itself, which is really top quality. The fresh water is sprayed perfectly onto my skin.

Private Garden starts fresh and sparkling with a very invigorating opening. The green apple harmonizes extremely well with the Australian eau-calyptus. Bergamot sneaks up from behind and joins in. The result is a real freshness kick with a WOW effect. I immediately get a certain feel-good vibe - goosebumps start to spread. The opening has a very invigorating effect on my senses.

This great freshness wears off a little after about 30 minutes, but will not leave me completely until the fragrance fades away after many hours in a gentle drydown. As the fragrance progresses, Private Garden gains light, floral-soft support before the fragrance ultimately reminds me extremely of another fragrance. Warm, sensual, slightly gourmand and with a certain depth. But without losing its special freshness. A fragrance that I like so much. A fragrance that has unfortunately been discontinued for whatever reason. We are talking about Boss Bottled Intense Eau de Parfum .

For the first 1-2 hours, Private Garden goes its own, much fresher way, before it then takes the same fork in the road as Boss Bottled Intense Eau de Parfum and the two of them share the rest of the fragrance.

And at this point it's time to say thank you....Thank you Marc Gebauer ! Or should I say: "Thank you Chris Carbonnel"?

Thank you for bringing this great DUFT-DNA back to me for the future! A new modern version of my beloved Boss Bottled Intense Eau de Parfum with a wonderfully fresh twist.

The fragrance is characterized by its feel-good character and its suitability for the masses. A fragrance that brings back carefree moments/memories and refreshes them with this modern twist! A fragrance that makes it seem impossible to offend those around you. A fragrance that seems like a crowdpleaser par excellence to me.

Some people also smell clear parallels to Uden here. I own the Uden and can confirm this. However, the Private Garden is closer to the Boss Bottled Intense Eau de Parfum for my nose.

In terms of longevity, you will certainly not be disappointed with Private Garden, because the H/S is very good for a fresh fragrance of its kind! The fragrance lasts a long time on my skin and 6-8 hours are easily possible. That's all I need in spring/summer.

Conclusion: Both thumbs up! This fragrance is more than successful and worth every penny. It has now become one of my favorite fragrances in the warm months. Everyone should determine the price/performance ratio for themselves. For me, this fragrance experience is worth the money. We are dealing with a niche perfume from a very well-known star perfumer. The only downside here is really the unworthy OVP! But who knows, maybe Marc's learning curve is not yet complete and we will eventually see more beautiful packaging for such fine fragrances!

The year is 2025 - spring is just around the corner! Temperatures are finally climbing back into double digits and people are happier again. Basically, I already have enough great fragrances for the coming "beautiful" months...or so I thought! But then one rainy afternoon I watched the Esxence 2025 video by the ParfumKennern. It featured the super-sympathetic Felice aka Duftbunker, who presented his first fragrance to the equally mega-sympathetic David. Together with none other than Christian Carbonnel himself, the release of Tulua was created under the flag of the niche house KINETIC! The introduction of this fragrance quickly aroused my curiosity - I have to have it, I thought! But first things first...

KINETIC PERFUMES BARCELONA was founded in 2020 and officially launched in 2022. The brand has set itself the goal of transforming inspirations, memories and emotions into luxurious fragrances. The perfumes are produced in Barcelona and are characterized by the expertise of renowned perfumers and the use of high-quality ingredients, which guarantees a luxurious fragrance experience. Popular creations include Sillage with notes of oud, violet and saffron, as well as Kayu , which is known for its woody and powdery accords.

And now another release from this house. it is called Tulua - which means "dawn" or "rising of the sun" in Arabic. This time, Felice aka Duftbunker is playing a key role in this. It is Felice's "baby", which was worked on for over a year. If you want to know more about it, you should listen to the podcast about this fragrance. I will link it below. The fragrance will be released as a limited edition. When I asked, they confirmed that there are no other plans at the moment.

What followed? Of course - my first blind buy since quite a while. Ordered directly from KINETIC in Barcelona, the package arrived at my home in record time (albeit from Poland). And I'll say it right away - I haven't regretted it for a second!

Well then - here it is in front of me! This matte glass bottle in a beautiful yellow. The color could not be more appropriate for this fresh, creamy fragrance. The design of the bottle fits seamlessly into the previous collection.

Let's now move on to the first impression: when you remove it from the high-quality slipcase, which sits in a harmonious outer packaging, you can see the aforementioned yellow glass bottle. The simple design and the logo printed on the glass make an impression and are sure to please. The logo of the fragrance bunker is also included. Beautifully staged, it blends seamlessly into the design. The lid is very well made - made of plastic but with a self-adjusting cap. I enjoy using this bottle every time! The sprayer is absolutely top-notch and distributes the fresh water excellently.

Tulua starts citrusy-fresh. For a very brief moment, I can smell slight parallels to "Casamorati - Dolce Amalfi (Eau de Parfum) | XerJoff" - just not as spicy. Immediately after spraying, a creamy Amalfi citrus spreads! This great, for me new creamy citric will not leave me until the fragrance says goodbye after many hours in a gentle ambery, slightly woody drydown. This new fragrance note in my perfume world called "milk ice cream" makes this fragrance a true fragrance flatterer for its surroundings.

Anyone who knows and likes Marzocco Eau de Parfum will also love this fragrance. This newly invented creamy Amalfi ice cream fragrance DNA puts me personally into a relaxed chill mode that only a few fragrances can achieve. It's not just the classic summer citrus - no, there's more going on here. The fragrance doesn't make any great leaps and bounds and is more or less linear. For me, I can describe the fragrance as follows: The finest Amalfi citrus meets soft creamy amberiness, followed by a later slightly woody base. The light amber warmth makes the fragrance wearable all year round. And the way in which the individual high-quality fragrance accords are coordinated really makes this fragrance a crowdpleaser! I can in no way confirm the synthetic nature described by some perfumers. The Tulua is marketed as an extrait de parfum with a fragrance oil concentration of 30%.

Here is a little anecdote about Tulua. Last weekend, I received an unexpected short visit from my brother-in-law, who was on his way to a tennis tournament. I was in the middle of bottling some Tulua for some nice perfumos. "What are you doing there? How do you pass the afternoon?" he asked me. Now he had always known about my passion for perfume and this time he smiled at me too. He grinned even more when I told him the price of the bottling and the bottle. Now, you have to know that he normally hardly ever wears perfume. And when he does, he buys fragrances from drugstores because he is not prepared to spend a lot of money on his scents. He would never pay such prices. "Can I spray the Tulua on you?" I asked him. No sooner said than done! He let it work and sniffed it again and again. Oh yes - he definitely liked it! And so he set off for his tennis match.

From the next morning, a whatsapp comes in...what did you spray on me? I had to sniff my arm the whole tennis match. And his teammates also asked him about it. And the end of the story? You can imagine...I had to fill him up with 10ml of it twice because he was totally thrilled. A person outside our Parfumo bubble likes this fragrance massively - why ? Quite simply - because it's a crowdpleaser! Stand in the pedestrian zone and let the passers-by test it...the absolute majority will be thrilled. A feel-good fragrance that gives me so many positive vibes. Perfume art can sometimes be so simple.

In terms of longevity, Tulua will certainly not disappoint, because the H/S is really very good for a fragrance of this type! The fragrance easily lasts 7-8 hours on my skin and even if you don't notice it for a moment, it's always there and suddenly comes back around the corner. Those around you will sniff it - guaranteed!

Conclusion: Both thumbs up! I haven't regretted this blind buy for a second. It has quickly become one of my favorite fragrances and I will be wearing it a lot this summer. Although I would like to point out that the fragrance can absolutely be worn all year round!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6JO4yzkqnGs&t=3646s

The year is 2024 - summer is long gone and the cool days and even cooler nights accompany everyday life. "Now is the time for stronger fragrances!" Or as a certain Jeremy would say...power baby...power! After wearing Aventus Cologne over and over again during the summer, I wanted to give another fragrance from Creed a chance. Why not try the darker Absolu Aventus, I thought to myself. Before I knew it, a bottle was in my letterbox and I was able to test the fragrance. But just in time, one evening youtube suggested a video by Cubanow, a perfume influencer I really like. And saved me a few euros. Because this video was about the following candidate called Club de Nuit Precieux I

Club de Nuit Precieux I is often touted as a dupe for Aventus. And yes...I anticipate....for me it is the better Absolu Aventus - love at first sniff !

But first things first. I ordered my first blind buy since quite a while for a mere €55. Well - here it was. Packed in this beautiful, completely black OVP, this black bottle from Armaf is waiting for me. Armaf is part of Sterling Perfumes Industries LLC, a company based in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) that specializes in the production of fragrances and cosmetic products. The company has made a name for itself in the perfume world with popular collections. The Club de Nuit range, which is known for its intense and long-lasting fragrances, is particularly popular. However, the Club de Nuit Precieux I sets the bar even higher in the in-house ranking. For me, it is the king of the line!

The OVP is definitely something to be proud of and makes quite an impression. It's definitely more appealing than the boring cardboard fuss from other designers. When removing the bottle, the attentive customer will notice that although the bottle was made with attention to detail, it has a serious weakness. And that is that it is very narrow. For a 55ml bottle, it is very unstable and tends to tip over easily. The customer is compensated by its beautiful appearance with Arabic-style decorations on the sides. I would also like to mention the annoying "Club de Nuit" tag. It annoys me every time I spray on the fragrance. The sprayer, on the other hand, does a very good job. The spray mist is distributed finely and evenly.

Club de Nuit Precieux I starts off spicy and fresh. Immediately after spraying, a pineapple fruit bomb spreads, accompanied by a good dash of citrus and some peppery notes. This great spicy fruitiness will not leave me until the fragrance fades away after many hours in a gentle drydown. As the fragrance progresses, the fruitiness is underpinned by delicate, earthy wood. The ambroxan it contains gives the fragrance the power I mentioned at the beginning. And the amber-vanilla-musk mix in the drydown gives this powerful fragrance a wonderfully warming radiance. Last but not least, I simply have to mention my beloved lily of the valley. I can't describe it, but whenever there seems to be lily of the valley in a fragrance, it's a guarantee that I like the scent and enjoy smelling it on me.

In terms of longevity, the Club de Nuit Precieux I will certainly not disappoint, because the H/S is absolutely outstanding! The fragrance is a real marathon runner - it easily lasts 8-10 hours on my skin. You will notice it on your clothes for days to come.

In my opinion, Club de Nuit Precieux I has a strong projection, which means that the fragrance can be clearly perceived for many hours within a reasonable radius. I was often asked about this fragrance in the company. So be careful when spraying. If you use too much, you may well become fragrance-blind.

Conclusion: Both thumbs up! This fragrance is more than successful and worth every penny. It has now become one of my favorite fragrances. Price/performance is simply unbeatable. And yes I'll say it again....for me you are the better Absolu !!!

The only downside is the fact that the fragrance is virtually unavailable in this country. For some reason, Armaf has left our good old Germany out of the equation. What a shame - it had the potential to be a blockbuster!