I actually just wanted to look for patchouli fragrances. Among others, Montale's "Patchouli Leaves" was recommended to me. When I wanted to gather information here, I saw on the right the new fragrance from Montale: "Oud Dream," which is also listed with patchouli leaves, oud, AND rose. Oud and rose are always worth a try for me. But with oud and patchouli, it's a bit of a mixed bag; I have "Aoud" by Micallef, which is also called patchouli; it has a slight leather note in the sillage after some time of development for me. While I hardly perceive patchouli. So oud and patchouli could mean a slight leather note for me, which I don't particularly appreciate.
However, I found an offer for a small amount of "Oud Dream," after I realized that "Oud Dreams" is not yet available online. This sparked my hunting instinct: I had to buy it immediately!
Applied early in the morning, I immediately smelled a moderate woody oud, then a fruity note, rose or raspberry, and at the same time during the first test, a sweet licorice note. But also a clove scent, at least a spice mix in that direction, which disappointed me a bit. Then a fine creamy musk developed underneath, and "Oud Dream" became softer, more pleasant. Oud had meanwhile disappeared from my perception; I smelled at most something woody.
However, time and again, I caught a whiff of that clove scent from my wrists. Clove, yet not quite, what could that be?
Moreover, I realized that "Oud Dream" is not a typical Montale fragrance. At noon, I wanted to know for sure: I applied the fragrance to my décolletage! And there it no longer smelled of licorice and yet had a hint of sweetness. Overall, "Oud Dream" rose a bit softer, more pleasant to my nose. Although not balsamic-resinous.
The longevity is very good; I smelled on my wrists a clove-heavy spicy-woody, slightly cold-fresh scent, menthol-like, and otherwise more musk, hardly any rose. The typical Montale oud I did not smell at all.
Still, a nice bitter fragrance, somewhat unusual - for Montale.
And then the various fragrances from Lutens came to mind that I have tested, all of which smell of cloves, and I thought amused: Montale goes Lutens?
Such as: 'L'Orpheline/Vitriol d'OEillett/Féminité du bois/Iris silver mist' by Lutens.
"Oud Dream," however, is not so sharply clove-like. Moreover, the clove scent is not entirely identical to that of Lutens.
Since I couldn't find "Oud Dreams" online, I called up Montale's website, and there it said about "Oud Dreams":
"A wonderfully exotic, spicy and honeyed fragrance. Gently sweet and slightly musky, Oud Dream is a sensual and bewitching fragrance.
The Rose, the Oud and the Patchouli leaves envelop, as in a dream, this new refined creation with a leathery sillage."
I do not perceive the leathery sillage. Otherwise, I was right about the spice and the musk. There is also a bit of sweetness.
But I still couldn't quite grasp "spicy fragrance."
Then, however, I remembered that I recently bought some pure wood, resin, and balsam essential oils to have them as reference notes during testing.
They were all strictly woody, resinous sharp, mineral oily, camphor-like, depending on which one, except for Mysore sandalwood oil. (Since then, I have serious doubts about whether I, as a layperson, will ever be able to match that with perfume notes). It has also become even more puzzling to me how such beautiful perfumes can be made from them.
But I found in my detailed notes on these oils:
Rosewood oil corresponds roughly to the spicy note that I perceive in "Oud Dreams."
I did not apply it again to my skin, just a trace on a test strip.
Because these oils are highly irritating to the skin, as I found out.
Rosewood oil smells sharp-woody and like a mix of clove, menthol, camphor or/and menthol, and after a while slightly like ozone. That could fit what my perception of the quasi-clove oil is.
Meanwhile, after over 12 hours, only a faint scent of musk and/or sandalwood could be perceived on my wrists.
After I had checked that, I threw the rosewood test strip in the trash and took a shower, protecting everything with odorless cream, checking whether there were still traces of "Oud Dream" to be perceived, and applied "Oud Dreams" again quite generously.
Everything is as it was before.
I like "Oud Dreams" even though I had imagined it differently. It is not a sweet fragrance and not at all what I have known from Montale so far.
I have not owned a fragrance of this character yet; I have always postponed a purchase from Lutens whenever I saw the prices. Therefore, I do not regret my spontaneous little blind purchase at all; on the contrary.
Anyone who likes Lutens fragrances and bitter scents with clove should test "Oud Dream." Unisex? Sure!
Top Notes 
Bergamot
Black pepper
Cardamom
Coriander
Honey
Heart Notes 
Rose
Patchouli
Laotian oud
Base Notes 
Amber
Cedarwood
Leather
White musk
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