Tuxedo Ralph Lauren 1979 Eau de Toilette

Tuxedo is mysterious and sexy, a shadowy chypre that doesn't merely pay homage to its hallowed forebears—it takes their delicacy and adds a dusky depth. There is the usual Ominum gatherum of fancy, flirty florals all humid and sumptuous, the ylang ylang, jasmine, narcissus, all in an emulsion of milky peach. However, this isn't just a 70s reinvention of Mitsouko. No, Tuxedo is far more chewy, unctuous even, with a thick, viscous expansion of labdanum and a magnificent emblazoning of oakmoss and vetiver. The result is drenched foliage and damp wood in the most enchanted, covert corners of a forest. I even pick up suggestions of fennel and tarragon in the mix.

Something about its base seems almost like a tobacco, and recalls Habanita or even Tabac Blond. It's remarkable that for a fragrance of its time, it gives flashbacks of classics from nearly fifty years prior to its release. I often mention those perfumes that take a theme from the past and modernize it for its contemporary palate, and Tuxedo could fall into that category, as there's something also quintessentially of its time as well. It has a radiance and persistent fond that belies its supposed cologne concentration: the dry down is unreal. God, it's good. I do my best to avoid clichés like "smelling like old money" or "luxury", but I will say that the next time I ever mind myself attending a black tie affair, Tuxedo will be the one to wear.

Tuxedo! What a beautiful English word for smoking jacket. A tuxedo is probably the highest form of evening wear for men. But not just for men. Women also prefer a tuxedo, specifically a women's tuxedo. Of course, I find evening gowns stunning to look at, but I have always been more fascinated by a lady in a tuxedo than a lady in an evening gown. What is the reason for that? I have always enjoyed the interplay of the genders! Pure, sensual femininity paired with masculine elegance and severity. I know what I’m talking about. Mrs. Can exclusively prefers this style for festivities and has outshone many an evening gown. In 1979, Ralph Lauren introduced Tuxedo and dedicated a fragrance to the eponymous garment that olfactorily makes the boundaries of gender disappear.

Tuxedo is designed for the evening, that much can be said. This perfume requires a certain strength and a firm will to smell “different” from one’s surroundings. Tuxedo opens with a generous dose of aldehydes, in which very floral-spicy notes are already well hidden. The scent of tarragon and coriander rises, lightly underlaid with sour citrus. This image soon changes. Floral, dark notes push forward. Gardenia is very recognizable. Likewise, lilies and daffodils, along with a very subtle fruitiness of peach. One might think that the perfume would gain a certain sweetness from the floral notes, but it is hardly ever sweet. It is darkened and restrained by a very spicy-bitter clove of the old school. It constantly shifts between floral and spicy notes like a chameleon, appearing rather dry and serious than cheerful and fresh. In the final base note, the boundaries completely blur. A very herbaceous, rough leather mixes in, laying over everything that has come before. Accompanied by very real, rough-crystalline oak moss and slightly sweet resins from dry amber and spicy-soft benzoin, over which ultimately a very deep, smoky-sensual vetiver is laid. A very corporeal and profound musk accord completes Tuxedo and lets the senses soar unrestrained.

Conclusion
Boundaries are meant to be crossed, at least partially. When wearing Tuxedo, one definitely does this. It is extremely androgynous, ruthlessly provocative, and noticeable! If one could compare this perfume, it would be with Bandit by Piguet. In this perfume, too, the boundaries between the genders blur into a total work of art. Wearing this scent requires a certain courage and self-confidence, both as a woman and as a man. As a woman, you will not be the sweet princess in Tuxedo in the evening, and as a man, you should enjoy a certain floral quality. Tuxedo radiates a very un-playful, serious, and deep eroticism that is rarely encountered. In my opinion, Tuxedo does not belong to the evening. It belongs more to where the night begins! Unfortunately, Tuxedo is no longer available, and if it is, then only for very high sums. I was very lucky to get a special size from back then, which is no larger than a mascara. Even this had already cost a small fortune. Which I can understand in hindsight! My special thanks go to the highly esteemed Andrula, without whom I would not have stumbled upon Tuxedo and become aware of it.

Dear A.
Thank you for that!

Can