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Notes08/06/2020
Sailor2
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Sailor2
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A cabaret without an audience - Fougére with a washboard stomach
As a surprise, I once received a Cabaret Homme sample that I liked so much that I thought: this textbook fougère scent by Grès deserves a comment more!
Grès was founded in 1942 by Alix Gres as a fashion brand. Her original name was Germaine Krebs (born in 1903), but after the first name of her husband, the Russian painter Serge Czerefkov (egreS, gres, Grès), she decided to carry this name. Alix Gres was initially successful with fashion in Paris. She then came back from a trip to India in 1956 with scent impressions, which, with the help of perfumer Bernard Chant, led to the creation of her own perfume creation called "Cabochard" (Stubborn) in 1959 (and set a new trend "Chypre with Leather"). There's a well-done Cabochard revival from 2019.
In the 1980s she had to sell first the perfume house, then the fashion house (the latter was discontinued). Grès used to belong to Escada in the 90s, but was sold to the Art & Fragrance group in 2001 (Lalique Group). These include Alain Delon, Bentley, Jaguar and Lalique. The listed Lalique Group has its registered office in Zurich.
Cabaret Homme was released in 2004, one year after the women's version was released. The nose behind Cabaret Homme is Pierre Bourdon. His works include Kouros (1981), Green Irish Tweed (1985), Bois de Portugal (1987), Cool Water (1988), Jil Sunder Sun (1989) - all within a decade! Hats off. In 2015 Pierre Bourdon even established his own perfume line with five fragrances.
I would certainly not have thought of testing Cabaret Homme myself. My first impression was: 90s scent! It's not true, but I have this subjective category for certain, clearly masculine scents (often with an after-shave vibe) - regardless of the year of release - such as Percival. But if you look closer - or let's say smell - Cabaret Homme reminds you of the soapy subgenre from the 80s with Drakkar Noir ('82) or Xeryus ('86).
Cabaret Homme is a masterfully balanced fougère fragrance. An olfactory journey from the fruity, soapy masculine top note to the soapy, aromatic-woody drydown. The composition seems so unique to me that I couldn't describe it without taking a look at the scent pyramid. Top note: "Pineapple, basil, bergamot, coriander, rosemary, juniper berry" - yes, I believe all that, the berry-fruity with pineapple is great. Everything is harmoniously balanced, lavender is added and some floral notes. Nothing earth-shattering, but pleasant (sometimes a bit too sweet for me). Warmth and a certain sensuality are there. On the one hand "oldschool man", on the other hand modern and fresh. Durability is average, Sillage is moderate but suitable
It has been explained by experts that although aquatic or ozone notes were dominant in the early 00s, Tom Ford - then at LVMH - revived traditional masculine fragrances/lines. Grès joined this traditional direction with Cabaret Homme. But they also wanted to be modern, which is why they created a commercial with a washboard belly á la Fierce, which had been released shortly before (the commercial is easy to find; I sent it here a week or two ago, but it hasn't been released under the fragrance yet).
Cabaret Homme is a creation for the man who knows what he wants in life and seduction is part of his personality - haha, that's what the marketing nonsense of the women's version was called back then (here transferred to Cabaret Homme). In another forum, someone once unravelled why Cabaret Homme stays so under the radar: For classic Fougére lovers, the fragrance is probably too sweet and modern. But for mainstream tastes looking for an office-safe everyday scent, this creation is all too retro (and the Grès brand is unknown to many men). A cabaret without an audience, so to speak. At first, I put my sample aside until I discovered how unique and retro, yet pleasantly suitable for everyday use, the fragrance is.
There is also Cabaret Homme After Shave, deodorant and shower gel. The flacon design is reminiscent of Must de Cartier (and a red curtain in a classic cabaret). The name? Fits perfectly into the "cab" tradition with Cabochard or Cabotine by Grès.
Cabaret Homme is truly an individual choice. This means that "man" wears a fragrance that is definitely not to be smelled on every corner.
Grès was founded in 1942 by Alix Gres as a fashion brand. Her original name was Germaine Krebs (born in 1903), but after the first name of her husband, the Russian painter Serge Czerefkov (egreS, gres, Grès), she decided to carry this name. Alix Gres was initially successful with fashion in Paris. She then came back from a trip to India in 1956 with scent impressions, which, with the help of perfumer Bernard Chant, led to the creation of her own perfume creation called "Cabochard" (Stubborn) in 1959 (and set a new trend "Chypre with Leather"). There's a well-done Cabochard revival from 2019.
In the 1980s she had to sell first the perfume house, then the fashion house (the latter was discontinued). Grès used to belong to Escada in the 90s, but was sold to the Art & Fragrance group in 2001 (Lalique Group). These include Alain Delon, Bentley, Jaguar and Lalique. The listed Lalique Group has its registered office in Zurich.
Cabaret Homme was released in 2004, one year after the women's version was released. The nose behind Cabaret Homme is Pierre Bourdon. His works include Kouros (1981), Green Irish Tweed (1985), Bois de Portugal (1987), Cool Water (1988), Jil Sunder Sun (1989) - all within a decade! Hats off. In 2015 Pierre Bourdon even established his own perfume line with five fragrances.
I would certainly not have thought of testing Cabaret Homme myself. My first impression was: 90s scent! It's not true, but I have this subjective category for certain, clearly masculine scents (often with an after-shave vibe) - regardless of the year of release - such as Percival. But if you look closer - or let's say smell - Cabaret Homme reminds you of the soapy subgenre from the 80s with Drakkar Noir ('82) or Xeryus ('86).
Cabaret Homme is a masterfully balanced fougère fragrance. An olfactory journey from the fruity, soapy masculine top note to the soapy, aromatic-woody drydown. The composition seems so unique to me that I couldn't describe it without taking a look at the scent pyramid. Top note: "Pineapple, basil, bergamot, coriander, rosemary, juniper berry" - yes, I believe all that, the berry-fruity with pineapple is great. Everything is harmoniously balanced, lavender is added and some floral notes. Nothing earth-shattering, but pleasant (sometimes a bit too sweet for me). Warmth and a certain sensuality are there. On the one hand "oldschool man", on the other hand modern and fresh. Durability is average, Sillage is moderate but suitable
It has been explained by experts that although aquatic or ozone notes were dominant in the early 00s, Tom Ford - then at LVMH - revived traditional masculine fragrances/lines. Grès joined this traditional direction with Cabaret Homme. But they also wanted to be modern, which is why they created a commercial with a washboard belly á la Fierce, which had been released shortly before (the commercial is easy to find; I sent it here a week or two ago, but it hasn't been released under the fragrance yet).
Cabaret Homme is a creation for the man who knows what he wants in life and seduction is part of his personality - haha, that's what the marketing nonsense of the women's version was called back then (here transferred to Cabaret Homme). In another forum, someone once unravelled why Cabaret Homme stays so under the radar: For classic Fougére lovers, the fragrance is probably too sweet and modern. But for mainstream tastes looking for an office-safe everyday scent, this creation is all too retro (and the Grès brand is unknown to many men). A cabaret without an audience, so to speak. At first, I put my sample aside until I discovered how unique and retro, yet pleasantly suitable for everyday use, the fragrance is.
There is also Cabaret Homme After Shave, deodorant and shower gel. The flacon design is reminiscent of Must de Cartier (and a red curtain in a classic cabaret). The name? Fits perfectly into the "cab" tradition with Cabochard or Cabotine by Grès.
Cabaret Homme is truly an individual choice. This means that "man" wears a fragrance that is definitely not to be smelled on every corner.
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